BLKMGK Posted August 31, 2001 Share Posted August 31, 2001 Well, I thought I'd start a thread with some of the common "issues" I've found so far debugging this sucker. The trans was pretty well documented so I won't go there but here are some little things I've found. I'd be interested in hearing from others what little gotcha's they've found as well.. Slave cylinder. Yeah, the fitting popped. Switching to the OEM fitting will fix this I believe. Reverse lockout too stiff - now too weak. Careful spring selection will fix this but test before installing th etrans. I'll write this up ASAP on my site but for now get with me offline if you need detailspics. Rough idle, poor vacuum. Idling at 1500RPM and I'm pretty sure my cam isn't that radical! Seems I've got a leak in the back of the carb at the gasket. Tomorrow's project. Idle mixture probably rich, fuel floats a bit high. Turns out fuel pressure is right. Might have to jet this thing too. Brake pedal too soft, now too stiff. Original master was too small, now this one is fine but my vaccuum is low - no boost. (smack) Loud exhaust. I actually found part of the problem here tonight and it's NOT th emuffler. When the guy did my exhaust he mentioned that the one Flowtech header wasn't fully welded. Looking at the bottom colector flange I saw this was true. No biggie I figured, it'll seal. Tonight I discovered that NONE of the collector pipes appear welded at the bottom! It's loud as heck on the driver's side and there's exhaust flow shooting upwards straight out of the middle of the pipes It's like an open header on that side and really noticable when the engine starts. I'm on a header quest again! I may even have a friend make me a set. This set with straight plugs backs one plug straight into the header anyway so this is probably my ignition miss too... Lokar throttle cable keeps loosening at firewall and at carb. Cable stretched a little too. Make sure you size this cable a little long when you cut it BTW. Starter - JTR recomended OEM LT1 starter wasn't strong enough and wouldn't hot start. CVR starter fixed this for less money and doesn't grind. It's bigger but it gets a BIG thumb's up by me. I sincerely thank the member who told me it would fit! Timing marks on damper may not be right. Going to have to use a piston stop and a timing tape to fix this I think. If nothing I'll verify TDC and have a tape that tells me exactly what timing is when I hit it with a light. Timing may be causing idle and vaccuum problems too. Rear clunked when I first drove it. Seems some bonehead didn't tighten the mount 100% and relied on the impact to drive it home. Fixed with a wrench and some swearing. Misc leaks from valve covers and whatnot. SBC has too few valve cover bolts IMO. On my second set of gaskets with no relief in sight. May just RTV these suckers down! That's it so far. Seems long but except for the headers it's all fixable with tuning or a little tinkering! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted August 31, 2001 Share Posted August 31, 2001 Sounds like you are making good progress dude... I fought with a damn relay I bought today trying to figure out why it wasn't working. I'm not the most electrically inclinded person out there, but I thought a simple fuel pump relay was well within my skills. After scratching my head for about 30 minutes and not getting anywhere, I swapped in another one I had around. Yup, turned out the NEW relay was bad, and that I actually did know what I was doing. (love it when that happens) No point to this story except to say that just because its new, doesn't mean it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 31, 2001 Share Posted August 31, 2001 Sounds like you're having the typical teething problems is all. And it sounds like you're out there on the street having fun too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted August 31, 2001 Author Share Posted August 31, 2001 Quick update that I also posted elsewhere - th eOEM GM hose is NOT -4, nor is it -3. It's inside diameter is bigger than -4 but it's outside is smaller than what a -4 fitting expects Headed to the hydraulic shop today I think... Update: NAPA had the stuff to make lines with this size inside diameter but their stuff wants a MUCH bigger outside and couldn't crimp down this small. I may have to look to a race shop to crimp this line for me. MikeSCCA had a good one on the left coast do my brake lines - shop like that could probably do this as well. The end fitting doesn't appear "standard" but I want to hear that from an expert first before I believe it. [ August 31, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clint78z Posted September 1, 2001 Share Posted September 1, 2001 How about installing a new master cylinder only to discover that your flared end was cracked and leaked 1/2l of brake fluid down the frame rail It's not all that bad at least I know what to repair. Exhaust, and alignment is about the only major thing left on mine. A stock 220mm clutch will ensure a proper break in period. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 3, 2001 Author Share Posted September 3, 2001 Did some additional troubleshooting today. Damper appears to be correct. Initial timing, sans vacuum advance, is about 18 or so Lower, say around 10, leads to poor idle so this follows what you've seen. Fuel level at the floats was off and it's quite obvious that the engine is running on 7, possibly 6, cylinders. (sigh) This is due to the headers being so close and boots burning. When one of the boots is held away from the header engine speed picks up a good bit (duh). Last but not least - the secondaries aren't opening. This is a little scary as the car scoots real well on just the primaries and I bet an Iroc looking Camaro running like this So.. I believe that my steps will be headersmufflers, some new boots, possibly an ignition. At that point timing can probably be brought down and idle speed for sure. Jetting and troubleshooting the secondaries would be next. Yup, lot's of work to be done. Hopefully I won't have to recurve the distributor - I've only ever tried that once before many years ago and hated it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted September 4, 2001 Share Posted September 4, 2001 BLKMGK, just a thought on your idle speed: Sometimes a bigger cam needs more inital advance before you can get a decent idle. I had another project that idled like crap at way to high rpm, advanced the timing and could adjust it to a "reasonable" level. Don't forget to check the full advance, 2500-3000 might need to adjust some out in the dist. to avoid detonation. JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 5, 2001 Share Posted September 5, 2001 BLKMGK, Will be installing Sanderson QP 1000 headers tommorow as well as Borla XR-1 Sportsman Muffler to replace original worn out Scarab equipment. The Sanderson headers are beatuiful and the quaility is extroidinary. If you are interested, maybe I could run up to Manassas next week or the week after and you could look to see if Sanderson is the right choice for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted September 5, 2001 Share Posted September 5, 2001 MacDaddy, Do you know if those Sanderson headers will fit the JTR position? Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 5, 2001 Author Share Posted September 5, 2001 Cool, another local person! The Q's are cast right? 25lbsapiece as I recall (shiver). I went with the CC134s and they "should" be here tomorrow for install Friday. I will take pics etc. but I appreciate the offer. Heck, you're not far away! Come by anytime! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted September 5, 2001 Share Posted September 5, 2001 Some 'high heat' booties might be in order(Taylor etc)....I haven't burnt a wire since I installed mine, ~$50US I've paid. I gave my dad a set for father's day as his LT1 setup would benefit from them too. Bit pricey but cheap when looked at long term to protect the $$ wireset and potential hassles. I use dielectric silicone inside the plug boots (and many other ee parts)as well which keeps them quite happy I've found. I've got the booties leaning on headers etc without troubles. Still only 2-300ohm's resist. per wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 6, 2001 Share Posted September 6, 2001 QP 1000's 15 lbs each ceramic coated. These headers are shorties and from other comments that I have read in past months hee they are supposed to fit in the JTR position also, however, I do not have that knowledge but I am sure someone else does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted September 7, 2001 Share Posted September 7, 2001 About the cable, same problem I had. Getting a replacement is too expensive, so a little wandering around at Home Depot found me a replacement (any length cuz it was on a big spool) that is the exact same threaded steel cable inside the Lokar housing. Cost $2.50. I also got some cable clamps that work way better than the ones Lokar gives. If you absolutely don't need the braided hose that covers the throttle cable, then this is the best alternatve. Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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