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CLUTCH FAIL! Emergency...


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Okay, so last night, my tranny starting acting up. Clutch started to depressed way too easy, first was near impossible to put in gear, then reverse same story, but sounded and felt like clutch wasn't depressed (grinding/hitting gears). Was horrible!

 

Barely made it home, when the clutch completely went out. I left the car in 5th since exiting the freeway and cruised it to my parking spot.

 

I'm hoping I ca just replace the Clutch Cylinder? How do I do this?

Is this it?

ejxuw.jpg

 

Thanks..I need to fix it..it's my DD:(

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I'm not sure if I should answer this.....

 

Mmmkay no flamage today. [bTW you really need to search and this should be in the TROUBLESHOOTING section]

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=126151&highlight=clutch

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115090&highlight=clutch

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99785&highlight=clutch

http://images.asc.ohio-state.edu/is/image/eHistory/images/section_logo_search.jpg

 

The information is not hard to find....

 

Replace your slave cylinder first, it's usually the first thing to go out. It's about $15 at A/Z and takes about 15-20 minutes to change. If that doesn't work it's your clutch Master cylinder which is what you pictured.

 

The slave is on the passenger side of your tranny on the bottom. You need a ??? mm to take of the two bolts that hold the salve to the tranny bellhousing and a 8mm to bleed it. you will also need a friend to help you bleed it.

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haha the car i just bought did the same thing...im going to try bleeding it out but on the drive home i had to pump the piss out of the clutch to get anything and even with it fully depressed at times it wouldnt go into gear, not even rev matching and the trans is grinding....so new slave/4spd for her today or tomorrow

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ding...vatozone....i like oem lol but lifetime warranty does have its advantages.

 

just admit you are wrong and know nothing about z's and we'll let you off with a slap on the wrist and a slight warning =)

 

oh and while im at it...if you would be so kind pm me the # you use there so i can get me a new one i'd be very grateful, sisters getting the new car and trying to go as cheap as possible

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ding...vatozone....i like oem lol but lifetime warranty does have its advantages.

 

Yeah - I've had the 78's slave go out twice, only had to pay for one of them :)

 

just admit you are wrong and know nothing about z's and we'll let you off with a slap on the wrist and a slight warning =)

 

:hail: I'm so sorry!! Pleeze forgive me!

 

oh and while im at it...if you would be so kind pm me the # you use there so i can get me a new one i'd be very grateful, sisters getting the new car and trying to go as cheap as possible

 

Heh just go look it up on the website or give them a call. The slave isn't a problem, but the Master cylinder, well, that's a whole 'nother story all together:

 

You will need to transfer the rod that connects the pedal to the piston inside the remanned master cylinder, the one that comes on the A/Z unit is too short. Ask me how I know >_<

 

I tried another CMC and a Stainless Steel Clutch Line ordered from MSA and it still didn't work until I swapped the rod.

 

**edit** What??? You're sister's getting the Bob Sharp parts-loaded car?? I'll buy you a slave if you trade me valve covers!!!

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you will also need a friend to help you bleed it.

 

 

you don't necessarily do you? I would assume you could use the same "drip" method as you can for brakes, crack the bleeder valve. let it just drip for a while. make sure your master doesn't run dry or you will just suck air back in of course. It also flushes your lines really well as all the new fluid runs through, even though regular bleeding will do this. Just a thought

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The way i've always bled brakes, is pump it till it has good pressure, hold, crack the bleeder so it pisses, crack it shut, pump again. Though, a clutch doesn't have a mechanical stopping point like brakes do. Hmmm...

 

 

How exactly do you hold it? haha, You must be rather tall, the brake calipers and the pedal are quite far away. This is the method I would use with help, its normally very successful, there are many ways, you can put nylon tubing on the bleeder, and put it in your brake fluid, and just pump, it will push air out, but only suck brake fluid back in. there are NUMEROUS ways to bleed brakes etc, everybody may have their own, some need more than 1 person others dont

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How exactly do you hold it? haha, You must be rather tall, the brake calipers and the pedal are quite far away. This is the method I would use with help, its normally very successful, there are many ways, you can put nylon tubing on the bleeder, and put it in your brake fluid, and just pump, it will push air out, but only suck brake fluid back in. there are NUMEROUS ways to bleed brakes etc, everybody may have their own, some need more than 1 person others dont

who ever said I'd do it on my own? lmao. I get one of my friends to do all the hard work and I just sit there shouting at them to pump the brakes or hold it. They get all the sweat, and I sit there on my ass turning a little wrench back and forth.

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If you swap out either the master or slave cylinder, you should replace the other one as well. The parts are cheap and the combination of an old unit plus a new unit usually results in the failure of the old unit shortly.

 

Mighty-vacs are nice but I have not had much luck with it on either my brakes or clutch. You can bleed your brakes and clutch by yourself. It is rather easy. Just hit your local parts store and pick up the one-man bleeder kit for $6. Its just a small bottle, tubing and a magnet.

 

Was there any pressure on the clutch at all? Do you still have fluid in your clutch master cylinder?

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One man bleeding on the cheap....

Put a clear hose on the bleeder and stick the other end in a bottle of old brake fluid and crack the bleeder open. Fill master with fresh fluid. Pump pedal about 10 times. Check clear hose for air bubbles. If there are bubbles, fill master with fluid and continue pumping until clear fluid and no bubbles are in the clear hose. Close bleeder. Remove hose, fill master and your good to go.

This works real well for flushing or bleeding of either brake or clutch systems.

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