Sanderson/JTR headers, gasket or no gasket?

[gvincent]

Hi Curious as to how many ended up using a gasket with their Sanderson headers.

I have the CC105 "D" port for the LT1 motor, they sealed with no leaks on the Aluminum head LT1, but then I never got a chance to drive that motor, but on the Iron Head LT1 they leak really bad and I am going to have to pull them off and use a real gasket or re-do the RTV gasket. (Driving the knock sensor crazy I think)

 

How many just used the 1/8" Permatex Hi Temp RTV that Sanderson reccomends and how many used a real gasket and if so whose gasket did you use and if you actually doubled up used more than 1 gasket per side.

Thanks,

Greg

[hoov100]

why would you use RTV silicone as an exhaust manifold gasket?

 

If it makes any difference i have always liked using the reusable aluminum ones from autozone.

[deja]

I never liked Sanderson's instructions of using RTV. I went with Earl's Performance 29DA3BERL from Summit, expensive but they work great.

[gvincent]

I never liked Sanderson's instructions of using RTV. I went with Earl's Performance 29DA3BERL from Summit, expensive but they work great.

 

Hi Deja, thanks,

I went and ordered a set from Amazon.com for $35

I have a feeling this will help clear up my code 43 Knock sensor, with the leaking headers I am sure some of the 9000 knocks had to do with the exhaust leaks, I am sure the O2 sensors will be happier also.

I drilled and mounted the knock sensor on the JTR adaptor plate.

Now to get cylinders 3&4 to fire.

 

Thanks again,

Greg

[deja]

I talked to several gearheads here and they all reccomended the Earls gaskets. You can buy just the gasket part that will snap into the aluminum frames if you ever need to pull the headers for some reason.

Good luck on the 3-4 issue. I would try swaping some plug wires and/or the injectors like someone above said. Make sure the wires are really seated on the opti too, I know those can be a bitch to seat.

 

 

Hi Deja, thanks,

I went and ordered a set from Amazon.com for $35

I have a feeling this will help clear up my code 43 Knock sensor, with the leaking headers I am sure some of the 9000 knocks had to do with the exhaust leaks, I am sure the O2 sensors will be happier also.

I drilled and mounted the knock sensor on the JTR adaptor plate.

Now to get cylinders 3&4 to fire.

 

Thanks again,

Greg

[gvincent]

I talked to several gearheads here and they all reccomended the Earls gaskets. You can buy just the gasket part that will snap into the aluminum frames if you ever need to pull the headers for some reason.

Good luck on the 3-4 issue. I would try swaping some plug wires and/or the injectors like someone above said. Make sure the wires are really seated on the opti too, I know those can be a bitch to seat.

 

Thanks Deja,

I installed the header gaskets, they seem to work great! thanks for the advice.

It was a pain doing the passenger side but I got it done without having to remove the alternator, it took a little creativity in having only enough room to get 1 arm in there.

 

Greg

[deja]

LOL, working on these engines can be a bitch. Seems like every time you want to get something off you have to take two other things off first. Even where they put the belt tensioner makes you wonder what the GM engineers were smoking when they planned this one!!! BTW I have 150 miles on my engine now and I just went back in to see if the header bolts needed retightening...NOPE they are still tight.

 

Dale

 

 

Thanks Deja,

I installed the header gaskets, they seem to work great! thanks for the advice.

It was a pain doing the passenger side but I got it done without having to remove the alternator, it took a little creativity in having only enough room to get 1 arm in there.

 

Greg