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completely confused... starter wont work!


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hey guys, so i just for the third time swapped in a l28et in my car. i just finished the wiring and the fuel pump and everything is working fine.

 

i was ready to start the engine but when i cranked it the started felt like it lost grip of the fly wheel. I tried to crank it again and the starter isnt making contact with anything, it just keeps spinning. i thought maybe it was because of low battery(which shouldn't be the problem) so i hooked up some jumper cables to a running car and still the same thing. so then i got one of my extra starters, when i put it in the same thing.

 

I already turned the crank over with a socke wrench by the crank pulley, and it was turning fine. i cant figure out why my starter wont turn the engine.

 

note: i built this block so i put on the head plus timing and the clutch and fly wheel on.

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I was ready to start the engine but when I cranked it the started felt like it lost grip of the fly wheel. I tried to crank it again and the starter isnt making contact with anything, it just keeps spinning. i thought maybe it was because of low battery(which shouldn't be the problem) so I hooked up some jumper cables to a running car and still the same thing. So then I got one of my extra starters, when I put it in the same thing.

 

 

You can take the starters to AutoZone and test them to see if they are actually engaging. It's unlikely that two went bad but it will rule out the starters being the issue.

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well i have tried three starters now, and i know two of them worked for sure, in fact i was using one of the yesterday with no problems...im just charging my battery now in hopes that its the problem:( is there anything else i could be missing guys?

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if you think its a power issue, check your pos/neg cables for corrosion too. I couldn't for the life of me figure out why i had little or now power and thought it was the battery but the cables had corroded underneath the insulation.

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ok so i think turboHLS30 is right, i checked the clearance between the teeth on the flywheel and block and is 1/2 inch, while on my non turbo lock its a 1/4 of an inch.

 

what did i do wrong? i torqued the bolts to the flywheel to spec. i dont get how its sitting back to far, anyone know what went wrong?

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ok so i think turboHLS30 is right, i checked the clearance between the teeth on the flywheel and block and is 1/2 inch, while on my non turbo lock its a 1/4 of an inch.

 

what did i do wrong? i torqued the bolts to the flywheel to spec. i dont get how its sitting back to far, anyone know what went wrong?

 

On automatic cars there is a round plate on the back of the crank - did you take it off or leave it on?

 

IIRC It looked to be about 1/4" thick. :shock:

 

The idea popped into my head earlier but I didn't want to suggest pulling the tranny without a good reason to.

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On automatic cars there is a round plate on the back of the crank - did you take it off or leave it on?

 

IIRC It looked to be about 1/4" thick. :shock:

 

The idea popped into my head earlier but I didn't want to suggest pulling the tranny without a good reason to.

 

how do i remove the round plate, im just wondering because i didnt notice it so i dont know what it looks like.

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Turn the flywheel around?? How does that work? Where would the clutch go?.... The auto spacer plate looks like the end of the crank itself. You will have to remove the tranny and flywheel to see if is on there.

 

thank you, i kept thinking the same thing to myself. hey so uh, ive dropped the tranny a couple of times but, both times i drained the fluid. i dont really want to have to do that again. have you guys have any luck with dropping the tanny with out having to drain it first. i don't want the drive shaft to accidentally slip out and cover my driveway with fluid. any quick opinions on this would be great as i want to do this in a couple of hours. thanks

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Let's hope not. Just do all that painful work to get to the clutch, take off the clutch, remove plate, reverse steps. Go play. But... before you go through that agonizing task, take the starters and make sure the bendix's check out. That's the little clutch that moves the starter gear to engage the ring gear.

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have you guys have any luck with dropping the tanny with out having to drain it first.

 

 

Get a second drive shaft good or bad, it does not matter. Cut the front part of the drive shaft off (the part that fits into the transmission). Leave the front U joint in place. It can be used as a handle. Remove your good drive line. Insert your new "transmission plug/tool" into the transmission and secure it in place. You can now drop the tranny with out loosing and tranny fluid.

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