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stravi757

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Everything posted by stravi757

  1. Thanks for posting, I just signed on looking for exactly this. any idea what kind of sale ttt is gonna have?
  2. I pulled them out, they were NOT good for my build. IMO these are for a car you intend to race/autocross. I am looking into designing a new mount for the transmission as the stock insulator does a good job of reducing vibration in the car, but it has too much give at the same time.
  3. This is a good idea to always keep in mind! You can probably find a lot of uses out of it. So how did it feel to run one poly and one stock mount compared to both poly? Is that combo what you still are running? Im interested in buy a set. how much do you want for them. You can pm me details. I did install these types of mounts in a z once(not mine) and had the same issue with fittment. How did they feel/how are they holding up? I just figured they weren't even worth trying. But maybe I was wrong. I mean, the Nissan OEM ones start to flex more over time fairly quick anyway. The rubber on them will always separate from the sides on them...
  4. We will find out soon! Is there anything you have tried I havent mentioned? Whoa. is your set the poly or rubber style. Come to think now I probably would prefer the rubber, but would give the poly a shot too. Did you ever run them? how did they feel? On their website they have this posted. https://www.mckinneymotorsports.com/prod_motor+mount+styles So it looks like these are options to swap/replace between rubber, poly, semi solid poly, and aluminum.
  5. Thought I would share this with everyone. 1978 280z l28 280zx 5speed, Stock EFI(for now) To give a little back story. I daily drive my 280z 19878, so comfort/quality drivability is important to me. As we all know the Z cars are known for having a "clunk". After replacing everything from the motor mounts to the half shafts, the car drove very well. I was enjoying life for a while. But as I continued the drive my car more and more, I found myself dissatisfied with the drive quality again. So I began looking for more things to change. I went ahead and installed 350z seats, those made a huge difference. After that I continued to try more things out. -I did the Technoversions front diff mount https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html -Polyurethane bushings on everything excluding the rear inner control arms, and the TC rods -3.9 SUBARU R180 LSD This is pretty much what i have done so far, and dont get me wrong, the car drives really well. But I still feel kick between On and Off throttle that gets on my nerves a little bit. So My next idea is, filling in the stock transmission mount with Liquid urethane http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/diymmi I used a new Nissan mount. Im waiting a couple more days for it to cure, and then will install and post results. They are real soft stock, so we will see how much of a difference this makes. I know I can see my shift rod move a good amount when giving the car gas. After this my next things in line are Lokar cable throttle, and motor mounts. I bought the cable throttle already but Im still working on how I will install it. I would like to use KTM's design, But I haven't figured out how to put together a kit myself, or to see if KTM still has one laying around for sale http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/276091-throttle-cable-conversion-kit-interest-does-not-require-different-throttle-body.html Im sure this will be a huge improvement also! As Far as motor mounts. Right now I am running New oem. I tried using https://silverproject.eu/en/shop/nissan/solid-engine-mounts-for-datsun-240z-260z-nissan-s30/ But they are a little rough, as my dash was vibrating at idle. But they did feel smooth while driving. I may give them another shot, or maybe try using one solid mount and one rubber? I really wanted to try the Mckinney Poly mounts, But Those are NLA So I Hope this helps anyone looking to solve or improve their Z's drive quality. And If anyone has any tips or advice, please share! would love to hear feedback, Ideas or things you have tried as well. UPDATE: I installed and ram the urethane filled mount. It was a disappointment for what I was trying to achieve. There was to harsh of vibration coming into the car from it. Its not so bad while driving the car once your going 25mph+. But at low speed, especially starting out in first gear, it vibrates a good amount throughout the bell housing. It felt a little like there was a mild missfire on a cylinder. Maybe if I had dynomat installed it could have helped out, but it its a fairly harsh vibration. Its did improve the throttle response on acceleration though. I could really tell when stepping on the gas in 3rd gear. UPDATE: December 3, 2018. After almost 8 months of waiting I finally got the rubber style motor mount insulators(which they sell still) from Mckinney Motosports to pair with their 240z-280zx motor mount set-up(which is NLA) Wow! They are amazing. I had in my head an idea of what they would feel like, and they are better. They was no significant increase in vibration at idle(silverproject mounts shook the dash) or at driving speed. The throttle response of the car is much better on acceleration, and it feels very smooth on deceleration 2nd gear and up. I havent driven on them too much yet, so Ill add more details on them as I put more miles but four thumbs up on these!!!!!! Thanks z240 for selling me your Extra set!
  6. I may have to look into a different companys rear package to use the willwood E-brake caliper on the rear it looks like. thanks for sharing this. So AZC has made two styles of caliper brackets. The first version was using AZC's self made E-brake calipers(which you say they never produced the caliper itself). The Second version caliper bracket AZC claims to have uses a willwood E-brake. AZC sold me the rear willwood E-brake calipers but said they did not have the Brackets to use them in stock yet. I called AZC a couple times and they keep saying the will be in stock shortly but they still havent got them.
  7. Arizonazcar doesn't have the rear caliper bracket which includes the parking brake caliper in stock. If anyone has it for sale let me know. I am also interested in either buying or possibly trading for 280z front rotor centers. Mine are for a 240z. NOTE: AZC has made two types of rear caliper brackets. need the second version which uses the Willwood style parking brake caliper.
  8. Both brake wires should be looming right by the brake light switch. If the wires arent in sight, Maybe you might want to take the dash out, who knows what other mysteries could be under there! Have a wiring diagram?
  9. IMO Id keep my brakes stock, or go willwood setup. I don't see much value going the Toyota caliper route.
  10. still looking. anyone have a set of z therapy for sale?
  11. looking for a pair of good condition working SU's or newly rebuilt. 925-487-9302 text
  12. Thanks for the response, Im going to continue to watch videos on tracking down short circuits, up my electrical knowledge! See If i can give some better descriptions to solve this.
  13. Thanks for the shared link, I watched a couple of that guys videos and another video On "voltage drop" After watching the videos which were informative, including the one on "voltage drop" I still am not finding anyone describing the voltage reading I am getting on my multimeter. Yea Im not proud of my parts replacement strategy, I know its not the proper way. But I do have spares of every part laying around, so I just gave it a shot. I really need to work at better describing the problem forsure. Its honestly been a while since I have been on forums, I am pretty rusty at describing in words what My problem has been. Ive done so many things, I guess I am struggling when I write, where to even start. So thanks for letting me know what errors Im posts descriptions. To answer the statement you left me to ponder above. The alternator has not quit charging(although two have died). I have a old spare one in the car right now i just threw on. The battery reads 14.4V when running. But the voltage starts jumping all over the place. So the voltage will jump from 14.4 to 8v, It will go back to 14.4 then 10.7. It will just keep doing this and get worse the longer I run the engine, until the engine eventually dies. When I disconnect the alternator, the battery reading goes to 12.6. The voltage will continue to jump as described above I will make a video to show what i am trying to describe.
  14. My car hasn't been running for a while now, so I cant say. But the oem mounts weren't bad. They were worn from when they were new. And I could feel noticeable play in the drivetrain causing a drag/and clunk feeling between up and downshifting. Most Z people probably wouldn't think much of it since these cars are prone to having really severe "Clunk" issues. But I daily drive mine, and it is really noticeable to me, even if its slight. You can see on the stock mounts the rubber separates from the side on the metal quite quick, causing more engine movement.
  15. okay made a few changes to the post. It runs for about ten minutes until it dies. when you start it back up after that, it dies quicker each time. Yes I have tried different multimeter, and they read normal on my other cars I currently do not have the dash board installed. But when it was a few weeks ago, the reading on the voltage gauge read steady at 12v(that was with the alternator disconnected) There is definitely something off with the system electrically. Two alternators have died. And also as the voltage reading begins to jump faster and faster on the multimeter, you can hear the injectors make a louder and louder humming noise that sounds like they are being starved of power.
  16. Hey guys. Thanks for tips on what details you need. My car is a 78 280z. Whole car is BONE STOCK, including wiring. Yes I have the FSM, I have spent hours tacking down the wires on paper with the help of friends. Z240- I have simplified the system as much as I could. I removed any unnecessary component that isn't needed to make the engine run. I disconnected the alternator I only had things hooked up like the Fuel pump Ignition system EFI set-up List of items ive swapped out with spares include/or new Starter Alternator Coil Transistor unit Distributor Efi harness Ecu Engine sensors Fuel pump Ignition switch Main harness Engine harness Both battery cables Battery All relays Fusible links I have spent over 100 hours trying to figure out what the problem is and have gotten nowhere still. I have tried reading up on diagnosing electrical issues, but I am struggling to find information on what could be causing the voltage to drop sporadically. really been feeling defeated this past couple months.
  17. Hey guys I am really struggling to solve this electrical issue and dont have enough knowledge to figure this one out by myself. I had an alternator go out initially. I just replaced it as it was very old so It seemed normal that it was its day. a couple days later the replacement alternator goes bad too. After poking around I put a multimeter on the battery to see if the second alternator was putting out any charge. the multimeter reading was odd. It will read 12.xx volts when you start the engine, then the reading will start jumping all over the place 7v, 3v 12v 8v It jumps constantly to random numbers ranging from 0.5v-12.5v and becomes more sporadic the longer the engine runs. I thought I would start with bad grounding so I replaced both battery cables and the battery with a spare. no luck I began replacing all kinds of parts since I have spares of EVERYTHING an nothing has fixed the issue I have now replaced the entire wiring harness including the engine harness, efi harness, and main harness fuel pump alt entire ignition system starter all relays cleaned and doubled up grounds removed/unplugged all accessories and much more I just keep getting this sporadic voltage reading that worsens the longer the engine runs, until the motor eventually dies(roughy 10 minutes). I dont know what the next step to take is with electrical problems, you guys got any ideas where to start with a voltage problem like this??
  18. Im looking for a pair of Stock replacement motor mounts made by Mckinneymotorsports They don't make them anymore and I really want to try out of set of them I Will take either their rubber ones or poly.
  19. Hey I just bought a used arizonazcar brake kit. And I don't know if the front brake set-up I got is for a 240z or 280z. Can anyone who knows tell me which rotor centers I have? Or the thickness of the rotor centers they have on their car. I would really appreciate it!
  20. So I Bought the silverproject mounts already and installed them light night. They make a very noticeable difference in how the car drives. The power from the car is much more responsive and smooth. It really reduced the drivetrain play these cars have common issues with. This difference was very obvious with ON or OFF throttle. As far as noise goes. I can feel a harsh vibration when turning the starter(no big deal🙂). But when the engine was idling(about 800rpm) the whole car was very noisy and the dash was vibrating(this is a big deal☹️). The Noise is over the TOP, but if your car is a DD or driven with comfort in mind, I would consider it too loud. When it came to noise level at cruising speeds, I couldn't tell any difference significantly in noise level which is a positive. I HAVE TO KEEP DRIVING ON THEM TO SEE HOW I WILL FEEL IN THE LONG RUN because I do drive my Z regularly. The vibration at idle was non existent when the engine was warming up(1,200-1,300rpm). So I will try raising my idle to 900-950rpm to see if that solves the idle vibration issue. Some extra info on my set-up: I was running new oem mounts and they were already showing alot of wear after about six months, they were running fine for DD but disappointing for spirited driving. I have also done the following to my Z -New transmission insulator -Poly transmission crossmember bushing -New oem diff mount -Poly mustache bar bushing
  21. Would really like to hear a review of how these feel in the car as well. I am looking at buying a set too!
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