Danno74Z Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 Hey guys can you help me on how you deleted the power steering pump on your LS1's. I can't seem to find a good link here or anywhere else on how to do it. I know some have gutted the pump but there has to be a alternative to that. I saw Dale's method up here but I tried that method but got interference issues with the pulleys and bolt heads. With all the LS1 swaps can someone help me out on this issue. THANKS.................. Please some pictures or links to them. Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 Here ya go http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/999575-dont-want-power-steering-c-my-ls1-swap.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 Mark, I have seen this link before - Thanks. I looked at the pop n wood setup (Dale's original) and I get interference behind the idler pulley rubbing the bracket and the belt touching the lower alt bolt. In the picture you can see he had to do some grinding. I'm looking for some other setups if they exist. What did you do? Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 I used the subaru PS rack and kept the pump. 285's and skinny arms just don't mix! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 Mark, spill it! does the steering shaft clear the JCI mount which I am hoping you are using? Danno, Link me to Dale's old post. I have his car now and can help you understand what is on the car now. Actually, I have just installed the JCI AC compressor mounting kit and was having a little problem with alignment but the belt fits fine. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 (edited) I only run an alternator and the water pump in my rx7. Here is what I did just to add to the mix. Edited September 3, 2009 by mobythevan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 The JCI kit does not clear the subaru rack. I made the mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 Thanks for all the input. I just ordered a LS1 LS2 LS6 LS7 Tensioner Pulley and I'm going to get the NAPA 551/4" recommended belt. To make it work in my case I had to remove a little aluminum from the alt. bracket and put a small shim (.5mm thick) behind the pulley. All seem fine clearance wise on all the alt. bolts too once I stretched the old belt as a trial fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zgeezer Posted September 4, 2009 Share Posted September 4, 2009 Thanks for all the input. I just ordered a LS1 LS2 LS6 LS7 Tensioner Pulley and I'm going to get the NAPA 551/4" recommended belt. To make it work in my case I had to remove a little aluminum from the alt. bracket and put a small shim (.5mm thick) behind the pulley. All seem fine clearance wise on all the alt. bolts too once I stretched the old belt as a trial fit. Here's a company that sells neat passenger side a/c brackets for all Gen III engines, including the trucks. Check out the driver's side alternator (with and without p/s). Note the alternator is mounted in the same position as Corvettes... above the p/s. The prices appear reasonable. Anyone try one yet? http://www.kwikperf.com/products.html g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted September 4, 2009 Author Share Posted September 4, 2009 ZGeezer, A while back I saw this bracket and did not want take the chance of it not working in the Z's tight engine compartment. Also I doubt they would take it back after one installed it and also spending $167 + shipping and a 6 rib belt = $200 or more. The alternative method that Mark showed costs about $40 at the most - New belt and a 6 rib tensioner pulley. I already picked up the belt from NAPA and it fit perfectly. For the moment I have the smooth pulley up on the tensioner and made the pulley swap as a trial fit. The belt tension is right in the middle of the tensioner range like the original belt and good pulley contact with the water pump. Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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