LTx vs. LSx in z32

[hawaiifiveoh]

With the short searching I've been doing, I found that a few people were saying a LT1 would fit "easier" than a LSx motor. Given the similar capablilities of the lt and ls, anyone feel like shedding a little bit more light on this? And is there any engine bay room difference between a 2+0 and a 2+2? I'd like how the 2+0 looks better, but whatever fits best will work.

[BRAAP]

Engine bay is is the same between the Z-32 coupe and Z-32 short bus, er.. 2+2.

 

Personally, I feel the LT would fit a little easier than the LSx, mainly because the sheet-metal pan is easier to DIY modify vs the cast aluminum. Aside from that, its really more of a personal preference. Both engines are excellent V-8's, they each have their respective pros and cons. Either power-plant will deliver big grins when the loud pedal is mashed!

 

If you haven't purchased one yet, the 2+2's seem to be going for noticeably less $$$ than the coupes and they also seem to be more plentiful in the classifieds. As 2+2 Z cars go, the Z-32 is the hardest to distinguish, coupe vs 2+2, the general public can't tell them apart, mostly only discerning Z-car owners can...

 

 

 

[hawaiifiveoh]

When I first started looking, I didn't know there was a difference, but yes, would definitely rather prefer a coupe. And iirc, you were the one that I saw while reading up on this. And as far as a motor goes, no way I'm wanting a LS1, too many other ls motors with similar capabilities for waaaay cheaper.

 

Has anyone "made their own interior", and just cut whatever needed, etc? Use the original dash, but use all new gauges, possibly just use the cluster from another vehicle along with the drivetrain swap.

[Slammed68]

Just LQ4 swap it, and dont look back. I dont see any reason why the LT1 junk would fit better than an LS based motor. You will regret going LT motor once you want power and dont feel like changing opti-spark - the plusses of an LS motor are endless.

[dts300z]

Just LQ4 swap it, and dont look back. I dont see any reason why the LT1 junk would fit better than an LS based motor. You will regret going LT motor once you want power and dont feel like changing opti-spark - the plusses of an LS motor are endless.

 

Just a little FYI the LT1 actually does fit better and it is easier to work with. You have a pretty one sided post there. I understand people have opinions and thats fine but to basically say that the LT1 doesn't or can't potentially make power is silly. There is nothing wrong with the opti-spark, it's not an engineering icon but it works rather well. Yes, it has its problems like any other distributer but there are several solutions for that out there i.e. standalone with a trigger wheel and some people are incorporating the LSx computer / harness with them now.

 

People did make horsepower / torque before the LSx engine. The LSx engine is a great power plant so don't take this the wrong way I'm just trying to make it very clear every engine has its pros and cons.

[dts300z]

When I first started looking, I didn't know there was a difference, but yes, would definitely rather prefer a coupe. And iirc, you were the one that I saw while reading up on this. And as far as a motor goes, no way I'm wanting a LS1, too many other ls motors with similar capabilities for waaaay cheaper.

 

Has anyone "made their own interior", and just cut whatever needed, etc? Use the original dash, but use all new gauges, possibly just use the cluster from another vehicle along with the drivetrain swap.

 

If you look in the z32 section there is a sticky that has alot of useful information that will aid you in making your decision. There are several links to many build threads in there.

 

Good luck and let me know if I can be of assistance!

 

Dan

 

link

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150821

Edited September 16, 2009 by dts300z
added link

[Bartman]

I don't know what you're planning for mounts, but LTx engines use the same setup as any other SBC, while LSx engines will require a different setup.

 

LSx engines are nice, but LTx engines definitely respond well to modifications as well. Mine has a couple of goodies and makes about 400 RWHP. Probably more since I had low fuel pressure when I dyno'ed it.

[hawaiifiveoh]

If you look in the z32 section there is a sticky that has alot of useful information that will aid you in making your decision. There are several links to many build threads in there.

 

Good luck and let me know if I can be of assistance!

 

Dan

 

link

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150821

 

Definitely a good link, thanks. I'm assuming that people are using the 300zx rear end along with this, and had a few ?'s about it...how strong is it, a custom driveshaft would almost definitely be needed if I'm right, and how strong are the axles? And again, how much of the interior will change, if anything, I think it'd almost be easier to re-do the interior all together. (buy black plastic "sheets", cut to fit how I want it to look, make a dash with all new gauges, etc.)

 

When I'm done with this, I'm not gonna be shooting for crazy numbers, just full bolt on, cam/intake/possibly a set of heads, but unlikely.

[deja]

I am running a LT1. If I had the money I might have attempted the LS1 swap but the engines alone are twice the price and the swap kit is more. If you are planning a street car you can get all the HP you need from the LT1, look at Bartman and jbc3 signatures. My old engine was stock except for a cold air inlet and the car turned 12.9 in the quarter. My new engine has a LT4 cam kit so I am expecting better results.

As far as interior changes there really isn't much you HAVE to do beyond wiring. I decided the old 280Z wiring was problematic and ripped every wire out and swapped in a complete Z28 wiring harness. I used a TransAm gauge cluster in a custom built dash.

[dts300z]

Definitely a good link, thanks. I'm assuming that people are using the 300zx rear end along with this, and had a few ?'s about it...how strong is it, a custom driveshaft would almost definitely be needed if I'm right, and how strong are the axles? And again, how much of the interior will change, if anything, I think it'd almost be easier to re-do the interior all together. (buy black plastic "sheets", cut to fit how I want it to look, make a dash with all new gauges, etc.)

 

When I'm done with this, I'm not gonna be shooting for crazy numbers, just full bolt on, cam/intake/possibly a set of heads, but unlikely.

 

Yea your going to need a custom drive shaft along with custom mounts. There is no right or wrong way to do this swap as I have done it without modifying the firewall / transmission tunnel and my current setup now.

 

The axles are pretty strong. I haven't broke one yet so we will see. The rear end is moderate in my opinion. I have broken 1 so far put that was after 140k miles and alot of track visits with ET streets with a 6 speed. I would recomend an auto if your going to have a lot of track use. A manual is good for toying around but really puts a beating on the rear end. It is truley a fun car though and it really hooks on the factory suspension at the track. I was cutting consistant 1.60 60' times with a manual. I expect when I get the bugs worked out of my current setup I will see a good drop in those times.

 

Click on the build thread link in my sig and that should give you a good idea of what it takes to do the swap. You will be able to retain all the factory interior so no worries there.

[hawaiifiveoh]

Yea your going to need a custom drive shaft along with custom mounts. There is no right or wrong way to do this swap as I have done it without modifying the firewall / transmission tunnel and my current setup now.

 

The axles are pretty strong. I haven't broke one yet so we will see. The rear end is moderate in my opinion. I have broken 1 so far put that was after 140k miles and alot of track visits with ET streets with a 6 speed. I would recomend an auto if your going to have a lot of track use. A manual is good for toying around but really puts a beating on the rear end. It is truley a fun car though and it really hooks on the factory suspension at the track. I was cutting consistant 1.60 60' times with a manual. I expect when I get the bugs worked out of my current setup I will see a good drop in those times.

 

Click on the build thread link in my sig and that should give you a good idea of what it takes to do the swap. You will be able to retain all the factory interior so no worries there.

 

I'm undecided as far as a transmission choice, but a t56 is most likely what I'd like to end up with, auto's are consistent, cheaper in the long run, but I want something I'll enjoy driving all the time. I wouldn't mind an lt1, but with the availability/power capabilities of the 5.3 over it, it's a tough choice. I also found a nice n/a shell for $800, has everything in it, but the motor is blown. Probably worth it, but I'm gonna make sure this is the route I want to go instead of buying a ♥♥♥♥ ton of stuff, then backing out of the project.

[hawaiifiveoh]

I am running a LT1. If I had the money I might have attempted the LS1 swap but the engines alone are twice the price and the swap kit is more. If you are planning a street car you can get all the HP you need from the LT1, look at Bartman and jbc3 signatures. My old engine was stock except for a cold air inlet and the car turned 12.9 in the quarter. My new engine has a LT4 cam kit so I am expecting better results.

As far as interior changes there really isn't much you HAVE to do beyond wiring. I decided the old 280Z wiring was problematic and ripped every wire out and swapped in a complete Z28 wiring harness. I used a TransAm gauge cluster in a custom built dash.

 

That dash is about exactly what I was looking for, although it's not in a z32. If anything, I have quite a few buddies that weld, and I can try to make a rough shape with cardboard, fab the real thing up with steel sheets, then cover it with the plastic so it looks legit.

[deja]

Its a 280Z but the theory is the same. I took the stock dash, welded panels where I wanted them (make sure you can get the cluster out after the dash is installed) and covered it all with fiberglass. BTW if you're thinking of using the TransAm gauge cluster be warned that the Camaro harness and the Firebird harness are not the same. Actually the wiring is the same but the cluster connector is different. I found that out the hard way and had to swap 32 wires!!

 

 

That dash is about exactly what I was looking for, although it's not in a z32. If anything, I have quite a few buddies that weld, and I can try to make a rough shape with cardboard, fab the real thing up with steel sheets, then cover it with the plastic so it looks legit.

[Lighft01]

LS1, you will be happier...Im am def. biased but i have known people who have owned both ls1 and lt1's and swear they would never go back to lt1. Optisparks are a pain in the but to change in a trans am, i would imagine its a little tighter in a ZX. Power wise the ls1 has more potential i think, just a better designed motor. The lt1 is based off every old sbc youve ever seen. Friend of mine likes to say its closer to a tpi than an LSx. Either way your going to have fun in it....Personally if you have the money go LSx all the way. If you are looking for an iron block go LQ9, has a better rotating assembly, or so ive heard ,than the LQ4.

[hawaiifiveoh]

This may seem like a stupid question, but as far as a pedal assembly goes, what did you guys use? I'm assuming the pedals that were in the car with modified cables, but just curious.

[Lighft01]

Using the factory pedals, just modified the throttle cable to hook up on the other side. used an f-body clutch master, and factory brake booster.

[hawaiifiveoh]

Thanks, and would anyone know the size difference externally between the 5.3 and the 6.0? Really really am starting to look more towards the 6.0 side of things.

[BRAAP]

Thanks, and would anyone know the size difference externally between the 5.3 and the 6.0? Really really am starting to look more towards the 6.0 side of things.

 

4 .8, 5.3, 5.7, 6.0, 6.2 and even the 7.0 all share the same external dimensions and foot print in regards to the bellhousing and engine mounts. I.e., if a 5.3 is in the vehicle and running, the 6.0L bolts right in place of the 5.3, as does the 4.8, 5.7, 7.0, etc. Just be sure you keep all the accy drive components, intake manifold, etc in the vehicle getting the swap as that is where the differences lie.

 

Hope that helps,

Paul

Edited September 23, 2009 by BRAAP

[rsicard]

Hawiifiveo: I would seriously look at a LT-1 or LT-4 and get is for cheap money. Then find a T56 to join up with it. Rebuild the LT-1 or LT-4 to a stroker 383 cu in for about 6.3 Liters. Use SCAT crank, rods and SRP Pro Pistons. Then purchase AFR-195 heads for it and a good intake manifold, bigger fuel injectors, harness and computer. This should cost less than a good 6.0 liter LS engine and yield MORE HP and Torque.

[hawaiifiveoh]

Wow, I'm really liking this forum so far, thanks BRAAP, and rsicard - That's still a pretty good possibility, but the lq4 just seems like a damn good motor with plenty to work with. From what I read up on, it's pretty hard to match the responsiveness to mods that it has. I've seen lt1's and 5.3's go for about the same price, lt1s are a little easier to find for a decent price, but still, the lt just isn't as responsive. I'm gonna try to go through a bunch of parts, etc and see what each seperate motor would truly cost to see what my best option would be. I don't mind saving up a little bit more for something better at this point. I've blown too much money to really want to throw it all away just because it's cheaper to start with. Thanks for all the input guys, pricing lists to come, maybe I can provide a bit of input to the forum.