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Mislocated Diff w/ Arizona Z moustache bar


burntread

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I have a '71 240 where I am trying to get an R200 LSD into. I purchased the Arizona Z moustache bar and had the front diff crossmember modified so as to move it forward to mount up to the body.

So here is the problem, the setup is too short! :banghead: I raised the diff, mounted the moustache bar, went to the diff nose to bolt it to the car and it is about an inch away from the mount holes (aft) on the car. In frustration, I took the diff out, unbolted the crossmember and mounted it to the car so I could install the control arms. Any ideas as to why this is? Also, any thoughts on how to remedy? If need be, I could remount the diff and take some photos (but I wouldn't be thrilled). Thanks!

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sounds to me like the azc bar works only for the later or series II 240z model and up as the early or series I 240z diff was located futher forward. the later models they moved it rearward to correct the angles it put on the halfshafts.

 

i know evilc ran into a problem with the ttt front mount on his series I z and had to modify it to work.

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^^^^

 

sounds to me like the azc bar works only for the later or series II 240z model and up as the early or series I 240z diff was located futher forward. the later models they moved it rearward to correct the angles it put on the halfshafts.

 

This is correct the Series 1 cars did have the dif mounted further forward.

 

Might want to contact Dave at AZZC.

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dsommer, the AZC moustache bar only seems to go one way and that is with the ears forward.

JMortensen, with the R200 and AZC moustache bar installed into my Series I, the front diff crossmember doesn't match up to the body mounting location. It is about an inch short and doesn't reach. If I mount the diff by the crossmember, then the moustache bar is about an inch in front of the two bolts on which it mounts and won't match up. I put thick washers between the diff cover and the bar to forward locate the diff AND keep the bar in the proper position, but the studs coming out of the diff cover are only so long and do not allow enough distance to move the crossmember forward enough. I think I might just install the engine/trans and the diff without the crossmember and have a fabrication shop modify another crossmember to fit and line up the angles of the trans and diff at the same time. Apologies for being longwinded.

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A friend of mine has a '71 Z and he's using an AZC mustache bar with no problems. The rear mounting bolts for the mustache bar are in the same location regardless of the year of Z. All you should have to do is turn the front diff rubber mount around 180 deg and everything should line up. This is covered in Jon's sticky!

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116207

 

Nigel '73 240ZT

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A friend of mine has a '71 Z and he's using an AZC mustache bar with no problems. The rear mounting bolts for the mustache bar are in the same location regardless of the year of Z. All you should have to do is turn the front diff rubber mount around 180 deg and everything should line up. This is covered in Jon's sticky!

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116207

Yup. It sounds like you need to flip the mount. All the Z's can use the R200 mustache bar and the front should mount up. I was wondering if you had erroneously had someone modify the front crossmember.

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I wondered what you meant when you said you had "the front diff crossmember modified." Nice idea. But why don't you just get an RT Diff Mount? It'll work on a '71 Z, and it has a proven design. You don't need to mount the diff to crossmember at all with it.

 

Nigel

'73 240ZT

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You don't need to mount the diff to crossmember at all with it.

 

This was a hot topic last Friday when we were installing the RT mount in my project car.

 

We felt this would allow the rear end additional "slack" (up and down) if it was not bolted to the X member. I used a nissan mount on the bottom then the Energy Suspension mount on top.

 

Looking at the "modded" front mount that Burntread has posted, this seems like a good way to go with out the added expense of the RT mount. I didn't much care for the RT mount, mine had the top hole off center and we had to modify it to accept the ES top mount. After further reading I did not find anybody else to run into this issue.

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We felt this would allow the rear end additional "slack" (up and down) if it was not bolted to the X member. I used a nissan mount on the bottom then the Energy Suspension mount on top.

 

Looking at the "modded" front mount that Burntread has posted, this seems like a good way to go with out the added expense of the RT mount. I didn't much care for the RT mount, mine had the top hole off center and we had to modify it to accept the ES top mount. After further reading I did not find anybody else to run into this issue.

I think roostmonkey had a run of mounts that had the hole in the wrong place. I know mine has the hole in the wrong place, even though I haven't installed the diff yet. Not a big deal to drill another hole.

 

I really don't think the bottom mount is needed. The ES mount has an interlock feature, so it's not going to come apart, and the amount of torque that the diff gets while decelerating is quite a bit less than when accelerating, so in my opinion the stock mount is just dead weight with the RT mount.

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I think roostmonkey had a run of mounts that had the hole in the wrong place. I know mine has the hole in the wrong place, even though I haven't installed the diff yet. Not a big deal to drill another hole.

 

Mine went in with no problems.

 

I really don't think the bottom mount is needed. The ES mount has an interlock feature, so it's not going to come apart, and the amount of torque that the diff gets while decelerating is quite a bit less than when accelerating, so in my opinion the stock mount is just dead weight with the RT mount.

 

I agree. Here's a cut-away shot of the ES mount:

 

GMTransMt.jpg

 

I've run mine for two years now with just the ES mount and I've not had any problems. It hardly flexes at all in any direction. Retaining the stock lower mount just needlessly complicates the installation. The driveshaft bolts are the worst, and without that lower mount in the way, it's a snap to get them in and out now.

 

Nigel

'73 240ZT

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