1 tuff z Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 looking at my rotors last year i observed the inner part was beginning to develop stress cracks. i figured the lack of air was creating a temp differential and i needed cooling! my idea, use the stock backing plates, modify them to clear my larger calipers, add an inlet and cooling source and...voila-home brewed cooling ducts! here are the stock backing plates, 2.5" exhaust tubing, 45 deg angle cut and welded in place. i then removed the material to allow air to flow thru the tube. i mounted the plates in place after i had modded them to fit my brakes. then determined where to place the inlet based on clearance of; sway bar, tie rod end as well as estimating placement of cooling hose, etc. here is a shot of one mounted... this shows the parts all blasted and zinc plated, next job is to reinstall them. the funnel looking things are the inlets i had made to fit in my kaminari air dam [pics of the air dam in my photo section]. i'll post pics of them mounted when i get the energy to head to my 20 degree freezing garage! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 Looks great David. Can you get hold of some temperature paint to put on your rotors to indicate any temp differentials side to side? It will help you to validate the mod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 David, Did you have to bend the backing plates back to clear the larger rotors? Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted December 23, 2009 Author Share Posted December 23, 2009 dc, i like the idea of temp paint, anyone know where to source it and how/where i apply it? jr, no bending just trimming to clear the larger caliper/mounting bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 Looks nice David. How are you going to route the hose? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted December 23, 2009 Author Share Posted December 23, 2009 john, i actually ran this setup all summer with no issues. i wound up 'ovaling' the inlet tube on the backing plate to provide a bit more clearance for where it snakes between the tie rod end and sway bar. i used some zip ties to loosely hold the hoses in place and keep them from dragging on the ground but still allow adequate slack to compensate for the wheels turning. i'll post pics of the hose routing when i reinstall everything. 12 degrees farenheit this morning. gotta be a tad more balmy before i head to the garage... Looks nice David. How are you going to route the hose? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 That sounds good, please post up some pics when you get it completed. My experience is it's pretty tough to get the hose positioned so that it doesn't kink or rub the tire, and even tougher to keep it there under track conditions. I was using 3", it might be more workable with the 2.5". One of my efforts went up the strut, then forward and down to the air dam inlet. Another went across the sway bar, then under the frame rail forward. Neither survived a full day on track. Mark says I can fix anything with zip ties and duct tape, but I have yet to conquer the brake ducts. That may be the reason he get's into a corner much better than me!!!! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 For the ducting running along the inner fender just use thin wall 2.5" exhaust tubing strapped to the inner fender. Crimp bends are fine so lay out the route and have a muffler shop bend it. Wire ties with the little screw eyelets will hold it onto the inner fender liner just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 David, this stuff looks pretty handy, but it's a bit pricy to say the least! http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_prod_id=3811&action=product http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=4974 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted December 23, 2009 Author Share Posted December 23, 2009 interesting, i didn't see any specifics as to precisely where to apply but looking at their sample rotor pic it looks to be on the cooling vanes. what do you think dave? expensive, yes, as compared to mismatched pads, no. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.