madkaw Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 This thread would be for those that have installed these type floor pans only. I know Charlie makes these for other vendors, but I seeking feedback from you guys that have installed his pans. I wrote charlie an email soliciting his response and I also wanted to hear how your install went too. In general I am happy with the pans, but it seems to me that they were made too deep. Lining up the pan along it's original attaching point along the rocker the panel sits deeper then stock. This isn't a problem until you try and line up with the tension box and you end up with the front of the floor pan higher in the middle. Not much of a way to rememdy this unless i'm missing something . I have an original untouched Z in the garage to compare with and take measurements from, and they tell me that the pans sit a little low. This issue is not very noticeable, but makes the fit tougher and I think it could be made a little better---- and that is the ONLY reason for this thread-NOT to bash Zedd Findings. I also suggested to Charlie to increase the length on the frame rail so one can replace the bottom of the tension box at the same time you are installing the rail. Of course the other issue is the lack of pan material up front to tie in with the firewall. That little piece is a PITA to fabricate because of tying it in with the curves of the floor pan. Disclaimer: I am not a professional bodyman, but have done quite a bit of sheetmetal work. These are the first floor pans I have done-but might not be the last-thus the questions:) The pics attached are mostly the passenger side which came out nice, but if you look at the drivers side(not welded yet) you can see what I am talking about in that certain view looking down the length of the panel from underneath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palosfv3 Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 Could you tell us how bad the front of the car is rusted ? Are you replacing front rails also? It appears the drivetrain is removed . You may want to confirm that the body is parallel to the datum plane( level ) and not twisted or distorted from the positioning of the jack stands and uneven garage floor or the weaking of the structure from the removal of the rusted areas. This could result in some fitting issues of the replacement pieces. I know this may or may not be the case but just asking to confirm before any comments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share Posted February 11, 2010 Frame rails are solid-no apparent damage anywhere. Drivetrain is removed but tranny brace installed and tight. Car is solidly jacked on a level concrete floor. This car is pretty solid all around with no prior collision work apparent. Both floor pans fit in the same manor, so difference side to side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldhemi Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 I am very interested in some responses to this thread because I plan on doing these in the future. Madkaw, is it possible that cHARLIE ADDED A LITTLE METAL ON THE ROCKER SIDE damn cap lock- for one to trim for rot reasons. I cant make any observation how the rocker side is configured because I have not removed the sill vinyl cover yet. I have been saving your pics and posts and am looking forward to your journey through this. Perhaps this thread needs to be moved to Welding and Fabrication to get more inputs/traffic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palosfv3 Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 After reviewing your pics, you appear to have things well under control. The only suggestions I would make are to use weld through primer between the flanges , to remove all fitted panels and drill a 9mm hole on the the flanges every 3/4' to 1" so you can plug weld the panels into place similar to the original spot welds. The new floor pans appear to be properly fitted . Attach a straight edge from lower rocker pinch weld flange on either side to use as a measuring reference to determine the the floor pans are level laterally from the tunnel to the inner rocker. As far as suggestions for the fabrication of new panels . These are not bad pieces considering they appear to be a not stamped piece. It wold be nice to see a rounded or stamped kick up to attach to the trans tunnel but its not the end of the world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tightywhitey185 Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 I bought from zedd findings and had great results.The quality if the pans seemed great.Even had a cute little brushed finish on them and lubed with some wd40!When i put mine in i had to repair some rust issues well into the firewall and under the batt trey so i had to do a good bit more fab work ie i had to make fire wall sections and kick panel sections.I hat to get a little rough with them in the front and back sections.I tacked them in after making sure theyn were level and streight then i would tack the back section and fron section.That is where i had to get a little nasty with them by beating the snot out of them....tack an d repeat to get the desired fit.And you absolutely need 3m weld thru prime for the rails.I also hat to cut slits in the sides where they met the tranny tunnel to hammer it to fit to weld.I would agree for the most part how they fit into the rocker side.......its a little weird in there.its like they fit a little deeper in there.Finish with POR15.It was a butt load of work.For me anyway but i think you are doing just fine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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