VG30DE/TT crank into a VG33?

[hoov100]

I have not seen the NA Z32 block, only the TT block. The holes I am talking about are... If you take the TT oil pump and fit it to a 33 block, then the two top mounting holes do not line up. They are further out on the block by about 1/4" or so than where the VG33 pump lines up. These are the holes that would have to be tapped into the block that was discussed in this thread. When I was at the shop a couple days ago explaining what I was doing to my friend, I was looking at the TT block and saw that there were 4 holes in that spot, instead of just the two that are needed for the pump. It looked as though you could take the VG33 pump and fit it to the TT block.

 

Porsche 911's have always come with dry sumps from the factory. You don't have to change their belts every 500 miles and you don't service their pumps every 1500 miles especially when you are going 3k between oil changes. Also, why would you go through all the trouble of machining down the crank pulley only to have to figure out what to do for accessory belts again later? When instead, all you have to do is mount a pulley on the front of the harmonic balancer and then line the pump up with that.

 

Basically, you are making a dry sump sound WAY MORE difficult that it is in reality.

Here is a VH45 in a z31 that stinky did. He is utilizing a drysump system. It's not that bad man...

 

A properly setup dry sump system consists of a scavenger filter for every pickup line in the pan, an inline filter before the pump for each line, the pump, the tank, oil heater probes and a ton of line and AN fittings. Also the 911's have an internal chain driven dry sump pump inside the block, similar to how the vh45 is.

 

 

Machining down the crank pulley is 10 minutes on the mill/surfacer if you choose to do that, the other alternative is to stack washers behind the mounting bolts on the accessory mounts. you don't need belts as the pulley sizes didn't change.

[260DET]

Things would get interesting inside that Porsche crankcase if the oil pump chain broke

 

The TT block I have has those extra two oil pump location bolt holes too, interesting because the JDM DET engine I have uses a Z32 type oil pump. On the subject of Z32 oil pumps, what is them difference between the early and late DE oil pumps? On the Courtesy site they give two numbers at different prices.

[260DET]

A final post to review what has to be done. As shown previously, fitting a Z32 oil pump is fairly straight forward, with mine the Z32 pickup and sump is being used too so that's all bolt on. For a complete engine the thing to note is that because the nose of a Z32 crank is longer the cam drive setup has to be spaced forward, getting adjustable cam wheels made up allowed that consideration to be incorporated in their design, a spacer under the tensioner wheel with a longer Z32 stud fixed that part. A Z32 crank balancer was used with a spacer to make up for the narrower VG33 cam drive wheel.

 

The stock front cover is not wide enough so I used two cut and shut. So, as you can see, while the basic conversion is fairly straight forward there is a lot of work in realigning everything to suit the Z32 crank. It's not something that can be done using basic tools, machine work and welding is required. This is not a complete guide covering every little detail but it's directed at someone who is in a position to do the work outlined and who therefore does not have to be hand fed