Dtsnlvrs Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 After much searching, I am at a loss. I may have answered it myself already, but want to confirm. 1. The R/T diff mount is already drilled / slotted to allow for install into a early 240? 2. I wish to retain the original mount position of the early r-180 (35mm fwd)...do I need to drill a new hole in the top of the mount? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 I used roostmonkey's mount and had interference issues with the tunnel on my 5/70. There is a flanged area of sheetmetal that must not be there on the later cars. His mount was drilled to fit the early and late cars, so bolting it on wasn't a problem. I trimmed the mount where it hit the flanged metal to solve that problem. The only issue I think you might have to resolve is whether there is enough room to redrill the mount hole 35mm forward. I think that might be getting close to the edge of the mount. I'd be inclined to flip it around so that the vertical brace is closer to the bolt hole, if it does indeed have enough length to redrill the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtsnlvrs Posted February 16, 2010 Author Share Posted February 16, 2010 If the R/T mount was made a little bigger at the top...I think it would work...referencing your photos from your install if the top plate was longer, and or stepped...I think it would work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtsnlvrs Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 Upon further review, and after consulting quite a few online photos of various R/T installs and the actual engineering drawing for the mount, my best bet is to get the mount without the upper mount hole drilled, mod it as you have done to get it to fit, with the gusset to the rear of course, and drill the mount hole EXACTLY where I want it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S30TRBO Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Buck, I have this mount in my early 240Z. Like Jon stated above concerning the "flanged area of sheetmetal", I installed mine without dropping the diff and I had to trim that metal to get it to fit. Since you are swapping diffs you might have to hit it with a BFM or trim like I did. It is drilled for both early and late 240Z's and you can even re-use the diff strap bracket bolts too, so you should be good to go. I have a thread on it with pics if you need a reference. I don't think there is a difference since you have a R180 and I have an R200. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtsnlvrs Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 Buck, I have this mount in my early 240Z. Like Jon stated above concerning the "flanged area of sheetmetal", I installed mine without dropping the diff and I had to trim that metal to get it to fit. Since you are swapping diffs you might have to hit it with a BFM or trim like I did. It is drilled for both early and late 240Z's and you can even re-use the diff strap bracket bolts too, so you should be good to go. I have a thread on it with pics if you need a reference. I don't think there is a difference since you have a R180 and I have an R200. The problem lies in the mount location....the early cars had the R-180 mounted 35mm fwd of the later R180 / R200 location...c'mon Joe, you should know this, how many times did we talk about why I am so adamant to leave the diff where it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S30TRBO Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 I stand corrected you and your damn R180 always mixes me up. Anyways do like you said and drill the mount exactly where you need it. It will be easier with that fancy new diff out of the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 I had the same issues with my R/T mount on a 11/70 240Z. I had to cut off the interfering flanges, redrill the urethane mounting hole and notch the upper PS corner to clear the fuel and brake lines. It was worth the work though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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