brianZortiz Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 Hi. I am having a hard time remoivng th dash, If someone can really help me and giving steps and guidelines in removing the dashboard. Also, I was trying to remove the cap next to the dash with the 4 screws (cap closest to window) and I removed 3 and the last one stripped, I cannot remove it. If you guys can please help me in removing my dash and removing the stripped screw. I have an early 260z. Thank You Brian Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19762802+2 Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 (edited) Your going to have to drill out, if possible, that last screw. That "cap closest to the window" is the Vent cover for the defroster. You have to get the Vent cover off to access the bolts that support the dash. After you get all that off there will be four bolts (two on each side) below the dash under the radio area, not hard to spot. there are some others, someone else can chime in on those. It also depends on what year you have and if its a 280z or 240z. The instructions I gave you are for a 280z the 240z might be different. Good luck! Edited February 24, 2010 by 19752802+2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Globerunner513 Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 Taking out the dash is pretty intimidating if you've never done it before, but it really isn't that hard. Just time consuming. Like posted above you will probably have to drill out that last screw if it really is stripped out. A quick look above and under the dash will reveal which bolts hold the dash on. Should be a couple on each side of the dash, as well as a couple by the center of the dash above the transmission tunnel. Also I think a few on top underneath the front cowl piece that you are having trouble taking off. Once you get the dash loose its just a matter of disconnecting all the wires/connections. Best to do as much of this ahead of time so you're not straining to disconnect plugs and support the dash at the same time. Definitely helps to have a friend help. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianZortiz Posted February 24, 2010 Author Share Posted February 24, 2010 thanks guys I really appreciate this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shika805 Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 (edited) i just got finished removing and reinstalling my dash about 3 weeks ago... make sure you label every bolt, every wire and relay with the corresponding connection and lastly take your time. your really dont want to mess up anything. Its pretty darn simple when you get down to it. Edited February 24, 2010 by shika805 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 i just got finished removing and reinstalling my dash about 3 weeks ago... make sure you label every bolt, every wire and relay with the corresponding connection and lastly take your time. your really dont want to mess up anything. Its pretty darn simple when you get down to it. This advice can apply to any job, and every shade tree mechanic has his own threshold of "job complexity" where labeling like this becomes necessary.... ...so, once in a while I like to throw out the idea of color coding. the first time I had to do a head job on my own car I grabbed some labels I had (they were for a form feed dot matrix printer, obsolete stationary) and an 8 color Sharpie set. Color coding that stuff kept me from having to identify any of it specifically.. it became "thing" and "to thing" on vacuum hoses, etc. An eight color sharpie set makes color coding easy. Color coding makes lots of things easy. Do you need things boiled down that simple for you? Maybe not, but every simplification makes the job go quicker AND easier. When you need to use crutches, you want to have good crutches around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leftover z Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 Great advise Daeron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianZortiz Posted February 24, 2010 Author Share Posted February 24, 2010 i just got finished removing and reinstalling my dash about 3 weeks ago... make sure you label every bolt, every wire and relay with the corresponding connection and lastly take your time. your really dont want to mess up anything. Its pretty darn simple when you get down to it. Hey Shika, I was looking over your post about your dash repair. I am going to give it a shot. I have faom, bondo, and paint ready. That was a great write up you did and great job on your dash repair. Thanks brianZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19762802+2 Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 Also remember to unscrew the Speedo Cable, That one had me stumped for awhile I thought I had disconnected everything haha. But also there are smaller hidden wires on the left side that you have to dig around to find. On the right side it is more simple with the big connectors. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shika805 Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 This advice can apply to any job, and every shade tree mechanic has his own threshold of "job complexity" where labeling like this becomes necessary.... ...so, once in a while I like to throw out the idea of color coding. the first time I had to do a head job on my own car I grabbed some labels I had (they were for a form feed dot matrix printer, obsolete stationary) and an 8 color Sharpie set. Color coding that stuff kept me from having to identify any of it specifically.. it became "thing" and "to thing" on vacuum hoses, etc. An eight color sharpie set makes color coding easy. Color coding makes lots of things easy. Do you need things boiled down that simple for you? Maybe not, but every simplification makes the job go quicker AND easier. When you need to use crutches, you want to have good crutches around. thats a great idea... i thought of that at the time, but all i had was masking tape and a sharpie haha. that would make installing it so much easier! Hey Shika, I was looking over your post about your dash repair. I am going to give it a shot. I have faom, bondo, and paint ready. That was a great write up you did and great job on your dash repair. Thanks brianZ thanks man, make sure to use flexible bumper repair by bondo... not the autobody bondo. You want flexibility when it get hots in the interior. You dont want the dash to crack again. Another option i would change was use a stronger foaming material. I was interested in using gorilla glue. When it dries it expands like into rigid foam, probably work better. than the stuff i use. Its totally worth doing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenji Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 Make sure you get all of those wire connectors labeled as said before, but the radio/hvac bezel should also be loosened up and slid out of the way, or disconnected from the heating ducts. You should also be aware and keep looking behind the dash, as you could break the different heating ducts that can be screwed in on one side or taped together. just my .02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianZortiz Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 thats a great idea... i thought of that at the time, but all i had was masking tape and a sharpie haha. that would make installing it so much easier! thanks man, make sure to use flexible bumper repair by bondo... not the autobody bondo. You want flexibility when it get hots in the interior. You dont want the dash to crack again. Another option i would change was use a stronger foaming material. I was interested in using gorilla glue. When it dries it expands like into rigid foam, probably work better. than the stuff i use. Its totally worth doing! Yah, Im going to use the same bondo you used. The 3m bumper repair kit bondo. Well the paint im using SEM TRIM COAT AND TRIM BLACK. Really good product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shika805 Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 ^ good stuff you got there! it should work really well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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