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POR-15


Guest Locutus

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Guest Locutus

How far does this stuff go? I need to paint my engine bay, inner fenders, under and inside floor pans, and some odd and end suspension components. How much will it take as this stuff is quite expensive I don't want to waste it by buying way more than I will ever use.

 

 

Mike

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I bought the mid size stuff, a quart I guess? (silly units, anyway) icon_smile.gif

 

I've done now:

 

- Firewall forward, inner fenders, under frame rails, etc.

- Under windshield cowling

- Complete front suspension

- Floor pans

 

And I'm not even half way through that quart yet. It goes a LOOOOOONG way!

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Guest Anonymous

That is one of the things I love about POR15! Yeah, a quart is rather expensive but it just keeps going and flows out really well. I can't wait to get to the point you are at!

 

Craig

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Just remember it sticks to rusty parts best, if the part is clean bare metal I don't think it sticks as well. It also moisture cures so be sure and keep it closed up airtight when not using it or it'll harden into a solid block icon_sad.gif

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Oh yeah, it really doesn't work on glossy surfaces very well. Like Jim said, rusty surfaces, or sandblasted ones seem to work best. Almost everything I applied it to was sandblasted first, and its on there darn good. I had it over existing paint in one spot, and it scraped off fairly easily.

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perfect timing...

 

As soon as I'm rested up from this damn bug I'm going at my EFI install....

 

planned to drop my fuel tank and fully paint it up with POR15 or equivalent as well as under body/straps in same area....good idea or another product recomended? Anyone use Hammerite? I plan to wirebrush it all first (stiff brush in a drill/works good for stripping down loose stuff etc), degrease and paint.....

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Ross, isn't Hammerite that stuff that looks like hammer-finish but is not for rust, but is meant to just prevent it? If your tank is rust free, then it's probably as good as Rustoleum or some such product, maybe better. We pay about $9US for a can. Another good product is Eastwood's Corroless if you have rust already. It is about $20US/can. Ouch!

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Don't buy it without buying their "Prep-Wash" Solution($16.00 If memory serves me..). The stuff peals off if the surface isn't properly prepped. BTW, a quart of the stuff is more than sufficiant to do what you described.

 

Mike Kelly icon_rolleyes.gif

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Guest Locutus

They list 2 products to properly prepare the surface to be painted, Marine Wash to clean, degrease, etc. They also recommend Metal-Metal ready to prep the metal for painting as it etches the metal and leaves a zinc phosphate coating that is ideal for POR15 to stick to. I will be ordering some soon as I am getting ready to do the engine bay, but I might wait till I have finished the frame rails and floor pans to buy it so it won't be sitting around waiting to get used.

 

Mike

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Guys, don't buy more POR-15 than you'll use in 6 months time. It doesn't have a long shelf life. Get lots of throw away brushes, gloves, and I use plastic bags in a butter dish for holding the paint. Pour in what you'll need (hard to judge - it does go a long way) and seal the can with duct tape right away. If you leave it open at all in humid weather it'll brick up like BLKMGK says.

 

BTW, I don't remove the lid. Just puncture two holes in it and pour from one. They say not to shake the can, but I roll it over very slowly before using it. I got this tip from Hirsch Automotive that sells a similar product called Miracle paint. The problem with the lid is that even a tiny bit down in the crevice of the lid opening will glue the lid on forever.

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Like others said, don't buy it til you need it. I bought the starter kit over 6 months ago, tried to use some last month, and was wondering why it looked like PlayDoh!

 

Used some of it in the beginning though, I found that it peels on thin surfaces that flex, which seems natural. I wonder how it stands up to engine heat though?

 

Owen

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quote:

Originally posted by Drax240z:

I didn't open the lid on mine either, 2 holes punched in the top of the can. Its a little messy, but at least you know you'll be able to get at it again.
icon_smile.gif

 

OK, I'll bite.....how do you seal the holes effectively on the lid till your next use? Duct tape? Silicone.....

 

Hammerite is a v. good metal paint that can be used on rusty surfaces as well. A skilled local welder uses only this product on all his items, he makes countless restaurant chairs/tables and all sorts of items that see variable weather and frequent use. I used it the first time with my air gun last year to paint my front suspension and it's stood up very well. It's only available at Colour Your World chain around here AFAIK, YMMV.

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I think when they say don't shake the can, they mean don't put it in a paint shaker. I usually just wobble around the can a bit before I open.

 

I didn't open the lid on mine either, 2 holes punched in the top of the can. Its a little messy, but at least you know you'll be able to get at it again. icon_smile.gif

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