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Progress/Body work


Guest Frank280z

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Frank, sounds like it's gonna be a winner! But let me offer this one suggestion, if you going through all of the trouble welding in all of those things to give your car the "smooth" look, why not do the drip rail along the roof too? Just remember to tack weld every so often behind you cuts so the roof won't completely detach and you'll minimize warping.

 

David

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DOH!!! I swear I'm losing it sometimes! Gads, my aching caffeine deprived groggy mind plays tricks on me. I swear I didn't see the first line which clearly stated that you were removing the drip rails. I'll just spank myself now...

 

Good, I'm finished. Now, please post pictures of your great work in progress when you get the chance. Thank you.

 

David

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Guest Frank280z

Got both drip rails removed. Welded. Used a sawsall slowly. Every three inches cut once in. Then across to the first cut. Ground it down flush. Tacked. Repeated. No need to lather or rinse. Just checking to see if you're reading... After the complete rail was removed I went over the area with the mig(110v). Ground down again. And used microfiber filler for about 1/16". This totally updates the look. I have also welded in the fresh air holes on the sides and the antenna hole. Along with the smooth rear panel. No bumper. Now on to the doors. They shouldn't take too long icon_rolleyes.gif

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Guest Frank280z

First side took 4 hrs. all together. Between my nerves. Attempts with the saw. Finding the right angle and temp of the welder. I was alot more comfortable on the pass. side. 2.5 hrs all together.

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Guest Frank280z

OK...I still don't have a dig. cam. But the scanner still works fine. When I get them in; you guys will be the 2nd to see them....Frank

BTW My dad use to run a body shop. I guess watching him for the majority of my childhood is paying off right now.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Frank280z

I'm painting the car a week from tomorrow. 2001 Toyota Fourrunner Millenuim Silver Metallic. I never shot silver before. I was told to beware of the zebra stripes with silver. Any tips???

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Yes, just one tip.

Once I get done with my body work and you paint mine, be sure not to leave the zebra stripes.

icon_wink.gif

It's amazing how these "little" projects turn out to be more involved, daily. I was just planning to weld up my trim holes and float them into the existing layer of paint and be done. I'm now thinking of moving my headlights, removing drip rail, new hood vents, single windshield wiper, remove door handles......Will it ever end?

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I tell you that the VW Scirocco single wiper is way cheaper and more plentiful at the wrecking yard...

 

Come to think of it, there are other cars with single wipers too. I'm thinking I saw an Alfa Romeo(?) with a single assembly. I believe it was Italian...

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Hey Frank, tell me how you are doing the bumperless smooth rear panel? I plan to do the same, moving the tail pipes to a hole in center just below the license plate. I have a '73. I know the rear lower valance panels differed greatly from year to year. Mine is pretty beat up. I was thinking of just cutting the whole thing off and starting with a freash piece of metal, but that is one big compound curve.

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On my old 280, I did the same thing with the lower rear valance. I took 1/8" aluminum sheet, and slowly hammered it till the metal started to expand in the middle more than the outside edges, thus creating the compound curves. The same idea was used in making the aluminum panels for the old cobras. It took one afternoon to shape and file it smooth enough for the finishing normal body work and paint. Thin steel will work just as well, and then you can weld it on instead of using flathead screws like I did. My original one was beyond help too. Lets see if this will work (first time to try this image thing)

View?u=1541023&a=11868173&p=42491697

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I haven't really looked into the single wiper that much. I was kicking around the idea back when I decided to pull my assembly out for "maintenance" afew months ago. They seemed to work better, but still not that great. I usually don't drive her when it's raining because I haven't replaced my gaskets,except the door seals. I'll be looking more into it as I start running out of panels to smooth out and start working on the modifications. As I'm doing body work now, I thought I "might as well" do most of the things I've been considering doing to the car. blueovalz's old 280 has one of the things I plan to do soon. Rear valance. I haven't decided if I want to use a fiberglass bumper or not have one at all. I think the rear valance seems alittle to flat looking, so I was thinking of rounding it alittle more and increasing the angle to give it more of a forward curve as it goes down. More like a roll pan. Mine has had some body work done to it so I'll probably start over with new metal.

I have until Sept. to get all these things done. Thats when I'll either sell my truck or let it go back. I want a V8Z. Anyone want my truck? Right now it has 47K and in Sept. I'll take $13k for it. it's a '97 chevy with 350 w/ K&N cold air induction. D/FW area. http://www.geocities.com/spotfitz/Truckzoom.jpg

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OK-Frank says he's done it-but his car is heading into the paint shop--anyone else out there that has welded up the side vents on their car? Mine is about ready to go up on the rotisserie, and I want to make sure it wont cause any problems if I make some of these mods--I also am going for the "smoothing" of the body (ie, no door handles, drip rails, chrome, etc) Is welding up those vents going to cause serious ventilation problems? Thanks

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