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radiator for rb25


dice

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i'm using an rb25det engine and would like to know what size and how many rows is the best for the engine, i'll also install an aircon. the shop owner said that i should put a size 25x19x3 radiator with four rows so that i can use a/c is this true?

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I posted this for someone that was asking about radiators in my build thread, should help you out. They are both 19x24 which is a nice fit in the Z.

 

http://www.prcracing.com/aluminum-radiators.html (2nd and 4th one down)

 

My radiator is model number 2111111 with -10an fitting for the oil cooler. They have a few different fitting styles available.

 

they also have the same radiator with no oil cooler which is part number 2111100

 

They are both "GM double pass racing aluminum radiators"

 

Quick pic

 

31.jpg

Edited by RS Speed
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+1 On the PRC Radiator

 

I'm also running the PRC Radiator in my RB25. If you look at the picture by RS Speed, you can see the oil cooler fittings on the driver side which is an option they offer...I should of got that same option with the build in oil cooler but at the time I didn't know they offered it. Dual Pass aluminun radiator will work great for the RBs. I hear you can get away with a mod stock radiator but I didn't want to risk it.

 

I like the cooling plate that RS Speed made...Very Nice...If that cooling plate extended to the back side of the radiator and bolted to it I would be really interested and tempted in asking him to sell me one hahaha.

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thanks for the info guys really big help. another problem is how many rows should i buy? the mechanic want to buy a radiator with 4 rows so that i can use a/c is this right?

 

In your climate I would go 4 row. It should fit, but your fan will need to be a pusher. (The fan mounts in front of the Rad.)

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In your climate I would go 4 row. It should fit, but your fan will need to be a pusher. (The fan mounts in front of the Rad.)

 

any recomended brand for the 4 row radiator? i've been searching the net and this forum but can't find any radiator with 4 rows

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Another option i know mckinney motorsports offers a custom radiator with optional fan set up specifically for the rb into the s30 chassi

 

At twice what I paid for my PRC Radiator, I wouldn't pay for the McKinney Motorsports one. It looks like the AFCO radiator to me just marked up in price. Not exactly sure which brand it is though because it's not listed.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I don't really know if anyone has used one since its a new thing for these guys, but thezstore.com has a four row in the factory z configuration. It's 2.75 inches thick according to them and is polished aluminum. weighs about 14.5 pounds. That's actually why I was looking here. I was tryingto find someone who has one installed to see how the clearance looks. I really don't see any problem with clearance though. There is a well known RB26 Z on the internet with the ISMA flares painted grey with silver stripes. He has his intercooler mounted between his radiator support and the radiator itself and I think his fan is still a puller type. His radiator doesn't look real thick, but its just the fact that he has that much between the support and the engine.

 

post-3041-12710985917873_thumb.jpg

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any recomended brand for the 4 row radiator? i've been searching the net and this forum but can't find any radiator with 4 rows

 

 

Was looking around for you, but I can't seem to find one. Unless you go custom. PRC might be able to make one for you. Or You can get a PRC rad, and make sure you ceramic coat all of your exhaust system. The Z engine bay has very bad flow, and tends to get hot. The lower you can keep the under hood temp the better. You can also switch your fuel to methanol which will burn much cooler, and probably be cheaper where you live.

 

I'm also under the assumption that it get very hot where you live.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Unless I am totally missing something in this thread somewhere I see that no-one has addressed the hose issue.

Im ordering up my PRC 2111100 today direct from PRC. They really do have the best price on their own product.

 

They list the chevy double pass with a 1-1/2" upper and a 1-3/4" lower. Most of the posts in this thread cover RB26dett installs, but there are RB25det and RB20det owners here as well. Maybe a few of you guys with success in this install could list the hoses that you found work.

 

RB26dett

Upper-

Lower-

 

RB25det

-Greddy/knockoff intake

Upper-

Lower-

-OE intake

Upper-

Lower-

 

RB20det

Upper-

Lower-

 

Brief description of how to install hoses: I.E. had to cut 2" off upper manifold side. Another note should be on how well it fit the location when it was completed. Was it taught, kinda kinked, or Perfect!?

 

This could save multiple trips to the auto parts stores to match up hoses. Im half temped to hook up the tow bar and drag the car down the street to a couple of auto parts stores, but I know my success will probably still be limited.

 

Thanks Guys.

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  • 6 months later...

you guys guys making your own fan shrouds? i am thinking about ordering a condensor with my prc. if i have a 4" intercooler, a condensor and a radiator do you think i need 1 fan or 2?

 

 

I'm thinking your going to need 2 fans. One for the radiator and 1 for the condensor. I don't think 1 fan would flow enough air through the condensor and the radiator. Your a/c pressures would be through the roof in traffic with the a/c on.

Edited by pat1
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yea, thats what i was thinking.

as for radiator cap for this prc... i would assume that we will be using the 22-24psi version?

also it has been so long since i have had my 280z condensor out, i cant remember. i have a 240z and a 280z, rb26 in the 240z and i want to put ac in the 240... do i want a double pass condensor or a side to side. my guess is one that runs side to side. as one hose goes from the ac compressor to the condensor, then from the condensor to the evap which would be on the pass side...

Edited by boostedh23a1
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hell i can get a single 16 that will flow 2780 cfm... thats more that two 10"s can pull.... but i cant wire one to the ac system though :( maybe i can wire it into the high pressure switch anyway, then it will kick on if the head temp creeps up and it wasnt on due to the water temp being low, hmmmmm

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