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1973 240Z Build


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I swapped out the other three springs with the Tokico 280Z springs. On all 4 corners the car stands 1/2 inch higher with the 280Z springs compared to the Tokico 240Z springs.

 

 

I removed the transmission, driveshaft, and exhaust in preparation for cleaning the undercoating off the trans tunnel, frame rails, and floor boards.

 

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I started needle gunning again (good times... note the sarcasm) and found a few rust spots. It is more than I'd like to have to deal with but nothing to complain about give the level of rust I have seen in some of the other build threads.

 

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Once I finish the trans tunnel I plan to put new hard fuel/brake lines in and then start putting the back half of the car together (there is no gas tank or third member right now). I've read old threads on fuel delivery for hours and figure give my planned turbo set up I'll have to weld a sump into my fuel tank. I haven't welded in years so I plan to get a buddy of mine to give me a lesson or two and then I'm going to see if I can fab the gas tank up myself.

 

Any tips on fabricating the gas tank sump or running new hard lines would be greatly appreciate as I haven't done either before....... but that's half the fun right.

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For the fuel lines, I believe you can run high pressure soft line. You can also go to Nevada All Hose on craig and get some SS braided line.

 

From all the reading and people I've talked to locally it seems you are best off running as much hard line as you can. I'm planning to try and make an exact copy of the stock hard lines using stainless lines. I'll just buy the bending and flaring tool and do it myself.

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seems we made similar design choices ... good work. I got a bead blasting cabinet from HF and glass bead much of my pieces prior to powdercoating. I also use a tumbler to polish pieces like bolts prior to sending a batch off to be plated.

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I got a bead blasting cabinet from HF and glass bead much of my pieces prior to powdercoating. I also use a tumbler to polish pieces like bolts prior to sending a batch off to be plated.

 

Nice move, That's what I should have done. I hate waiting for the parts to get back from sand blasting.

 

 

 

While I continue to needle gun I did receive a few things in the mail! Both are in preparation for the engine phase of my build.

 

Pallnet fuel rail from a guy on Zcar.com

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Polyurethane motor mounts from McKinney Motorsports (I must say this is an absolutely gorgeous product)

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I swapped out the other three springs with the Tokico 280Z springs. On all 4 corners the car stands 1/2 inch higher with the 280Z springs compared to the Tokico 240Z springs.

 

 

I removed the transmission, driveshaft, and exhaust in preparation for cleaning the undercoating off the trans tunnel, frame rails, and floor boards.

 

101_0082.JPG

101_0083.JPG

 

I started needle gunning again (good times... note the sarcasm) and found a few rust spots. It is more than I'd like to have to deal with but nothing to complain about give the level of rust I have seen in some of the other build threads.

 

101_0085.JPG

101_0086.JPG

 

 

 

Once I finish the trans tunnel I plan to put new hard fuel/brake lines in and then start putting the back half of the car together (there is no gas tank or third member right now). I've read old threads on fuel delivery for hours and figure give my planned turbo set up I'll have to weld a sump into my fuel tank. I haven't welded in years so I plan to get a buddy of mine to give me a lesson or two and then I'm going to see if I can fab the gas tank up myself.

 

Any tips on fabricating the gas tank sump or running new hard lines would be greatly appreciate as I haven't done either before....... but that's half the fun right.

 

I took the Tokico HD springs and cut 1/2 a loop to drop it to stock ride height.

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John Coffey has a write-up on this. I'll look for it. Anyway, I had 240Z HD springs from AZ Z Car and he ran out of the rear ones, so I got the 280Z ones which we know are 1/2 or so too high, so I followed John's advice, cut off 1/2 a coil and it worked. The key was I wanted linear rate springs and I wanted stock 240Z ride height because I'd done the progressive lowering springs before and the ride was just too harsh for a street car (at least for me).

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  • 4 months later...

Took a few months break from working on the Z but I'm back at it. Almost have the transmission tunnel and floor pans totally stripped. Just ordered the Bad Dog frame rails and will be adding those to the mix before I start putting stiff back together.

 

My plans for the next few months:

 

Finish stripping the tunnel

Get the frame rails welded on

Paint the underside with RustBullet

New hard fuel lines

Modded 240 tank or that fancy custom aluminum gas tank I saw posted

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Finally finished stripping the transmission tunnel, now I am just waiting on the Bad Dog frame rails I ordered on April 16th.

 

While I'm waiting I played around with some graphic ideas....... I'm thinking 370Z pearl white on the whole car and the taped sections in a copper-ish color. I blame my playing around with the tape on watching too many old episodes of "Over Haulin" on Netflicks.

 

 

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There were a few nooks and crannies I couldn't get to in the transmission tunnel with the wire wheel, so I decided to have it sand blasted....... and I figured if it is already going to the sandblaster why not do the engine bay and floorboards at the same time. So I spent friday afternoon pulling the engine and seats.

 

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Tuesday it gets sandblasted and then thursday the frame rails get welded on. Then a weekend full of painting for me!

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This week I painted the engine bay, had the BD frame rails welded on (I need to learn to weld), and applied seam sealer to the frame rails. I hope to get them covered in RustBullet tomorrow. Man I can't wait to be done with chassis prep so I can start putting in the fun stuff!

 

At the sand blaster: (http://www.astripcenter.com/) All and all it went well but that crap gets everywhere. In retrospect I would have stripped the car completely and had him do the whole unibody at once.

 

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Bad Dog frame rails:

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I was very impressed with John (I believe that was his name), who sells these frame rails. We had some shipping issues and he was very helpful in getting it all straightened out.

 

They took a little more work to get to fit on there then I though it would, and there were some gaps in the rear sections when it was all said and done. I think it is likely a result of trying to weld a new piece on a 40 year old car.

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  • 7 months later...

I've been on a bit of a hiatus with the Z due to other obligations, but I'm back at it now. Over the last few weeks I have been putting new brake line, clutch line, and fuel lines in. I have to say this is not my cup of tea but after I run the return fuel line I will be done! I also changed out the brake master cylinder for the larger one from a 280ZX and put in a Wilwood proportioning valve.... this seemed like a good idea since I want to convert to disk brakes in the back. I have not decided if I will go vented rotors in the front yet.

 

Then the plan will be:

 

-Finish up/install sumped gas tank

-Run braided lines with AN fittings to the fuel tank

-Install the LSD and CV halfshafts

-Then FNALLY put the motor in and start learning about Mega Squirt..... :blink:

 

 

Bottom one is from the 280zx

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New hard lines

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Does anyone know were I can get the rubber pieces that hold the hard lines into the bracket (top left of the last picture)? I checked Home Depo and Ace for something that would work but came up empty handed.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks for the encouragement VKLR!

 

Finally to a point where I get to put stuff back on the Z! Had the sump welded on my gas tank at BTB (www.btbprod.com) and then had the Gas Tank Renu sealer done at Mac’s Radiator Service in Bellflower California (562) 920-1871.

 

I used this sump: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-4041/

 

I also installed all new vapor lines from the tank. Now I am just waiting on Jerryb to get another run of SS gas tank straps going.

 

ztank2.jpg

 

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Ztank1.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

things are really starting to come together! Spent today modifying things to install the 1987 300zx LSD I bought a few months ago. I installed the RT diff mount and Burleigh's steel brace that clears the finned covert.

 

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I haven't decided if I will us a different poly bushing on the RT mount in conjunction with the OEM rubber mount in an attempt to keep the stock pinion angle or not. Doesn't seem like people have issue's just running the RT mount, so I'll probably just leave it as is.

 

The steel brace install was straight forward and easy, the only issue I had was that the bends on the brace were no true. There was a small twist to the bar which lead to some additional tweaking on the install, but in the end it all worked out.

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