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building a l24


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I posted a thread a week ago or so about going to look at a 1972 240z. I'm going to buy the car, it is only $500 and the engine needs to be rebuilt but over all the car looks in pretty decent shape for its age. I'm having difficulty finding a l28(e(t)) to put into it so I'm thinking about boring out the block (p30) of my l24 and I believe I read that you can overbore it to 3mm, is this correct? Also I want to use a crankshaft from a l28 with shorter rods for the pistons (maybe use l28 rods) and I have an E31 head that I may shave 2mm off of and shim up the cam so the timing stays correct. What do I have to do to the engine to make it run off of unleaded gas, I believe I read that I have to replace the valve seal but is that all? I'm not looking for great performance but something relatively inexpensive and quick so I can drive my car while I work on either a 1970 spec sbc lt1 350 or a rb engine of some sort. Any ideas on what the compression ratio would be? I've tried to figure it out but I haven't found a good way to calculate it yet. What are your thoughts on this set up?

 

thank you

Randy

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WOW you threw out a TON of info and a very BROAD topics...... Here is where i stand. Why would you spend the money turning a L24 into a 26 when you could spend a few hundred and get a COMPLETE L28 to rebuild???? And cheep to boot!

 

For compression just keep it around 9 or so and you should be fine with timing advance. You could run the E31 with dished pistons and be a few CR points up from the stock N head. Or get flat tops and run a turbo head there are PLENTY of options out there. Don't let someone else tell you what YOU need on YOUR car...... Good job on the searching keep it up.

 

Welcome to the forum!

Edited by neotech84
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Thank you for your response, I'm having a difficult time finding a l28 around where I live, I'm near detroit, I'm going to update my location status after I post this, sorry it isn't there. The only ones I can find are on ebay and they're are around $1000 and I would want to rebuild it so there would be that extra cost. I may just buy a l24 from somewhere close and drop that in for the mean time but this isn't going to be a daily driver, i have my 93 300zx for that, and owning a z makes you at the very least a garage mechanic so I'm thinking about taking the summer and building this engine up. I have all of the parts, aside from the crankshaft, rebuild kit, and the rods, and I have priced it all out to roughly $900. I may just go that route and not overbore the block so all in all I can do everything for about $1100-1200 which would be about what I would spend on a l28 minus the rebuild kit cost. Like I said in my first post, the real goal with this car is to drop in a sbc or rb of some sort and to build one of those is going to be a lot more money. I just want to be able to drive it and I figured for an exra $600 or so I might as well get a little more power out of it since I'll be rebuilding it anyways.

 

I know that was long but that is my thought process behind building up the l24, I hope that makes sense to you and I'm just not going crazy, although I feel like i am with all of the research I am doing.

 

I found ozdat.com and their engine build calculator is amazing. I will be at 9.6:1 CR with this set up so that should suit me quite well.

 

Also was I correct with how to convert this engine to unleaded gasoline, just replace the valve seats to hardened ones?

 

Thank you agian

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Thank you for your response, I'm having a difficult time finding a l28 around where I live, I'm near detroit, I'm going to update my location status after I post this, sorry it isn't there. The only ones I can find are on ebay and they're are around $1000 and I would want to rebuild it so there would be that extra cost. I may just buy a l24 from somewhere close and drop that in for the mean time but this isn't going to be a daily driver, i have my 93 300zx for that, and owning a z makes you at the very least a garage mechanic so I'm thinking about taking the summer and building this engine up. I have all of the parts, aside from the crankshaft, rebuild kit, and the rods, and I have priced it all out to roughly $900. I may just go that route and not overbore the block so all in all I can do everything for about $1100-1200 which would be about what I would spend on a l28 minus the rebuild kit cost. Like I said in my first post, the real goal with this car is to drop in a sbc or rb of some sort and to build one of those is going to be a lot more money. I just want to be able to drive it and I figured for an exra $600 or so I might as well get a little more power out of it since I'll be rebuilding it anyways.

 

I know that was long but that is my thought process behind building up the l24, I hope that makes sense to you and I'm just not going crazy, although I feel like i am with all of the research I am doing.

 

I found ozdat.com and their engine build calculator is amazing. I will be at 9.6:1 CR with this set up so that should suit me quite well.

 

Also was I correct with how to convert this engine to unleaded gasoline, just replace the valve seats to hardened ones?

 

Thank you agian

 

I'm pretty certain no z car ever ran on leaded gasoline. If you think about it building an l24 would just be kinda a waste of time. I don't know if you know the saying but "There is no replacement for displacement". You should be able to find an L28 around Detroit easily. At least I would think you should be able to. I will even take the liberty of looking around a bit for you. I know there is a running one with a 4 speed still in the car for sale with 75k for $400. Guy even offers for you to come drive it, but that is in Indiana, not sure if you are willing to drive. Keyword searching on craigs list is important. I believe it is a Diesel Maxima crank (V07), 240z rods with arp hardware, and single cam KA24e flat top pistons that make a 3.1 liter stroker. That is with a L28 block of course. Don't quote me on this though. Just do a decent rebuild and get the car running. Then you can figure out what route you may want to go.

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I honestly am confused on the whole leaded or unleaded thing. I have been searching for quite sometime and I believe I am right in saying that 77 was the first year nissan/datsun started making unleaded cars.

 

I wouldn't mind the drive, especially for a running one for $400. I appreciate your helping with finding an engine, I've been looking with no luck really. Next week I'll start at the junk yards, maybe I'll find something there. If i could find a engine for less then the rebuild I would most definitely do that. It is a dream of mine to one day own a 1970 240z and restore it to factory everything so i could rebuild the l24 at my leisure and put it in the 1970 when i eventually get her.

 

And I have heard of the saying and I like it. I also like the one "the only thing that beats cubic inches is cubic dollars" it makes me laugh

 

Thank you for your input

Edited by randylwjr
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No problem. Its just the engine and transmission but I will get you the craigs list link. I believe it is in Indianapolis. Being this is where I live, I may even be willing to go look at it/take video and pictures. Just have to get time to do that.

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OR...you could focus on getting the Z in optimum shape and addressing things like brakes/electrical/suspension/interior/rust first. Save your money and keep your eyes peeled for a running GM donor car...I'm sure you could find a Chevy 350 and tranny in Detroit...there HAS to be one! Its Detroit! Buy the book, "Datsun V8 conversion manual" from JTR (Jags that Run). It will give you good idea of what parts/work is needed.

 

But, if you are trying to keep it Datsun powered, then more power to you! Simple search on Craigslist popped up a bunch of Datsun hits.

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I'm friends with some people who are friends with a guy that restores old camaros and makes a pretty good living at it. People go to him from all over the country. I would buy all of the parts to build it from him. I want to build a 1970 spec lt1 350 and build it up right and put a supercharger on it. To do all of that would cost a lot of money right now. I want to get it running for relatively cheap, compared to the 350 build or swapping in a rb, and be able to drive it while I address the other areas of concern and save up the money for the engine and swap. JTR actually sparked my interest and lead me to this site so when I do do the 350 I'll definitely have the book. I have also been on craigslist for the past couple of days trying to find an engine, I have emailed all of those people and those that have emailed me back either don't have an engine or have sold it. I'm truly in no rush though, I want to have her running by the end of summer so I got time. My original post about the build was with things that i know i can readily get.

 

thank you for your input

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10.2 is WAY too high! Or could run the l28 with the E31 and a 2mm HG for 9.5........ a little better. You would have LOTS of ping and would loose power backing off the timing. There are plenty of threads on good CR look around. A l28 are not like engines today (Honda), you can't just pick a big CR just because...... You have to prep for it! Most people use methanol injection and other things to get rid of detonation. But you would be better off with timing advance than with a slight CR bump more power in the end.

 

Get a running engine to play around with then see where you want to go from there.

 

And YES early Z did run with lead. There was 5% in gas till 85..... but it will not be a problem with a higher octane rating.

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Thank you for answering my question about the leaded gas! I have read so many contradicting statements about it. When you say high octane gas, do you mean premium 91+? The guy is selling the engine with a l26 head which has to be an e88. With this head the CR is 9.7

 

Thank you again

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I have a L28 from my 78 280z, I'll sell cheap, but I'm in Albuquerque so the shipping would be a killer, I know of a few other L28's out here maybe even an ET, but again the shipping wouldn't be cheap...

 

Phar

 

Nelson has an ET, or at least he used to, was in an 81? I think. said it would need new seals and cleaned up though. Been sitting a while.

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I wouldn't mind rebuilding the engine, especially if it is an et. Is Nelson a member here?

 

Phar would you sell your engine with the harness and ecu?

 

Nelson is, I believe he is, I don't remember his screen name though, sorry.

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I'll look him up when I have a little more money. At the risk of sounding like an artard, I just came across car-part.com. I have found a 82 l28et for $300 thats about 50 miles away from me. I have to call and see if that includes the harness and ecu. I was thinking about dropping that engine(wherever Iget it) in with a r200 4.11 differential. I found one of those too! I feel happy

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I'll look him up when I have a little more money. At the risk of sounding like an artard, I just came across car-part.com. I have found a 82 l28et for $300 thats about 50 miles away from me. I have to call and see if that includes the harness and ecu. I was thinking about dropping that engine(wherever Iget it) in with a r200 4.11 differential. I found one of those too! I feel happy

 

If its running buy it, even with no harness you can go MS3 for a decent price. I know, I know, you don't want to deal with all that wiring. It would probably be worth it. Especially with the reliability and power gains off the bat. Then get a decent turbo and exhaust set up with a 60mm 240sx throttle body. Good power, easy. That or you could spend quite a bit and go with a Haltech or something.

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