Ironman Posted December 28, 2010 Author Share Posted December 28, 2010 Thank you Modern, I always thought I just sucked at shifting every time I got a clunk. I never really did much research on it due to the fact that EVERYONE universally agrees to the benefits of the mount. I thought that the rt mount stops "strap stretching", which in turn causes a clunk. But now after further researching, Your supposed to use the GM trans mount to bolt through the diff to prevent upward AND downward travel. Man I feel like an idiot. Can't wait to get the car on the road. Thanks again Modern. Heres the link that taught me everything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironman Posted January 2, 2011 Author Share Posted January 2, 2011 Another Update: Painted Engine Bay Installed Trans Fitting Dealt with Accessory Drive Setup (Just Needs a belt) First of the painting: I am very proud of myself considering the results and the circumstances that I was in. The paint PPG OMNI Line AU Single Stage 1976 Datsun 110 Red Paint Gun: HF HVLP 1.5mm tip Compressor: 3 Gallon IR Extras: HF Water/Oil Separator Personal Experience: Zero There are obvious flaws in the paint job mostly runs, and some lack of prep. Sandblasting, epoxy primer and lots of sanding could have taken care of it. But it is not a show car, and is more than adequate for my application. I just grinded, picklexed, and primered the rust spot in the battery tray. I didn't cut out and weld in a new piece of metal since I don't have access to a welder yet. (When School starts) I also am going to respray the brake lines/master cylinder;why go through the PITA of repainting an engine bay to have dirty brake lines? Have to do lots of wetsanding for the airdam. Time for the pictures- Above: My friend after getting high from the paint and buzzed from 3 Coronas. Not a bad job, not bad at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironman Posted January 7, 2011 Author Share Posted January 7, 2011 Small Update: Painted and installed the brake system/ clutch If anyone is wondering the silver paint is VHT Silver Engine Enamel. The Clutch MC was easy- Tilton 7/8 74 Series Kit Note- 5/16 -24 is the threads for the the Tilton rod (Pretty Sure on Thread Size,but don't quote me) You have to re-tap the Datsun "Pedal Connector" for everything to work. Also the hole is exactly the right size- The rubber boot is rubbing on the holes. Now I removed the engine subframe to sandblast and paint. While the Subframe is out, I'll paint it black I will also clean and sandblast the steering rack.(Silver) Maybe the LCA's too. (Color matched Orange) Heres a pic so far: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KFD Posted January 7, 2011 Share Posted January 7, 2011 I can't wait to see the final outcome on this car! It looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironman Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share Posted January 10, 2011 Thanks KFD, little comments like yours are a HUGE motivation booster. Time for an update- Painted Sub-frame mounts and steering rack Installed Datsun side JCI Mounts (VERY SOLID) Reinstalled Front Suspension Ran 1 gauge relocated battery wire from rear Installed Braided sleeve over old harness. At the rate I am going to hopefully be done within 2-3 weeks. Left to do- Paint LS1 Deal with the wiring. Reinstall R/T mount Wire in the fans on LS1 Harness Mount Battery Tray. R and R fuel system and associated wiring Drop in LS1 Add fluids Mate the wiring Mount PCM Install heat shielding related items Install Trans Crossmember Install Driveshaft Install radiator and intake Ghetto rig exhaust enough to go to school and properly install it. Do any final touches(rerouting,bending,etc) Put back the body DRIVE IT Comments, Suggestion, and Questions are more than welcome Here are pictures: Above:MMMmm. More Parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironman Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 (edited) Another update: I did all of the LS1 related work this week. Used a russell fitting to adapt the trans Wix Oil Filter Repainted Engine Installed Oil Pressure Adaptor If anybody is wondering why I didn't paint the alternator,starter, and idler pulley. The reason is because I didn't want to "screw it up" with the paint. Once I verify that the engine works. I will pull it and paint it. It will also give me something to do in Auto Tech at school. Here are pictures: Above: Almost looks like a crate motor Shipping it off to school, so I can torque the headers, 02 sensors, and Water pump. I need to buy a torque wrench! Edited January 19, 2011 by Ironman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironman Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 (edited) Another Update: I dropped in the LS1 today. Here are some comments. Some people say to leave the headers on when you drop in the motor, I found it almost impossible to drop. Don't Buy a cheap hoist. (Purchase the largest rating,size you can afford) Heat Tape your brake and fuel lines. The reverse lockout solenoid can be eliminated by cutting the solenoid, a sealing her up with good ole RTV. The JCI mounts are worth their weight in gold. Go Ahead and purchase some polyurethane LS engine mounts. (Saves a lot of time later) I didn't feel like denting the tranny tunnel. So I used a Mustang t56 reverse light switch Cut the SkipShift Solenoid Removed the Reverse-Lockout Use a rubber expandable freeze plug (Stupid, I know, I might make a dent for this one) Above: There are **** tons of space in the front of the motor. Enough for a small swimming pool, OR some turbos Edited January 21, 2011 by Ironman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 I hate you because your car is beautiful!! Lol Jk it's awesome man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironman Posted February 2, 2011 Author Share Posted February 2, 2011 (edited) Tonik: LOL... Thanks UPDATE: I GOT IT STARTED!! Here is the video. Notes: I don't like rap music, my friend was playing it on his Iphone. I would lift up my pants, but I was too excited. I still have to diagnose why it takes so long to start(Any Ideas) Edited February 2, 2011 by Ironman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboHLS30 Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Congrats, what's up with your weird friend in the beginning of the vid? Any way, can't wait to see it going under its own power Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironman Posted February 2, 2011 Author Share Posted February 2, 2011 LOL, Thanks turbo. My friend is has a condition called "partial retardation", Just kidding, he just acting like an idiot. He does it a little too good though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboHLS30 Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 Haha if only you were closer, I'd come by and check it out. I need more friends my age that are into cars, especially Z's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLS357 Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 Awesome job man!! I'm in the process of doing some of the same stuff and your thread is motivating. Keep on keepin on! Also, what wheels are those? They look great! A.j. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironman Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 Hey BL, Thanks for the comment. The exact wheels that I have are Akuma 18 inch wheels wrapped on 225's. The problem is that the previous owner ran 1+ inch wheels spacers to fit everything. Plus it's a "universal" rim, with multiple lug spacings. (I think multi wheel spacing wheels are tacky) It does give the car a more aggressive look though, can't complain. My next update will probably be a go kart ride video. Later I will give a final report including: Part numbers Costs Things I would go back and change Pictures Videos Basically everything you need to know for an LS Swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 Wow, you've done a lot! Very nice. Oh to be young again and not have to be responsible . I wish I had the internet in the 80's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironman Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 (edited) Man its been over a month! School has been getting in the way this time. Here are the updates: -Fixed the long starting issue- MAP sensor signal wire was in the wrong pin for the PCM, Still takes about 2-3 seconds to start up though. I am going to replace the CMP Sensor for the hell of it. -My Dad and I made a bracket for the PCM. Looks a little ghetto but it has sentimental value to me -Rigged and De Ghetto rigged the fuel system, Everything is now tucked in much more cleanly. Don't have pics yet -I am having interference between the rack and the oil pan, still have to fix that. -Overkilled the Alternator cable, 1/0! -Got the exhaust fabbed for $100, crush bent though. -When I went to the exhaust guy and the car was on the lift, I noticed alot of my suspension related bolts were VERY loose! Remember to torque everything down! -Redid the fan, I discarded the Tarus fan, and ran a fan that my autotech teacher gave me, fits MUCH better. Its a single speed (Doesn't bother me) -The clearance between the steering rod and the headers is VERY close. Look at the pictures. Left to do: -Put in Exhaust -De Ghetto rig battery mounting. -Put back body -Clearance Oilpan and Steering Rack -Torque everything down -Alignment Time for the pictures: Above and Below: Fuel System while it is rigged Above and Below: Modification to the Pedal for increased throttle sensitivity Above: Rigged Battery Mounting Below: Rigged Fuel Setup Above- Exhaust with Borla 400286, 2.5" tubing, crush bent, dumped before the diff Below- Since I don't have any money, I had to "fabricate" my own shifter. (Doing a 2-3 Shift is starting to give me callus on my hand :lol: ) Above: Wiring for the Fan, For simplicities sake just go single speed. Below: The merging of the Datsun and LS1 Wiring, A bit of a birds nest if you ask me. I still have to do something about it. Above: The mount my dad and I made. I like the design, but the craftsmanship can be improved though. Below: This picture shows the clearances between the headers and the Steering Rod, Scares me a little. Considering how hot it gets. Above: The new fan, Much Cleaner and OEM looking. I have nothing bad to say about it. Edited March 15, 2011 by Ironman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironman Posted March 17, 2011 Author Share Posted March 17, 2011 (edited) Small Update: Put the body back together and put in the exhaust Yes I know the airdam isn't a perfect match. I will probably polish the entire car to match it to the airdam. I just need some more time. Video is below for the exhaust I used a Borla 400286 Dual in/Dual Out internal X pipe. Sounds really nice at high rpms. But when the engine is loaded, and at lower rpm, it resonates ALOT. Any questions just ask Video is coming soon it is still uploading, I will comeback and edit this post. Edited March 17, 2011 by Ironman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironman Posted March 28, 2011 Author Share Posted March 28, 2011 Not really an update but somewhat related. Went to the annual local Z meet. Here are the pictures. I still have to give my final report, including videos prices outs pros cons, what I would re do. etc. Just haven't really found the time. Before anyone points any fingers, the pictures were from local Z owners. I did not take any of these pictures. I did put it in to be judged, Lets just say its not a show car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koss Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 Good to see more young people here. 20 my self. I must say I am impressed by your build! Keep up the good work. Btw, what was the weight-difference between the engines? any big effects on the suspensions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironman Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 (edited) Koss: The suspension is basically the same. The ride is the same. I think it handles a little better, but I just think it is in my head. The I made technical overview videos, it is much more convenient and faster than a report. I am going to repost this post in the V8 section, in hope that people that need it, will actually see it. The video is close to 45 mins. Grab a sandwich and drink. Then watch. I made a couple of mistakes in the video: The input and outputs for the regulator is wrong. I used adapter fittings from home depot to hook up my brake booster. I didn't have to dent the tranny since. Mustang T56 Reverse Switch Deleted skip shift. Removed reverse lockout, then installed it back in once tranny was in place. I also did a price out with part numbers and prices. Heres a jpg. I will attach a pdf. Priceout Videos: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aH9YLuF9kkU Total Cost.pdf Edited April 4, 2011 by Ironman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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