simple Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 well, got my coil overs, removed my stock spring perches, ground the welds off, and ready to weld on the perches. the instructions say 5" front and 7" rear starting from the bottom. well, that looks a little low to me. ill have to grind off my brake line mounts too if i were to weld them on per instructions. are the instructions correct? I tried to search as much as i could before i posted this topic. I found the pictures of the GC installation instructions, and they are the same ones i got with my kit. this is going to just be a weekend driver, or sunny day car, and im not going to section the strut tubes. I found all my struts were blown (along with many other issues) and since im on a budget, and its not a race car, i was just going to order some tokico blue struts from MSA to replace the old ones. Id also like some input on the strut choice as well. the spring rates i got were 150 front and 175 rear. any help would be appriciated, this is my first post after all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nagaz Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 well, got my coil overs, removed my stock spring perches, ground the welds off, and ready to weld on the perches. the instructions say 5" front and 7" rear starting from the bottom. well, that looks a little low to me. ill have to grind off my brake line mounts too if i were to weld them on per instructions. are the instructions correct? I tried to search as much as i could before i posted this topic. I found the pictures of the GC installation instructions, and they are the same ones i got with my kit. this is going to just be a weekend driver, or sunny day car, and im not going to section the strut tubes. I found all my struts were blown (along with many other issues) and since im on a budget, and its not a race car, i was just going to order some tokico blue struts from MSA to replace the old ones. Id also like some input on the strut choice as well. the spring rates i got were 150 front and 175 rear. any help would be appriciated, this is my first post after all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nagaz Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 well, got my coil overs, removed my stock spring perches, ground the welds off, and ready to weld on the perches. the instructions say 5" front and 7" rear starting from the bottom. well, that looks a little low to me. ill have to grind off my brake line mounts too if i were to weld them on per instructions. are the instructions correct? I tried to search as much as i could before i posted this topic. I found the pictures of the GC installation instructions, and they are the same ones i got with my kit. this is going to just be a weekend driver, or sunny day car, and im not going to section the strut tubes. I found all my struts were blown (along with many other issues) and since im on a budget, and its not a race car, i was just going to order some tokico blue struts from MSA to replace the old ones. Id also like some input on the strut choice as well. the spring rates i got were 150 front and 175 rear. any help would be appriciated, this is my first post after all. Simple , This is key - You need to sections your struts to gain back suspension compression travel lost when you lowered your 240 by installing threaded collars & coil springs . If you don't shorten your struts the top sring retainer will smash into the top of the strut all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 well, got my coil overs, removed my stock spring perches, ground the welds off, and ready to weld on the perches. the instructions say 5" front and 7" rear starting from the bottom. well, that looks a little low to me. ill have to grind off my brake line mounts too if i were to weld them on per instructions. are the instructions correct? I tried to search as much as i could before i posted this topic. I found the pictures of the GC installation instructions, and they are the same ones i got with my kit. this is going to just be a weekend driver, or sunny day car, and im not going to section the strut tubes. I found all my struts were blown (along with many other issues) and since im on a budget, and its not a race car, i was just going to order some tokico blue struts from MSA to replace the old ones. Id also like some input on the strut choice as well. the spring rates i got were 150 front and 175 rear. any help would be appriciated, this is my first post after all. In the context of strut sectioning, those instructions are correct. For your situation you need to do some thinking about ride height, bump travel, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simple Posted May 25, 2010 Author Share Posted May 25, 2010 Well, if I section my strut tubes, I'll have to find shorter struts as well, probably being more expensive. Right? I can't section my struts and expect the stock length replacements to fit can I? I read the FAQ about why, and understand the concept of the lost travel, not as concerned about that as I am getting my z back on the road. I donT mind the lost travel, I only drive it maybe twice a month. I don't want anything to be contactig eachother though. Any other thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burninator Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 I'm not an expert, but I just did this so I'll just give you some ideas for consideration. You need to take into account the stock spring perch location, the free length of the stock springs, and the sag of the stock springs. Then compare those to the free length of the new springs, the expected sag of the new springs, and the change in ride height you want. Here are some numbers for example (I'm just pulling this stuff out of the air). If your new springs are 2 inches shorter you probly want raise the perch height by 2 inches. If your new springs will sag 1 inch less than your old ones you probly want to lower the perch back down an inch. If you wanted to lower your car 1 inch you probly need to lower the perch another inch. Then if your collar is 5" long and you want to be in the middle of your collar (not crucial, but it may give you a buffer to be wrong on some of this stuff or to change your spring rate someday) then you probly want to weld the ring for the collar to sit on 2.5 inches below that. Then do some thinking and make sure you will have antiquate room for the pieces and enough suspension travel without hitting something and adjust from there. Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for being wrong here, I'm just telling you what I did and it ended up that I was a bit off. I welded it on about an inch lower than I should have, but the 2 inches of adjustment either way on the adjustable collars saved me. So take my advice with a grain of salt. I didn't follow the 5" and 7" recommendation because my springs were only 8" instead of the 10" from the write-up and I'm running pretty stiff springs (350F/300R). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyc Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 the sleeves on my GC were more than long enought to put where ever i wanted....i just put the top of the perch about 1" below the top of the strut tube...this gave me the option to go as low as i want...and move the collar all the way down to the bottom of the sleeve and i can look like a 4x4 too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shika805 Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 i did what bobby C did, with the ground control kit you can adjust your ride height but you really need to be careful not to drop it too low, you might bottom out your struts. That is the risk you take, if you know how much travel you have and what ride height is acceptable then you can be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simple Posted June 2, 2010 Author Share Posted June 2, 2010 Indeed, I did a bit of searching. (for a couple days) i figure ill section my struts, use the MR2 rear strut inserts up front, and the front 240z struts in the rear. looks like that's what everyone else is doing i think. Ill try and take some pictures of the build and do a step by step.... I was trying to get out of it on the cheap. DIDN'T WORK. in fact, i mentioned previously all the new suspension/brake stuff i found out i needed... well i just bought all that crap too... new: rear brakes stainless steel brake lines front lower ball joints front upper strut bearings front tie rod ends I'm sure ill need even more as i go along, haven't even bought the struts yet.... and all this for a sunny day driver... im beginning to develop a love/hate with this car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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