Rust, too far gone?

[ClockWork]

I've talked with friends about this, and can't come up with a definitive answer. I have this '81 280ZX Coupe, my first car. The rust is significant, as you can see in the pictures. I love this car, and I really wish I could restore it, but money doesn't grow on trees. So, I'm asking you guys (the experts), if this car is too far gone, or if there's still hope for her. It sat in a field for six years in SE New Mexico after I blew the engine by being careless. This is what I found when I finally got it into a garage. These pictures are the major portions, and don't include various smaller spots all over the frame/chassis. The entire underbody is various shades of rust, though there are few holes. I've got three estimates, by these pictures alone, ranging from $2,000 to "can't be done", and none included paint or underbody coating. So, any ideas?

 

Driver side front frame.

 

Passenger side front frame.

 

Driver side floor pan. (Both sides pretty much done for)

 

Driver side dogleg.

 

Passenger side dogleg.

[emeraldlion]

Well, if you search through the body and welding subforums you'll see plenty of cars that have rust WAY worse than yours and have been revived so it's do-able. If someone quoted you $2000 to repair all of that rust I'd be a little leary of the work they were doing, that seems like a VERY low estimate to repair. I think that if you were to find a 280zx that is near rust free and painted/modified it you would still be staying true to the car without throwing big dollars at it. All that said it's your car and only you can decide, but I have a feeling this will be the general concensus unless you can do the work yourself and have a fair amount of time.

[z2go]

If you are going to do the work... and you want the car to last more than a few seasons, this is what I think you should do, based on personal experience:

 

Get the body sandblasted, should run between 1000 and 1500, and more to get it primered to protect the metal. That will eliminate all of the rust, and give you a clean slate. Plus, you might have a lot more metal missing than you think... areas where there are no holes will magically be swiss cheese after sandblasting, because areas can be rusted through, yet still hold their shape.

 

After sandblasting, weld in new panels or frankenstein your car with good solid parts of donor cars... if you pay to have this part done, you are looking at more than the car is worth, several times over. If you can weld, or can take a class in welding, that will cut down a lot of your cost. New panels are going to cost a lot of money, though.

 

 

So, to keep cost down, like emeraldlion said, you are going to have to do most if not all the work. If you want someone to do it, it's not going to be worth it, unless there is extreme sentimental value in the car.

 

But, that too is just my opinion.

[Indri]

I'm no expert but that seems to me like it's a little far gone. But like others have said, it's all how much the car is worth too you. If it holds sentimental values, then I would say go for it. If you're deterred by the 2K price tag for those estimates (which seem low)then you probably don't have the funds to tackle such a project. It would make a good donor car though.

 

 

Just my $0.02

[dernikmatute2008]

I'm no expert but that seems to me like it's a little far gone. But like others have said, it's all how much the car is worth too you. If it holds sentimental values, then I would say go for it. If you're deterred by the 2K price tag for those estimates (which seem low)then you probably don't have the funds to tackle such a project. It would make a good donor car though.

 

 

Just my $0.02

 

well from what i see in the pictures it seems far gone...... my S130 was in seemingly Perfect condition untill she was tore down for a paint shift.....

Edited June 22, 2010 by dernikmatute2008

[Challenger]

For $2000 you can get a nice ZX shell... As stated, if theres an attachment to the car go for it, start to learn how to weld and do metal work. If not find yourself a better platform.

[Brad-ManQ45]

I have an '83ZXT and I have a welder and know how to use it. I have replaced half a firewall and half an inner fender panel and part of the battery tray on mine, have yet to take out the windshield and get to the bubbling at the top edge and any rust in the windshield channels, and have a bit of rust behind the driver's rear wheel opening.

 

That's all the rust on mine.

 

If it were my car, I personally would look for another shell.

[ClockWork]

Thanks for the input. Looks like I'll park the ol' girl, and hopefully find another car to work with. Finding even a parts car in my area is near impossible, so I'll be in for a roadtrip soon. Heheh. Not gonna give up on this one though, a buddy of mine is going to teach me to weld/fabricate, and $1,100 gets the car sandblasted and coated for future restoration.

[Challenger]

I wouldnt reccomend paying 1100 dollars just to set it aside. If you do that and then buy another car to restore, I doubt youd ever get back to this one.. youd be just wasting your money.

[ModernS30]

A while back I looked at a much cleaner 79 280zx for 1000 in Santa Fe. If you are in Hobbs I would just say take your time and find another car that is worth it. Go to the albuquerquez.com and talk to the guys on there. Ask for nelson, he may have a good shell. Last I recalled he had a decent running 81 turbo. No promises but if you are looking for a car, he will find it. In New Mexico there are lots of cleaner rust free cars.

[sticky280zx]

i can tell you right now that i know of a pretty clean RUNNER that is here in Dallas, only want 1k for it. It is an auto but a swap is simple enough and alot easier than welding everything, also its still in promer so you can paint it...and any lip, spoiler, or kit you want all at the same time if you plan on it. Let me know if you are interested as the owner i think has posted it already but for alot more(he said he'd give me the buddy discount). my email is datsundriver88@hotmail.com or you can PM me on here -Jeff