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What fuel pump are you running with your triples?


turboHLS30

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Here is some info about my setup: I have 40mm Mikuni's on a L24 with a blowthru turbo setup. I was wondering what fuel pumps you guys are running with your triples and if there are any extra things that I should add or lookout for when I am installing a pump and running my triples. Sorry if it's worded weird but it's easier to explain through talking than it is through typing. If you don't understand then just ask and I'll figure out a way to explain better.

 

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3.5 psi at idle, rising equivalent with boost. Webers work at 3.5 psi, and all you need do is run the pressure via a boost-referenced regulator to keep it 3.5 psi above boost.

less that that, and you loose float bowl level and run lean, more and you run higher levels and consequently rich.

 

Read Yetterbens' threads on his buildup (start of something awesome) and what he went through with his blow-through DCOE18's.

 

I preferred Mikuini's myself, and went to EFI for the stuff you will read about in Bens' thread. Thing was, I didn't have to change my fuel pump when I went EFI! Just the regulator setting. :)

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In NA form. I ran a Holly Red. I'm sure its one of the more popular due to its over the counter availability at most speed shops. Tony has it right. 3.5 psi.. no more, and accuracy counts with webers. Run 4psi and you will end up with either rich or some weird jet combo, and you will argue how you ran all this hp on 125 mains, or more likely that you have fuel pouring out the carbs and setting the car on fire! Sorry for the sarcasm there..I have a long history with webers...I miss them sometimes.

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A Holley Red, Blue, or now Black will detonate like hell on a blowthrough turbo at 12psi in the manifold. Those pumps can only make 15psi, and for a 10psi turbosystem I would consider them marginal at best.

 

The stock EFI pump will support fuel flows at higher pressures and is FAR quieter.

 

By 3.5psi, I mean 3.5psi referenced to manifold (same as the EFI cars, set differential across the orifice.)

 

You need a boost referenced FPR so that the setting you set stays where it's supposed to be: 3.5psig above boost pressure. At 10 psi, you should have 13.5psig fuel pressure to the carbs.

 

If you don't manifold reference, you will start running lean at "0" manifold pressure, and progressively get worse from there. In extreme cases I've seen boost pressure blow into the gas tank and blow a vent line off due to no FPR and using a fuel pump with no check valve!

 

Like I said, read yetterbens post.

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