260DET Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 Looking at putting a crate LS2 with a modified 4L60E auto trans into a RHD S130. From available measurements the LS is about the same length as the present VG30DET and a touch narrower. Crank centerline height measurements are a bit harder to find, they are important because they dictate how low the LS can be mounted while still clearing the Xmember and steering rack at the front. Does anyone know how far the LS block extends down past the crank centerline? This together with oil pan measurements will help me work out the engine mounting height. Also relevant is whats available in the way of low profile oil pans baffled for road course racing use, remote mounting of the oil filter is OK. I have done some research but advice based on personal experience is always useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted July 15, 2010 Share Posted July 15, 2010 Sounds like a cool project, although I can't help you much with most of the S130 questions as I don't think I've even sat in one. The lowest profile factory LSx oil pans are the '98-'02 F-Body and the Corvette LS2 oil pan (same pan the GM LS2 crate motor comes with). I have an 6.0 sitting on an engine stand for a customer, I will get those crankshaft/block centerline measurements ASAP. In the meantime, maybe these will help you: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted July 15, 2010 Author Share Posted July 15, 2010 Yes those are the pics I have referred to, very useful. Need to get the total engine height down from 27.5" to ~26" max, preferably a bit less, so perhaps a well baffled steel aftermarket pan. Something like a Autokraft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 (edited) Unfortunately I now have the sump (oil pan) on so I can't be too accurate with this dimension, other than to say I just now measured the depth of the windage tray originally fitted to this Holden engine at 35mm. I would take that as your minimum depth of a fabricated pan. If this is for road use you must have a minimum 10mm clearance between the engine and chassis here in Oz. I've swapped to an LS2 pan for use in my S30. Hope this helps. Note: The windage tray in the photo is not firmly fitted into position. Edited July 16, 2010 by Boy from Oz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted July 16, 2010 Author Share Posted July 16, 2010 Thanks B from O, that is helpful and makes me wonder if that OE windage tray will fit in the Autokraft sump/pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted July 17, 2010 Share Posted July 17, 2010 Thanks B from O, that is helpful and makes me wonder if that OE windage tray will fit in the Autokraft sump/pan. Do you actually need a windage tray with the Autocraft sump? If you need one it would be pretty straightforward to make yourself. Have you considered modifying an LS2 by aluminium welding to your own shallow front configuration. I think someone on here did that on a abortive 300zx install. Perhaps you could pick up a cheap front sump pan from a wreckers and have a play with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted July 18, 2010 Author Share Posted July 18, 2010 I would not trust a stock sump/pan for circuit racing/road course use, will hook up an Accusump as well to make extra sure. Yeh I could make a windage tray, have done that before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted July 18, 2010 Author Share Posted July 18, 2010 For anyone else wondering about this, here are some dimensions of a LS truck engine which incidentially is only ~10mm deeper from crank center line to bottom of the sump/oil pan than my VG engine fitted with a VG30DETT sump/oil pan is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted July 18, 2010 Share Posted July 18, 2010 I would not trust a stock sump/pan for circuit racing/road course use... Agree - but all you need to retain from an OEM oil pan are the crankcase and bellhousing mounting points, the rest is free including any baffling you care to include, and a modified pick-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted July 19, 2010 Author Share Posted July 19, 2010 (edited) Yes, perhaps a fabricated steel baffle and trapdoor setup could be bolted in too. The good thing is it looks like a stock sump/oil pan will not hang below the front Xmember so the LS conversion should be practical providing the lube system is thought through. Edited July 19, 2010 by 260DET Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zed240au Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 well going from my experience i would suggest a improved windage tray if you plan any track work took my first ls1 to track day ran number 6 bearing and demolished motor in 4 laps of symons plains It smashed rod piston windage tray wrecked crank block broke timing chain and bent 6 valves Motor was out of a wreck 98 model so maybe had some damage but have bought a improved racing windage tray for my new 04 motor just as little insurance and will be watching oil pressure like a hawk in future was just having so much fun i forgot And symons is known for being tough on bearings mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted July 21, 2010 Author Share Posted July 21, 2010 Yep, no point in having a good motor if it won't hold together. Presently thinking is a crate L76 with a Comp or Camtech cam, springs, etc and MoTec management should be the go. Just realised that those fabricated sumps like the Autokraft above do not bolt to the transmission so reducing the overall strength of the engine and transmission as a unit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zed240au Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 Im running c.o.m.e racing cam with there spring package making good hp have you thought about running std computer with number of tuners around now its a good way to go be able to fit and tune it for less than cost of a motec and think how much GM spent developing it they are brillant computers mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 Im running c.o.m.e racing cam with there spring package making good hp have you thought about running std computer with number of tuners around now its a good way to go be able to fit and tune it for less than cost of a motec and think how much GM spent developing it they are brillant computers mick It's a lot easier to get your point across if you punctuate correctly. That being said, yes, the OEM computers are quite capable of handling much more power than you'll ever need. And another valid point; there are PLENTY of competent tuners out there. All it takes is basic engine theory, and running a spreadsheet, and you can tune! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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