BLOZ UP Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 The stainless will heat soak too, it just takes longer. I think the heat the air picks up from the piping itself is going to be minimal--or at least not worth rerouting everything to try and ensure it never sees warm air. It would probably just be easier and more effective to get a slightly taller intercooler to make up for the difference. What I don't understand are people who have their compressor inlets right next to the radiator. That's just adding 30+ degrees to the intake temps for no reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger280zx Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Yeah, the good ole' cold air intake where the filter is next to the coil that is cooling the whole engine! Mine is on a 45* pointed down right off of the turbo. It felt like 20-30 hp from the clogged filter that was slammed behind the headlight where it was getting NO airflow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datsun Deron Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 I purchased a CX Racing intercooler pipe kit from ebay for mine from a seller called "Just-Intercoolers" he had an auction where you could pick 8 or so pipes for a set price (whatever bends you wanted). Once I got them it took a few hours of cutting and aligning but im happy with the result. The only downside is I'd prefer my air filter to be in front of the radiator or pull in cooler air somehow. Since all the pipes are on one side of the car it makes it tough to fit another one through there. I might look at building a box around the air filter to pull in air from under the car. My intercooler is a spearco same side unit as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 (edited) Looks good. After viewing before and after logs and a couple dyno runs of a car with a hot air intake and cold air intake, I moved mine to the front of the car. IATs are now 20 degrees (F) less all around. PS - I don't drive in the rain. Edited May 27, 2012 by BLOZ UP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datsun Deron Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 Rain would be free water injection Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan95i4 Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Do any of you guys that have already done FMIC installs happen to have the dimensions of the rad support, in particular the distance between the two openings everyone passed their piping through? Im wondering if any of these ebay intercoolers with endtanks in this style: http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=IC0044-350&Category_Code= happen to correspond with those openings to avoid using 90* couplers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid240z Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Bloz Up, can you post some data showing before and after moving the intake. I think most of us would be really interested in the results. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 Bloz Up, can you post some data showing before and after moving the intake. I think most of us would be really interested in the results. Thanks. MAT is the white line on the bottom graph of each picture. Before: After: Note that the car was a bit hotter in the before, but still... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid240z Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 My air filter will be close to the turbo when I get the engine running, but I have thought about moving it too. A colder air intake temp sounds great but was also wondering if you saw a difference in hp and torque during the dyno runs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 My air filter will be close to the turbo when I get the engine running, but I have thought about moving it too. A colder air intake temp sounds great but was also wondering if you saw a difference in hp and torque during the dyno runs? I've had this car on the dyno just once, and the CAI was installed. The before is from a drive around, the after is on the dyno during the first pull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid240z Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78zstyle Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 (edited) Pro tip: Don't buy 3 inch piping. It took me so long to cut up everything to get it to fit, it almost doesn't.. When I open or close my hood it rubs on my 90 deg bends off the IC, I need to fix that.. Gotta get my BOV and air temp sensor welded on. Edited July 16, 2012 by 78zstyle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage-TechZ Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Pro tip: Don't buy 3 inch piping. It took me so long to cut up everything to get it to fit, it almost doesn't.. When I open or close my hood it rubs on my 90 deg bends off the IC, I need to fix that.. Gotta get my BOV and air temp sensor welded on. Careful placement and planning of your clamps and joints will avoid rubbing. This goes with any system install I've found. I've had 3" in place for both IC and full exhaust -( like many on this forum)....with no issues of fitment or rubbing-(even in engine twist in regards to mounts). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 In Maximum Boost by Corky Bell, he lays out how to calculate what size piping is required. In my case where my goal was ~300 whp, 2.25" pipe was more than adequate. Going larger only makes it harder to install. It's worth taking the time to do the calculations to properly size the turbo and IC piping for your power goals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 Pro tip: Don't buy 3 inch piping. It took me so long to cut up everything to get it to fit, it almost doesn't.. When I open or close my hood it rubs on my 90 deg bends off the IC, I need to fix that.. Gotta get my BOV and air temp sensor welded on. Did you end up cutting the radiator support at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78zstyle Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 Yeah nick i had to notch it pretty good on both sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vonlam43 Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 I'm very new to this whole turbo setup but could any of you guys maybe help me out on how you incorporated the afm in the system. I'm currently in the process of putting the setup on a N/A 77 280z and am very confused on how this is all supposed to fit. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redzedturbo Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 http://www.cardomain.com/id/Ernie%20Ramey here is my same side setup with 2.25 aluminum pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randall Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 (edited) Do any of you guys that have already done FMIC installs happen to have the dimensions of the rad support, in particular the distance between the two openings everyone passed their piping through? Im wondering if any of these ebay intercoolers with endtanks in this style: http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=IC0044-350&Category_Code= happen to correspond with those openings to avoid using 90* couplers i was wondering the same thing but i think im just going to spend my money on the treadstone tr8 http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=29&cat_key=63&prodname=TR8+Intercooler++500HP the intercooler you posted looks like it would be close. The openings in the car on the inside edges are about 28.5 inches apart. May have to contact the manufacturer and see what the specs on those are. Edited November 6, 2012 by Randall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan95i4 Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 i was wondering the same thing but i think im just going to spend my money on the treadstone tr8 http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=29&cat_key=63&prodname=TR8+Intercooler++500HP the intercooler you posted looks like it would be close. The openings in the car on the inside edges are about 28.5 inches apart. May have to contact the manufacturer and see what the specs on those are. I did just that and the distance between the inlet and outlet was 28.25" apart, so very close, and may be an option to consider for others. I ended up going with a different fmic though, 12x20x3 core (27" total width) with the traditional endtanks like the one you posted and I'm just using 90* couplers to bring the openings through the radiator support openings like a lot of people do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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