cruceno21 Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 Okay so I have searched... and I have read the stuff here (http://www.atlanticz...inks/index.html) and also looked at the 75 Wiring Diagram (attached). I have a couple questions. For the 76 and up, it is clear in the wiring diagrams that the White wires all go to the starter for power. The RW ones go to their respective items. (each fusible link has a white wire to it, and a RW wire) So now for my 75 (originally an auto but swapped to man) the alternator link has two W wires going to it, and the ignition one has both RW wires going to/from it. Now some of this might be from my swap done by the PO, but I have no white wire to the starter. I have the battery cable and smaller red cable. I have not had the time yet to strip down the entire harness to see what that red white goes to, and where the W and RW wires go. I am assuming that red white is not stock (looks newer) and is supposed to be the white wire that I would replace with a thicker wire to my fuse block. So which wires are the power to the link and which ones are the out wire that would be the ones coming out of the fuse block? As far as a wire directly from the starter on the 75 there is only one, and it one of the white wires coming from the (alternator) black link. I have the bracket out of the car and I am painting it right now. All the wires are all still hooked up, just laying in there without the bracket right now. If I get this all done I can do a write up and post pictures of how this is done on a 75. I just can't read this diagram well enough to know which side of the links are my "out" wires that I need to keep and which ones I ditch. Bonus question... the seat belt relay, can I just remove that? Mine was an AT so it has it, but it was swapped so if that is not needed I won't reinstall it. One less thing to bolt under the bracket when I put it back in. Thanks guys. 75_schematic_diagram.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z240 Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 Just keep it simple. It really helps to print the diagram out and color the lines that you want to stare at. I've attached a revised version of your document with the lines in question in red with some arrows. See if that helps. Then use your multi-meter to check which link socket terminals are connected to the starter and/or alternator, with the links removed from their terminals. Make a drawing of how the fusible links are hooked up BEFORE you remove them just so you don't confuse them later. Good luck. Jim 75_schematic_diagram_withLines.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruceno21 Posted August 9, 2010 Author Share Posted August 9, 2010 I penciled them in the manual I have.... but it doesn't help. I am not electrician either... but from the drawing I want to fuse the wires that go to the Alt and to C-5. Right? IF so that is the two WR wires right? So is the Fusible link box have the wires not coming into it matched with the jumper wires? I am confused... I can take pics of my set up later when I start chasing wires. I was hoping someone had the answer like the two front wires, or the two WR ones... thought this was going to be easier. Other thoughts on reading this diagram? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruceno21 Posted August 11, 2010 Author Share Posted August 11, 2010 (edited) I always document my projects with pics... I am just not good at wiring. I need to get a multilmetter, but am wondering what would I be measuring? If I have the battery discounted while doing electrical work it won't read anything right? If I leave the battery hooked up, should I cut the wires below the fusible link box and measure across those? Also, can I toss the seat belt relay since it says those are only for auto trans and mine has been swapped? Some pics of me removing the bracket. Edited August 11, 2010 by cruceno21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuoWing Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 In my 76 280Z I don't have any section for the white wiring running to the starter motor post either. I'm not sure what happened to it. Maybe those fusible links aren't even doing anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruceno21 Posted August 12, 2010 Author Share Posted August 12, 2010 I start cutting the tape off... lots of the wires (as it shows in the diagram) just go to the shunt. All that is for is for the voltmeter right? I want to go with an aftermarket one soon so I am wondering if I should just cut all of that out? I have seen gauges that come with their own wiring and stuff and then I can hide that a little better. The harness is spliced a lot, all factory spices from what I can tell but it is messy and I am really worried I am going to end up with some loose connections after I do all of this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruceno21 Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 Confirmed. Only one wire comes from the battery to the Fusible link. It is the white wire which the other side goes to the shunt and then alternator (the 80amp) The 40 amp hsa two WR wires and bother go back into the wireharness heading towards the cabin. So how do I check which one is power? COULD I.... Wire the fuse block in, get power from the starter, I know the white out wire will come from the 80 amp fuse. What if I take both of the WR wires and run them out of 40 amp fuses? One of them would be supplying power and one taking.... then I could pull each fuse to see which one doesn't do anything? Because that is the ignition switch one. If I remove the one which is doing something it won't start? So then I know which one is good and which one I can remove? Or do I need to keep both of those wires? I wish I had a 77-78 like all the write ups... OR should I wait on this mod until I learn more about wiring, get an voltmeter and then do the Alt upgrade at the same time? Help please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruceno21 Posted August 14, 2010 Author Share Posted August 14, 2010 Here is what the wiring looks like.... white to white and WR to WR. Just trying to find some help here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuoWing Posted August 19, 2010 Share Posted August 19, 2010 (edited) Actually, this looks correct. For a moment I thought something was all messed up, but I started looking over the wiring diagrams for the 75' 280Z and it shows W to W for the Black link and WR to WR for the green. The only real problem is you just need to figure out which to cut and put into the distribution block. Are you positive you don't have a wire connecting down at the starter? I for some reason when I was looking around thought I didn't have the wire either. For some reason I just didn't notice it, but I do have the extra white wire on the starter. Unless the previous owner did a heck of a job splicing the wires and nicely wrapping them back into the harness it should be quite obvious if it's been modified or not. Actually looking at your pictures you posted that looks pretty stock and unmodified up at the fusible link box there. Other than the link that's just been redone with new connectors, I'd say that's how it came from the factory. Edited August 19, 2010 by DuoWing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruceno21 Posted August 20, 2010 Author Share Posted August 20, 2010 I do have a a white wire to the starter, but that wire goes directly to the white "in" on the alternator fusible link. So I know on that one which line will come out of the fusible link. The problem is how to know which is the out wire on the other fusible link. I got a voltmeter and this weekend am going to play around and see if which of the sides shows power when I disconnect the link. That should tell me which one is sending power into the fusible link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuoWing Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 (edited) That would be the best way to do it. Once you've got that figured out you can just cut those on out, slap in your maxifuse holder and be rid of those fusible links. As for the wiring, I just assume Nissan decided to change the way that was wired when it came to the 76 model year, as with the fact that they added 2 more fusible links. Edited August 20, 2010 by DuoWing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viet_83 Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 sorry for reviving this thread. i also have 1975 and attempting to do this upgrade. Were you able to figure out which wires (2 WR and 2 W) should be routed correctly and which amp to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viet_83 Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 someone must have the 1975. hoping to get some help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 This might help - http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/75_280z_wiring.pdf The fusible links are shown in the left third at the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viet_83 Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Thank you very much for the diagram. According to the diagram on the fusible link, this is what I came up with: One white wire on the left side is routed to the shunt and other white wire on the right is routed to the starter. If I want to eliminate the shunt, I can convert the ammeter to voltimeter using the '76 or later voltimeter (I'll look into on how to convert it to voltimeter since I think the '76 or later do not have shunt, please correct me if I am wrong). After doing that, I'll ground the distribution block to the starter without using the white wire as what the instruction from http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html did for the '76 or later 280z. The WR wire on the left side is routed to the alternator and the other WR on the right side is routed to the C-5. I am not familiar with C-5, so is that the ignition switch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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