getting all my ducks in a row...

[mustangfu]

So, I've done a few simple swaps before, but never in a Z, and never into something of a different automaker (i.e. I've only swapped bigger Ford motors into Mustangs and done a few Honda swaps) so I know *basically* what is involved. However, I've never fabricated...well, anything really. I can weld basic stuff (been a few years) but that's about it. With my fabrication work, I imagine I can have a shop do the dirty work.

 

That's the run down on my situation as a builder. Now, the project I plan to tackle. I'm keeping my eye out for a 240Z that's relatively rust-free and (mostly for cost reasons) drivetrain-less. I'm all kinds of crazy about the new Ford 5.0 "coyote" engine, and I plan on shoving it in the Z. It's something like 430lbs dressed and will bolt up to a t-56 so that's cool with me. Ford also offers a control pack that allows you to install the engine in pretty much anything you can squeeze it in without having a headache about wiring and ECU issues. I guess the real concern will come with motor mounts, how far back I can mount it in relation to the t-56, and how much the whole damn thing is going to cost. I'm *trying* to keep total build cost around 10-13k, but we'll see how that goes in time. Also, I was thinking of making things in the rear a bit easier by swapping in a shortened Ford 8.8, it all depends on the more dependable route and if it's actually possible.

 

Anyway, has anyone done this swap yet? Probably not, but it's always better to ask. What kind of hurdles am I looking to jump by taking this project on? Is my total build cost reasonable? Are there many companies dedicated to providing aftermarket parts for classic Z's (such as suspension kits, exterior/interior mods, etc)?

 

Thanks for your time, and God bless America.

 

--Will Z

[cockerstar]

Swapping in a narrowed 8.8 is doable, but I wouldn't call it the easiest, cheapest, or quickest way of building a bullet-proof rear end

Do some searching on swapping in an r-200 diff and building it up with CV axles and your choice of LSD unit.

 

I really can't be of much help with your other questions / concerns since I don't know, well, anything about the coyote engine, but it sure sounds like a great and unique project!

[mxgsfmdpx]

Swapping in a narrowed 8.8 is doable, but I wouldn't call it the easiest, cheapest, or quickest way of building a bullet-proof rear end

Do some searching on swapping in an r-200 diff and building it up with CV axles and your choice of LSD unit.

 

I really can't be of much help with your other questions / concerns since I don't know, well, anything about the coyote engine, but it sure sounds like a great and unique project!

 

The other cool part about using an R200 diff is there are a couple manufacturers who sell everything you need to get it to bolt up to the Z, aka no fabrication on your end.

 

Also JCI, (John's Cars/Broken Kitty) sells a driveshaft that goes from the T56 to the R200 Diff.

[dsommer]

For your rear end set up.

Modern MS

I think this would save you a lot of time and money in the long run.

 

I'd also consider paying a bit (or quite a bit) more for as rust free car as you can find. Trust me so many of us have traveled down this road it's no longer funny.

 

You may want to consider buying somebodys project that has been modified already, you could sell off the extra parts to offset the purchase price of the car, just more food for thought.

 

Here is a darn good starting point for a roller.

Dragonfly FS

Edited October 6, 2010 by dsommer

[mustangfu]

Thanks for the replies so far I will definitely consider the R200 diff, but aren't z32's hard to launch in the first place? I mean, anything can be braced and whatnot to eliminate wheelhop, but I just want to know that on the odd occasion it is taken down the track it can do it competently. I plan on doing a little road racing, or autocross, when the chance arises (the reason I asked if anyone sells a straightforward aftermarket suspension kit).

 

Thanks again all

[dsommer]

Thanks for the replies so far I will definitely consider the R200 diff, but aren't z32's hard to launch in the first place? I mean, anything can be braced and whatnot to eliminate wheelhop, but I just want to know that on the odd occasion it is taken down the track it can do it competently. I plan on doing a little road racing, or autocross, when the chance arises (the reason I asked if anyone sells a straightforward aftermarket suspension kit).

 

Thanks again all

 

Time to start searching and reading. Where are you coming up with a Z32 is hard to launch? You're planning on building a S30 (240,260,280) body style car. A Z32 is a 3rd generation Z. A member on this board had done a wheel stand with an R-200, go search you'll find all the information you need.

[mustangfu]

Well, I've been a 300zx enthusiast for a while, I owned a 90 n/a for a while till the motor crapped out on me a few months after I bought it. Anyway, the general consensus has always been that they are difficult to launch hard without aftermarket braces and ball bearing bushings. I don't think it's a rear-end issue as much as a suspension setup issue. Are there suspension setups here that I can take a look at, parts-list-wise, so I know what I'm going to have to do underneath the car?

[dsommer]

The ideal set up is a CLSD (R-200) with a cv axel conversion. The link I posted above for MML rearend set up is going to be the most economical route as you won't have to "hunt" down/fabricate the parts, just the rear dif and axels. My rear set up is a CLSD with the MML adaptors with 280ZX turbo cv axels Ron Tyler dif mount (RT mount) and a custom brace to allow me to run the finned rear end cover

 

 

 

 

It's kind of hard to see the RT mount but it goes up inside the transmission tunnel then an Energy Suspension GM transmission poly mount sandwiches inbetween the nose of the dif and the RT mount. The bottom of the dif attaches with a stock Datsun isolator to the X member.

Edited October 7, 2010 by dsommer

[dsommer]

Here is a link to my build thread if you'd like to check it out.

 

1 TUF ZGZ

[Gollum]

If you were to go the coyote route, I'd source the new getrag 6 speed if it's reasonably priced. Supposed to be much stronger than the old tremec's and shift much smoother.