Are these floor pans ready for POR15?

[revlis240]

Ive spent 7-8 hours getting the factory sound deadening material off the floor and cleaning them up with a wire wheel on my grinder. Please see the pics and let me know if you think theyre ready for POR15. As i understand it, im supposed to use the Metal Ready and then brush the POR15 on. Supposedly, you dont want to remove the rust and have a shiny surface, you want the floors to look like this before POR15. Right? Advice appreciated! Thanks guys

 

Im picking up a quart of por15 tomorrow, should be enough for the floors right? Also, i think the rear trunk area has already been POR'ed in the past, the part behind the drivers seat was a PITA to strip. Whatever the black stuff was/is, its strong.

 

 

Thanks guys!

[cygnusx1]

I have always had the strongest bond with POR15, over rust just like you have on your floors right now.  I would be mostly worried about the bond on the clean metal.  I suppose that's what the metal ready is for.  I used the MR and the POR-15 engine block kit on my semi rusty block, and it looks good as new almost 8 years later.   The paint feels hard as ceramic. 

[madkaw]

Well they want you to use the marine clean first, then metal ready, then por-15. If you haven't tried the marine clean-it is awesome stuff for getting things very clean-no grease. I think they want you to use the metal ready on everythng you paint, it helps prep clean metal and treat the rusty stuff too. Looks like you have the ideal canidate for this stuff!

[revlis240]

some tiny bits of the goop that held the sound deadening material is still stuck to the floor, if you look carefully youll see it. You dont think i have to scrape it ALL off do you? that would take another 5 hours...

[blue72]

Will POR-15 stick well to light rust? Yes, very very well. Will POR-15 stick to clean, smooth metal? No, not at all, in fact it will peel right off.

 

I have never used their Marine-Clean or Metal-Ready products. My personal method involves hand or random orbital sanding all metal surfaces with 40-60 grit sandpaper. I make sure to scuff any and all surfaces that the POR will be applied to. Including the crevices where the floor pans dip, inside and outside edges of the seat support rails, everything I can reasonably reach. I sand down any spots with light rust the same way. I don't worry if it didn't remove all of the rust because I know that it adheres excellently to rusty, pitted surfaces. After sanding I break out the shop-vac and remove all of the paint / rust / metal. That's it. Two coats of POR-15 later and that stuff will not come off for anything.

 

Also, POR-15 will adhere really well to a freshly sandblasted surface. Basically, it has to have something rough to grab on to.

[revlis240]

good advice, so I will 40-60 grit the trans tunnel (theres no rust on it and its smooth), and scuff up as much of the floor pan as i can before applying the POR. Thanks guys! Hopefully itll come out looking good.

[z2go]

Try the Marine Clean on that residue, it might get it off like you are looking. Put it in a spray bottle and spray it on, keeping it wet for, say, a half hour. Don't breath it in though, it'll make you cough, at the very least. I would do as the others said and prep the fresh shiny metal, and the light rust can technically be painted right over, as long as there's nothing that can flake off. I would not paint over the glue, because your bond will be glue to POR, not POR to metal. Who knows how it sticks to glue... I know that it peels right off of the plastic cup I use for painting once it's dried, as it is a urethane based material. I wouldn't trust the glue.

[cygnusx1]

 Yes, spend the extra time to get it spotless, you WILL NOT want to try to chip off the POR to do it again later.  That would be tough.  

 

Here is a neat trick with POR-15.  Pour a small puddle of it onto waxed paper and lay a plastic cup on its side into the puddle.  Let it cure and them take the little model you just made of spilt black paint and put it on the hood or roof of a buddies car.  Make sure you film their reaction!  It's the painters version of "plastic poop".  

 

 

Edited October 21, 2010 by cygnusx1

[revlis240]

10+ hours in these floors and theyre still not done! Next step, sound deadening!

 

TIP FOR THOSE WANTING TO POR15 - MAKE SURE YOU STIR THE CAN.

I didnt stir the bottom and my first coat was useless, it was

almost transparant. Then i figured that most of the "silver"

was settled at the bottom of the can and the second coat went nice and thick.

 

I like the way it turned out. From above to this:

 

 

[wolfalp1592]

Looks great

[Wedge]

If you can put some inside the rear holes behind the seats like we see on picture 2 and everywhere you see rust it will prevent further damage .

[revlis240]

just an update on the process, another 2.5 hours doing the passenger side sound deadening. Not a professional quality installation I know, but I lack the desire and the patience to trim the prices perfectly! A simple hammer on the floor sound test shows an amazing difference between the 2 sides. Im happy.