2eighTZ4me Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 No - it actually states in the data sheet (in bold) that you need to coat the inside of the balancer with anti-seize to prevent the balancer from "welding" itself to the snout of the crank due to the heat. To quote them "the stock cast iron balancer will be far more forgiving than steel". I'm just doing what they tell me to! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger280zx Posted August 22, 2011 Share Posted August 22, 2011 Did you get the engine in the car yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2eighTZ4me Posted August 22, 2011 Author Share Posted August 22, 2011 Holy cow Roger - I forgot I even had this post out here! Welcome to getting old. Your timing is darn near perfect though. I ripped out the mule motor Thurs. night, got all the parts swapped over to the forged motor on Friday night (with the help of Jose' Cuervo) and dropped it in on Sat. (with Jose Cuervo reminding me that I shouldn't have enlisted his help the night before!) My buddy Danny (OlderThanMe) helped me get all the pieces back together. Ran into an issue with my Spal fan though. Turns out the harmonic balancer was rubbing on the bottom side of the fan motor where the wires go in to the motor, and it had about sheared them in two. Was able to make a viable repair and that's where I stopped. I've got about an hours worth of work to get the bottom side buttoned up and then get it ready to start. Probably try to fire it up Tues. or Wed. night. Then it's break in time and then off to DIY AutoTune to have Jerry work his magic. FYI - I found my ignition issue and it is corrected. The last PDX event at Road Atlanta was perfect. The 240SX tranny swap along with a good solid ignition found me beating up on some serious competitors...even with the mule motor. I also found out why the car would only boost to 10psi as well. When taking the turbo/exh. manifold off for the motor swap, BOTH vacuum hoses (the banjo fittings themselves) were loose, so the boost controller wasn't doing squat. Spring only. I'm hoping to squeeze 425 at the wheels out of this setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 23, 2011 Share Posted August 23, 2011 I would say 'anti seize' for the balancer could take many forms. It's not welding due to heat, but relative high frequency vibration. Green Cylindrical locking compound (Loctite 608 for instance) would accomplish the same thing: prevent movement and separate the two metals from making detrimental contact. Actually, what they are doing in Japan these days is eliminating the single woodruff key, and runing a SOLID key front-to-back with an accompanying broach in whatever component needs it (if they oversize to save a crank, for instance)---this gives far more contact area and stops the 'wallowing' of the woodruff key in the dampner slot from too much stress put on too little an area. VW's would have similar cold-welding occur when aluminum A/N Fittings were put into the AS41 cases...in most cases people just left them loose under the thought that the leak was something you needed to live with. A few people in the know used Loctite Green to lock those fittings in place, keep them from leaking, AND prevent the galling/cold-welding phenomenon. Those who used PTFE Tape lived with loose fittings that leaked eventually anyway (and in some cases had threads of tape in bearings, etc...) The big issue on the snout of the crank is movement and fretting. Steel-to-Steel will cold weld under those conditions, so molykote, C5A, or locking compound will stop it. I'd defer to locking compound. A little heat on the snout, it releases, and off it comes. Molykote would be my second choice as I've used it previously and you can burnish it in to prevent galling and cold welding, but it can still suffer from fretting if the nut comes loose even a little bit. C5A is more for threads it would work as a release compound, but neither Molykote or C5A would prevent movement like locking compound would. It comes at the cost of a little inconvenience at teardown. But if it saves the crank AND balancer.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger280zx Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 Funny thing about my timing is I was gonna give you a call Friday on the way home from work, but I was dog tired. One hit of that quervo and I'd have been worthless. It's good to hear its coming together though, and fantastic that the ignition is sorted. I'll try to get out there in the next couple of weeks (not this weekend though... anniversary) for one of those break in rides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dum-bass Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 i LIKE IT! From 130 hp to 400? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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