L26 or L28E?

[Danish240Z]

Hello!

 

I hope you will help me with this question.

 

I have a L26 engine, that needs to be renovated.

But now a can get a deal on a L28E for just 975$ - renovated (stock parts/not performance) with new pistons, new engine bearings and cylinder head with new cam.

 

 

Which one shoud I go for, renovate the L26, or buy the L28? And how much power does the L28 make more than the L26? And what about carbs, is it a good idea to put my L26 SU's on the L28?

 

 

Many questions, i know - hope you will help

 

- Sebastian Poulsen

Denmark

[240zip]

In Europe, you can get better gas than we can in the US, thus I'd opt for a higher compression engine. You can get over 230 RWHP from a properly built 2.4L engine, but it will cost you in the area of $5,000 USD. Going with the L28 will give you a little more HP and some more torque. People state the 2.4L engine revs more freely. I've not seen hard figures on this. It's mostly word of mouth.

 

I did a 2.8L build with an E31 head, flat top pistons, a 270 duration / .450 lift cam. CR came to about 10.3:1. We did some head work, added MSA headers, free flow exhaust, and a Weber 42DCOE-8 triple set-up. We're running a MSD 6A and Pertronix. A stock 2.8L would get you a nice engine. It really depends on what you want and what you're willing to pay. The price you stated for a rebuilt 2.8L is reasonable.

 

You car (if it's the one pictured) is stunning. You're doing it right. Personally, I'd go with a 2.8L over a 2.6L. You can set-up the 2.8L with SUs or perhaps go with something more exotic like ITBs. Personally, I wouldn't try and fit the stock FI into your car. Webers are nice. I'm biased, I love the sound, the power at higher RPM, and the look.

 

Perhaps the best way to go would be to get the 2.8L, add SUs, headers, and a nice exhaust. You could upgrade the head at a later date or perhaps swap it out for an E31 or any number of other options.

[Danish240Z]

Okay - Thank you for your very good answer!

 

I have just found out that my country (Denmark)

have a stupid law, that says that if a car does not have the original engine type, it may only have 20% more hp over stock (150hp + 20% = 180HP)

But tuning over 20% is legal on the original motor type (L24) - so i need to find a L24, to renovate..

Then i will add MSA Headers, Magnaflow exhaust system and SU's to start with (maybe Weber later).

And i have an idea of using a turbocharger or supercharger to boost it, maybe from 280ZX or a maybe a Garret setup.

[240zip]

I have no idea how such a law could be enforced. Do they expect you to hand over a dyno sheet when you rebuild a non original motor? Does this law apply to the block (displacement) only or does swapping the head constitute a non-OEM motor? The E88 and E31 heads are not ones I'd use for a turbo set-up. You can go with a turbo head, dished pistons, and then add a turbo, but it's not going to be as strong as turbo block which has difference beyond mere displacement.

[DAW]

What year L28E? Are you talking about a Euro L28, because they have different pistons/c.r. than a US L28.

Regardless, you want the L28 due to the better breathing around the valve/cylinder wall region. The L26, 83mm bore, is too choked-off.

DAW

[Danish240Z]

I have no idea how such a law could be enforced. Do they expect you to hand over a dyno sheet when you rebuild a non original motor? Does this law apply to the block (displacement) only or does swapping the head constitute a non-OEM motor? The E88 and E31 heads are not ones I'd use for a turbo set-up. You can go with a turbo head, dished pistons, and then add a turbo, but it's not going to be as strong as turbo block which has difference beyond mere displacement.

 

They test drives the car, and if they think the engine have to much power - they can require a dyno sheet. The law apply to both engine-block and vital parts inside block. (Head & Camshaft) - but I don't think they can require me to rip the engine apart to they can see the inside parts. (Another thing is that many people in Denmark have never seen or known anything about old Datsuns and L engines.)

 

Thank you for the help

 

 

What year L28E? Are you talking about a Euro L28, because they have different pistons/c.r. than a US L28.Regardless, you want the L28 due to the better breathing around the valve/cylinder wall region. The L26, 83mm bore, is too choked-off.DAW

 

I dont know what the engine year is. :/

Thank you, now i know the difference!

[240zip]

You can source a L24 block here in the US for a very reasonable price (perhaps $100 or less). I think there's someone selling one in the classified here for $50. The L24 came with two heads - the E31 and the E88. Early E88s are basically the same as the E31.

 

The most power you're going to get from a L24 would be a rebuilt engine from either Rebello or Sunbelt. Rebello makes a special L24 engine that's 'stroked' to 2.7 liters but uses the stock block and head. You'd be able to show your government folks the correct block and head.

 

http://www.rebelloracing.com/enginebuild.htm

 

They claim 270HP with triples. Not sure of your budget, but you may want to consult them. I suspect they've sold to Europe.

[Danish240Z]

You can source a L24 block here in the US for a very reasonable price (perhaps $100 or less). I think there's someone selling one in the classified here for $50. The L24 came with two heads - the E31 and the E88. Early E88s are basically the same as the E31.

 

The most power you're going to get from a L24 would be a rebuilt engine from either Rebello or Sunbelt. Rebello makes a special L24 engine that's 'stroked' to 2.7 liters but uses the stock block and head. You'd be able to show your government folks the correct block and head.

 

http://www.rebelloracing.com/enginebuild.htm

 

They claim 270HP with triples. Not sure of your budget, but you may want to consult them. I suspect they've sold to Europe.

 

Thats very cheap, I gonna look out for that - Thank you for the info

 

 

Oh, i did not know that a L24 with stock block and head could make so much power!

Thank you, you have been a great help

[Lazeum]

Make sure gas would be better. It's not true in France. Octane rating is 95 or 98 but it only considers RON & not MON (See wiki for more info if you'd like)

 

US considers RON+MON / 2. When you consider MON, you end up finding EU 98 is equivalent to 92.5 in the states rules. It is better than Cali gas but it isn't as good as 93 or 94 gas you can find overseas.

 

Regarding your engine and sources of parts, France, Germany, UK, Netherlands, Spain have Z communities that could help. Finding a L24 in Europe should be an easy task, you just need to ask

 

Regarding Rebello, Some UK & French people have delt with him, Shipping is a very reasonable amount of the total cost when you compare with engine price. I've seen a 3.2L pushing 310 crank hp with very good street manners with no problem at all.

 

Regarding the stock engine, I'd like to know how they can find out about the engine not being the stock one, you need to be deeply involved into the Datsun world to know the code to expect vs. the chassis. Since numbers does not match anyhow, "N42" or F54" written on the side of the block is [almost] the only way to tell from outside.

Edited December 25, 2010 by Lazeum

[Tony D]

And core plugs on the block...

 

It's the reason Miroux Motorsports (BE) keeps their paddock doors closed during Spa the last three years running.

 

Seems they insisted their 'F54' late core-plugged block with an N42 head was an L24 and totally prepared in accordance with FIA Group4 rules...

 

They did not like this random Yank asking questions. Coming down the front stretch past the old F1 Paddock into Eau Rouge I'm here to tell ya: It AIN'T no L24 turning those times (2:55 or less!) Not at that RPM at that point on the track!

 

But Lazeum is right...most guys you run across won't know the difference. And I don't get to Denmark sooo...