Prest's240 Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 Hey, I have a 240z that I am restoring but I have had issues with the engines and they will have to be rebuilt. I have an L28 in my garage though that I am planning on putting in the car, but it also needs to be rebuilt. I bought it from a guy and need some information about what I need to do with the block and such before I start the rebuild. I assume I need to have a machining shop clean it and check for cracks and stuff right? Sorry I'm new to this so a step by step walk through would be really helpful from you more experienced enthusiasts. Thanks I really appreciate any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 You can start by reading this... http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1555611591 There are probably other viable sources like your local book store. Even if you don't intend to do the assemble you'll still be miles ahead in basic knowledge of these engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pcakes55 Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 Do some things like compression test/leakdown/measuring clearances before bringing it to the machine shop. Get an idea of what it actually needs, and don't spend money on things that aren't necessary for a stock rebuild. Things add up quickly at a machine shop, which is fine for a performance build. But you might be bummed with a big bill and nothing to really show for it. Just my .02- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard5vgy Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 That is a great book to start with. as far as machine work goes just have a shop redo you head, deck so it's true and the valve guides and a 3 angle valve job are basic and shouldn't cost you more the 360.00 to have done. If you go with bronze guides then double that easily. Now for the block have it hot tanked magna fluxed. bored if needed or wanted, decked. choose your piston rings before to have any machine work done that way is you choose to use chrome rings you can inform the machinist of it so he can prep the cylinders properly. Simply tell the machinist you want the head block and crank to be done and machined to whatever they cleanup at so you don't have to worry about anything once this is done you can then order your pistons and rings and bearings ordered at the proper size. ebay is a better place to locate piston and ring sets for a good price. ITM pistons are good i have a set in one of my L28 and a L26 and for the price they are a great choice from the very few there are to choose from. Also another little tip i would recommend is purchasing a set of ARP rod bolts and head studs since you should replace the rod bolts and for the price of stock equipment and the little extra for arp it is worth the piece of mind. and for the head studs you are looking at 40-50 more than a stock set of head bolts and they are reusable which the stock bolts are not. once you have those in you don't have to worry about that later on if you want to do more modifications. a set of main studs couldn't hurt either. It's all about how much you want to spend for security and piece of mind. one more thing do not buy a melling oil pump get a beck arnley or another pump i put a brand new melling on my last rebuild and did everything you are suppose to and it was defective out of the box didn't pump at all and almost killed my engine. For a water pump grab a GMB from autozone even though i work at O'reilly's i have to say it because the GMB has the largest and best looking impeller i have found on a L series water pump which means more flow.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 Good Advice there Richard, You should come check out the Albuquerque Z club sometime. Might be able to get you discounts in Santafe. I'm not sure I'd want to reuse even the ARP head bolts, but that's just me. As for rebuilding the engine. There's a LOT to be said for rebuilding your own engine, and that book has a lot of infor in it. As does the Haynes manuals. Really how much you do depends a lot on you, and how skilled you think you are. I rebuilt my first L28 when I was 15. It's not too tough so long as you follow the manual and stay organized. I'd definitely send the head and block out for cleaning and machine work. Oh and On the head, you'll want to use those Ford Viton valve seals. They're much better for a Unleaded gas running engine. There's a few other upgrades like the Distrib to consider, but rebuilding isn't too hard, mostly it's keeping organized like I said. The best part of doing it yourself, in knowing the engine, and being able to say "I fixed this!". Of course that also has something to do with your wallet and how much spare time you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prest's240 Posted January 7, 2011 Author Share Posted January 7, 2011 Thanks guys I really appreciate the help. The guy I bought it from was going to rebuild it so I have all of the parts, I think. But I need to double check and make sure all of the measurements are the same. The problem is I am at school in Washington and the engine is at my home in Montana. So I am trying to figure out what I need to do to prepare the block so when I get back I just have to put it together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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