pcakes55

I have an E88 head, will take $40 + shipping. PM me

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/107434-rebuilt-l28et/ , open to offers. let me know

pm'd

Read, read, read. Nothing is impossible but this looks like a LOT of work & money, and in my opinion you wouldn't want to drive a 1200hp car anywhere on the street. But don't let me rain on your parade; Here's a decent article about traction at the strip: http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/traction_tips_street_strip_suspensions/

I have one in great shape, $75 + shipping from 03051. PM me if interested, I can send you a picture.

Would an 82-83 help?

This is a turbo engine; Starting to consider ditching my turbo set-up for an mild NA build just to get it FINALLY running this year. Just wanted to see what comp ratio's i'd be looking at w/ flat tops vs dished. Also iirc, the head was shaved previously and .006 was the maximum they could go. Oy my memory is hazy (been 2 years since the machine shop), I'll have to measure the head height tonight I suppose.

Anyone know what compression ratio this will yield: - l28 bored over .040 - dished pistons - P90 head shaved .006 - OEM head gasket In addition, anyone know what compression ratio flat-top pistons would yield? I know these would be just rough figures; I tried using a calculator but I was unsure of the new combustion chamber CC after being shaved down.

Looking for a fully functional MS setup for an L28et. PM me details and your price. Thanks, Pat

I have one in good condition. $100 + shipping from 03051 if you're interested- Pat

I have one in excellent condition. PM me if you still need one-

The crank is fine, mine was exactly the same with the holes.

http://gallery.voodoo-people.com/album599/Picture_086 Anyone know brand/specs of these wheels? Cant find any info on hokes old wheel setup, but I'm loving the look of them w/o flares-

I have an opportunity to buy 'turn 6 springs' for 240/260/280z (sorry for such a vague description, thats all i got!), front and rears for $50. I've been trying to find some information about them and cant seem to find anything online about them. Anyone heard of them or have any experience with them?

You'll also need either a turbo oil pan and TURBO oil pickup tube (the N/A pickup tube wont fit the turbo pan). OR, what I did, was welded an oil return into the N/A pan; probably the easier route.

I have a '73, its currently stripped down for paint. Was in storage for approx. 20 years by previous owner so its in pretty mint condition..I also have a built L28et that I was going to swap in. Lot of extras including flares, huge intercooler etc. I have probably $6-7k into the project total but we could work something out. I'm in NH (03051) and I'd want to sell the everything as a package, let me know if you're interested and I could provide more details. thanks- Pat McCarthy patmccarthy55@gmail.com

You're not missing anything; And yes put a SMALL amount of RTV anywhere three edges/corners come together.

Looking to trade my rebuilt l28et set-up for either a stock or mildly built, running l28 (I'd consider running L24/26's depending.), plus suspension/transmission/other upgrades. Trying to get my car on the road for the summer rather than waiting another year to be running it with my turbo set-up. Message me for details on motor if interested; I think I have around $3k into my set-up as it sits right now. Will also consider the mentioned trades + cash. thanks- Pat Patmccarthy55@gmail.com

Do some things like compression test/leakdown/measuring clearances before bringing it to the machine shop. Get an idea of what it actually needs, and don't spend money on things that aren't necessary for a stock rebuild. Things add up quickly at a machine shop, which is fine for a performance build. But you might be bummed with a big bill and nothing to really show for it. Just my .02-

If you're not a giant, you should definately consider a 600 or 750. I drive a zx6r and my buddies on bigger liter bikes cant even keep up on backroads (and they're more experienced than I). Not to mention you'll probably like the more nimble, smaller bikes being in the city. I'm biased to Kawasaki, but cant go wrong with an R6 or cbr. Anyways, make sure all the gears shift smoothly..check for any jimmy-rigged wiring; Especially if there's any aftermarket electrics or lights. If you're getting a newer bike (such as an 07+ like you stated) chances are not much if anything will be wrong with it. Now is definately the time to buy a bike though..wait until spring and expect to pay much more for the same bike you could buy now for say $1000 less. Also, make sure you spend the money on quality gear. A nice helmet (Shoei, Arai) will make riding much more pleasurable; Not to mention a shitty helmet will discourage you from actually wearing it. But I wont turn this into a gear thread, just dont take your skin for granted. Alright I'm done rambling, welcome to the 2 wheel world-

I'd consider selling mine for the right price. Everything is freshly built; 1.00 over, balanced, etc. All machine work done at R&L in Dover and I have receipts for every single part and labor. I have just about everything for the swap minus the ECU unless you use the stock N/A that I'll include and use a RRFPR with it. PM me if interested I can give more details; I'd like to sell EVERYTHING I have for the turbo motor as one package though, might not fit your budget. -Pat

You could probably save money and time if you just leave the camshaft and valves on the bench when you reassemble instead of using a cam like that. lol.. But really, stock cam is more than adequate for 300hp. If it all checks out good at the machine shop, stick with that. If you need to replace it, your wallet will probably be better off with buying another used stock cam for cheap than a performance cam; And then you'll have more money for other things. If your power goals were higher, it'd be a different story. If you really want to splurge though, there's plenty of cam choices. But the one you listed is not ideal Research.

Hmm just realized how dumb this question is. For anyone with the same question, lowering the adjustment screw increases clearance, and visa versa. I pictured it like a lever system: the rocker as the lever, the cam lobe kind of like the load, and the adjustment screw where the work would be happening. As you lift up the lever(rocker), there would be more pressure on load (cam lobe), therefor less clearance. No brainer, hope that makes sense.

Tonight I figured I'd adjust my valves to spec on my fresh P90 head, and it left me more confused than anything. Does anyone know which way to turn the adjustment (screw, i guess?) where the rocker arm pivots on? It was almost all the way bottomed out, so I began loosening it; It is now showing about 1/3" of its threads above the lock nut, and the clearance is still too small to get the correct feeler guage between the cam lobe and rocker. Am I going the right way with it to increase clearance? I assumed it has to go up, as when I began it was nearly bottomed out. However I definately dont want to keep raising the adjustment screw and have it pop out; I'm not sure how long the threads are.