AtlantaZ Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Help! My efforts to break the crank bolt loose on my '76 280z (without removing the radiator, and without impact tools) are failing. Here's what I tried: 1. Using a breaker bar and socket I can turn the bolt/pulley all day, but with my 4-speed tranny in 1st gear and the parking brake set, the whole engine turns and the car inches backward! Even with a block behind the tire, the car just climbs up over the block... 2. I borrowed a loaner damper puller set from Advance Auto, but it's no help. There are only two threaded "puller" bolt holes on the 280z damper, and trying to use the puller yoke obstructs the crank bolt. Besides, I can't find the right set of bolts to fit into these holes anyway (see #3 below). 3. I tried to find two bolts that would thread into the above puller holes, so I could leverage a large screwdriver or a tire iron against them and hold the crank pulley in place. I tried M6 x 1.00 pitch, M8 x 1.00, and M8 x 1.25 bolts, but nothing fits right. The M6 x 1.00 bolts seem to fit, but they don't thread in far enough to be sturdy. Any ideas are sincerely appreciated, as this is the only obstacle that keeps me from installing my VR sensor and obtaining a timing signal for Megasquirt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyler031734 Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 (edited) Well for starters you can put your car in HIGH gear so torque is multiplied less through the drive train therefore moving the car less. or find out why your Ebrake sucks lol Brain fart, crank turns clockwise from the front of the car right? put your breaker bar back on it, put the other end on the ground, than go push the clutch in and turn the key! something will let go, this has been used many times successfully. Edited February 8, 2011 by tyler031734 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geezer Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Pull a spark plug, feed in a length of 3/8" cotton rope leaving enough rope to remove it later. This will prevent the piston from reaching TDC and lock the rotating assembly allowing you to apply enough torque with your breaker bar to remove the crank bolt. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Why aren't you using an impact? Jam something in the wheel so it physically can't rotate / whack the breaker bar with a mallet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted February 8, 2011 Author Share Posted February 8, 2011 GOT IT! Man, I forgot how much knuckles can bleed... ow... will upload a photo to my build thread tomorrow! Good catch on the high gear! Although my first few pulls just made the car scoot backwards much faster! That, plus another brick behind the tire, plus a few well-aimed smacks on the breaker bar with my 3-pound sledge and the (expletive) bolt is free!! Follow up question: What's your favorite antiseptic for bloody knuckles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tennesseejed Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Follow up question: What's your favorite antiseptic for bloody knuckles? Bourbon. And a bandaid for the hand. Good luck with your project. Share pics when you can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted February 8, 2011 Author Share Posted February 8, 2011 (edited) I do like the rope trick suggested above. I might try that next time. And seriously, what is up with my parking brake?? I'll post a photo on my build thread tomorrow: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95992-another-s30-turbo-project/page__p__902552__fromsearch__1#entry902552 *Update* War wound photo uploaded! Edited February 8, 2011 by AtlantaZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyler031734 Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Bourbon. And a bandaid for the hand. I second that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 (edited) I found it pretty easy to remove the radiator in under 15 minutes.... Took longer for me to tap the pully out. Just an FYI, if you're using Derek's trigger wheel setup I think you do need to pull the radiator. Not only for simplicity but the wheel offset and stuff too I think.... I'm trying to remember when I put mine on, what kinks I ran into. I remember I was telling myself "next time I will do this with the engine on a stand." Maybe I pulled the radiator so I could look at the wheel head on. I forget... Anyway good luck! EDIT: Now that I think about it, I pulled the radiator so I could tap the pully back on when I was ready. Can't fit/swing a mallet with a radiator in there. Once again, I think it was just for simplicity so you don't bust your ass/knuckles on the rest of the install. You may not HAVE to pull it I suppose... Edited February 8, 2011 by josh817 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 Got it back on without having to pull the radiator! Which was nice, since I didn't want to deal with coolant spilling everywhere. The bad news - the VR sensor mount didn't quite line up with the timing cover holes. After trying unsuccessfully for 20 minutes to get it on, I took a drill and grinder to it, and finally managed to get it bolted on. THAT part would have been nice to do with the radiator off. But it's done! The best part is that I get to do this all over again on my new engine. Thankfully, that engine IS on a stand, so this will all be much, much easier the next time around!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 That's strange that it didn't fit... Maybe you weren't fitting it on right? I had that problem too... I was doing it backwards or at the wrong angle which made it dangerously close to the pully or something if I remember.Eventually I figured it out. Usually when I get pissed I take exponentially longer to solve the simplest things.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 I mounted it in the same orientation as Derek's setup - with the large bolt at the bottom, and the smaller slotted hole towards the top. At least it's on now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 I mounted it in the same orientation as Derek's setup - with the large bolt at the bottom, and the smaller slotted hole towards the top. At least it's on now! Sorry you had trouble with the fit. Did you have to grind the back corner of the bracket like I suggested? It may have just been the angle of the dangle when you were installing because I did a test fit on a motor I have here and it bolted up with no problems after I ground the corner. I wonder if there are different timing covers out there? Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 Could've been... since I was trying to thread in the allen bolt from above the engine, with the radiator still in place, the angle was definitely much less than optimal. When I tried mounting it to my L28ET on the stand, it seemed to fit just fine. Yes, grinding the corner helped. Hate to ruin the finish, but I guess no one will see it. I may respray it with satin black just to be sure. Speaking of... do you have good source for good-condition 2-row crank dampers/ pulleys? My stock one is okay, but I wouldn't mind having a healthier replacement. But I'd rather not pay $200 for NOS on eBay... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 I've bought 2 "good" Dampers from hybrid members. One never showed up and the other one was broken so bad that there was no way it could be used. Make sure your definition of "good" is the same as theirs! So no I don't have a source. Realistically if you buy a used one and pay to have it rebuilt your almost at the price of a new OEM unit. Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.