Derek

Thanks. You can't beat the Honda valve train parts and engineering.

Being as I have a Speedhut GPS Speedo I haven't even thought about it:)

So I'm going to be "that guy" that points out that's a caliper and not micrometer. Also you really need a good micrometer and standards to ensure you have good numbers. I highly recommend you take the crank to a machine shop and have it checked. I like digital micrometers but I always have the appropriate standard handy to make sure noting has electronically drifted.

Well as I always say, "no kill like overkill". I always look at this stuff from a risk standpoint. If you are qualified to setup a new LSD and ring and pinion then there is minimal risk. If you have to send it out well then there's one level of risk. That was part of my decision to go with a newer used Subaru R180. It also comes down to driving style. beat the crap out of it on every shift (I approve) then you would want to overbuild.

That's the nature of the beast on FB and reddit. A properly moderated forum like this one is the best for technical help but like all things in this world people want it now. What amazes me is in the time they typed out the question they could have googled it and got all the info they could want.

I have the bell housings and shifter adapters done, What's left to do is to finalize the template to mark the transmission for cutting and to make some cross members. Both Chris at Godzilla and I are slammed right now and these las two items seem to keep dragging on and on. I have the install instructions almost done. The CD009 was a lot easier because the additional items like shifters and cross members already existed.

This would be considered in my mind a very advanced swap in that to my knowledge no one has done it before you. If you have plenty of time then learning the fabrication skills and acquiring the necessary equipment and long term workspace would be first on the list. I've never done a swap but there is a very long list of items that need to work together for it to be a success.

This looks really cool. One of the things I have always hated was getting out of the car to adjust the shocks for different conditions. A two hour drive I want them soft. Then back on the streets I want them firm. That price is getting pretty close to what I would justify as worth it.

If you come up dry Godzilla Raceworks in Texas can help you.

That's because you are biased

I have a R180 out of a 2019 Impreza and I'm running the DatsunRestomod axles.

Looks like a nice setup. It's pretty small too. Considering all you need to add is a lift pump the price is pretty decent. Probably not enough volume for a road race car.

Glad it's working out. Biggest problem for me is retraining my muscle memory as to what gear I should be in. The CD009 gear spread really works well in my opinion.

It's pretty much hidden. There have been a few install posts on ClassicZcar including the one I did. I suggest you give this a look.

I manufacture a CD009 conversion bell housing for the L6. I sell them through Godzilla Raceworks. https://www.godzillaraceworks.com/drivetrain/cd00a-swap-bellhousing-kit-for-l-series-engines It uses your existing clutch pressure plate and flywheel which is nice.

I run the Vintage Air Gen 2 Mini. I had all the other stuff already so I didn't need a kit just the evap/heater unit. It fits under the dash really well.

This is it exactly. The more lopey the idle the more I notice it. My aluminum flywheel isn't helping either. A steel one would have a more damping effect. It's subjective and a camera phone is not going to pick up a true recording. The next time I pull the transmission I'm going to put some DEI Floor and Tunnel Shield in. I think that would help a bunch. I hated the noise when I did the install but as AydinZ71 said it's a known thing and after a while it's not a big deal. I love having the 6 speed though so it's a worthwhile conversion to me. Back in the day they called the Muncie M22 "Rock Crusher". The CD009 sounds like it actually is crushing rocks:). And yes the TL70 is still moving along. I'm relying on Godzilla to do the test fit and their moving to a new facility during a pandemic has not helped things. They are close to verifying the tilt angle is correct and the shifter is in the right location. I'm leaving crossmember development up to them since my car no longer has the mounting ears.

I’m sure OSHA would have no complaints with anything in this picture:) Now that I have a surfacer I’ve decided to play around with CC’ing chambers after I make my final pass. When I originally modeled the chamber in 3D I left a 1mm straight wall plus machine allowance for the builder. The reason for that was to create a known steady surface area if you wanted to really dial in the chamber volume. A .010” surface cut will remove approximately 1.3 CC’s. The problem is Even though there are seats in the head you can’t put valves in since the guides are not sized and even if you could they would sit proud of the seat since they are not angle cut. So I machined out some plastic plugs to sit as close as I could to flush with the seat face. Not perfect but it's as close as I'm going to get. I almost look like I know what I'm doing Actually this isn't part of my normal operations so I'm still in the "get fluid everywhere but where you want it" mode. Right now the math is following pretty closely to the actual measured chamber size. Not sure what my ultimate goal is since I have no plans on hitting a target CC when it leaves the shop. Ideally in my thinking you would do the valves and make your final surface cut and CC the chambers. Then you would order pistons designed to meet your CR goals. The problem is that can add months to a build. I’m basically grabbing data to see how much variance there is from head to head. I think that ordering pistons based on a certain CC chamber and then have the builder surface and CC to dial it in will be the safest approach.

You beat me to it It was a lot better than I was expecting and mostly accurate. I'm glad they kept the HybridZ origins in there and a link to the page also.

Is that built out of GPO3?

Ok well we know it will go to 3.4. Still a lot of questions though. Also the lack of actual pictures of the MRZ 3.4 DOHC makes me wonder. I will say that knowing MRZ's price points even if they offered a head like mine it would be pricey.

Nope. I saw that awhile ago and assumed that they were either developing their own head or had made a deal with OSG to buy complete motors. It also say's Nissan 3400 straight 6. Neither the OSG nor mine is a Nissan product so I'm not sure what is going on. I suppose they could be doing some sort of RB thing. Can you get an RB out to 3.4? I don't think the head will flow enough to feed it though in a NA application.

I am but as soon as I put bungs there I guarantee you someone will want them somewhere else. Also the majority of the builds are running Jenvey stuff and for the most part they come with bungs. And last but not least the casting works for both tilts depending on how I machine it. The bungs would over complicate that.

I think Derek's injectors are at the head I purposely have left that stuff up to others since A: I know very little about making power and B I know even less than that I do know how to make a casting though so that's more important in my mind. I did a search on production vehicles that make over 100 HP per liter NA and it's a pretty impressive list. Rob sent me a link to an article that came out. https://www.thedrive.com/news/41805/nissan-240z-roars-with-honda-style-dohc-head Links to and mentions this build thread which was nice.

Thanks Ben I'm glad some numbers on a 3.2L (3.18) are finally out. 100hp per liter is pretty decent from what I hear. Rob feels like there is still some more to be had via tuning but it's a street car so there is always a balance to strike. I'm just glad that for Zcar Garage it's now an itch they need to scratch.