Guest chevsun Posted June 30, 2001 Share Posted June 30, 2001 I have been trying to cure a detonation problem, changing advance springs, and vacuume advance settings. So while I have been taking some full throttle runs I decided to just bake the hides one time (today). First gear, the car starts comeing sideways after about 30 feet so I speedshift to 2nd with the throttle still in the carpet and after about 5 feet of rubber BANG CLANK CLANK CLANK. Needless to say I got out of the throttle quick and got to the side of the road to have a quick peek. I looked underneath and lo and behold the forcasts of weaker stock u-joints in the half shaft seems to be true. Fortunatly the only thing I broke besides the u-joint was the brake line. The car was just down the road from my house so I had the wife pull me home with the 4-wheeler and I will be ordering 4 new spicer joints. Does anyone know of the bestplace to order these? part# and prices? What do you guys running 400hp+ use? As always any advice appreciated just don't tell me that I play too rough. Thanks Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted June 30, 2001 Share Posted June 30, 2001 Be CAREFUL with Spicer! I thought I was oh so smart when I odered mine - until they showed up with hollow bodies! These were the HD units MSA sells and were NOT cheap Try to find out who makes solid bodied units, maybe even Spicer?, but try to avoid the hollow ones. I'm hoping mine won't turn out to be fragile but the solid ones are supposed to be more sturdy regardless... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 3, 2001 Share Posted July 3, 2001 I am using Brute Force solids, but have busted one of those too. Actually, I think Myron did the dirty work, and they just busted on me. I don't know about the spicer, but the BF ran me about $15 if I remember correctly. They seem to be okay now. I need to go under and check. I haven't had any vibrations though. Ct.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 3, 2001 Share Posted July 3, 2001 If I'm not mistaken, you want ones with no zirk in them (thats why some of them are hollow..), also check the angles on them if it gets real extreme its going to take them out no matter what you put in there if you shock them.. (CV time?) Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted July 3, 2001 Share Posted July 3, 2001 If there is enough interest, I will consider another run of the CV adaptors. It has to be a minimum of 10 pairs and the price (TBD) will be higher than the first batch of $110/pr. Let me know if there is interest out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted July 3, 2001 Share Posted July 3, 2001 Scottie, after what you went through the first time on this, my hat is off to you on offering it again. I know this is a bunch of work to package and ship all those sets, etc. I think it was bubafet that was a little disappointed that he missed the first run. I have 1 set I don't have plans for already, but if you need to go from 9 to 10 at the end of this offer, I'll put another set on my shelf - someone will want/need them down the road. Thanks for offering this again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest fordguy57 Posted July 3, 2001 Share Posted July 3, 2001 Does this CV joint conversion pertain just to Z's; or does it also pertain to the ZX's ? Both my Datsun's are 280ZX's and so were 2 parts cars I had (two 79's, one '80 2+2, and one '83), so I'm not familiar with earlier 240/260/280 suspension and how it differs from ZX's.. Is the CV joint conversion a less complex job on the ZX and so does not require the adapters that Scottie and his machinist had provided?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted July 3, 2001 Share Posted July 3, 2001 FordGuy57, the CV adaptor is made to allow the use of the 280ZXT CV axles to be used in a Z. Because the ZX has a wider track, the CV axles are a tad long for the Z and binds when they are extended into the diff. The adaptor itself is a disc that is CNC-machined with a pocket on the wheel hub side that the Z companion flange fits in and is welded. That welded unit is bolted up to the Z stub axle just like you would bolt up the companion flange. On the diff side of the adaptor, there is a pocket that the CV end fits in, pre-drilled to the CV bolt pattern. The thickness of the adaptor eliminates the binding. You should be able to swap the ZXT companion flange on your stub axle and install the CV axles with no adaptor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dp351zcar Posted July 4, 2001 Share Posted July 4, 2001 So where do you find the 280zxt cv half shafts? I have only seen one around here and someone got the cv's a day before I got there. Also would you need the adapter if you got the stub axle flange off the 280zxt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 10, 2001 Share Posted September 10, 2001 Anyone got part #s and sources for the better U's mentioned above? Seems my thoughts on the HD Spicers I bought turned out to be true. Paid way more than $15 each for them too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted September 10, 2001 Share Posted September 10, 2001 Jim, cannot find it in my stack of notes. Do a search on "NEAPCO". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Gad Posted September 10, 2001 Share Posted September 10, 2001 Scottie, i'm in for a set of the adaptors. I've been pondering long and hard whether it was necessary and the more horror stories I read here, the more I feel the need for them. I think I'd rather deal with the halfshafts one time and have piece of mind. Thanks again for offering to make another run of adaptors. I missed out on the first as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted September 10, 2001 Share Posted September 10, 2001 Z-GAD, you can read up on the adaptor and purchase details on my web here: Modern Motorsports Ltd. As Scottie said, it's a 70-78 Z adaptor only. 280ZX's can use a ZXT rear flange set in their non turbo control arms, which is what I did. If possible I'd just swap in the 280ZXT control arms as then you get the slightly larger brake pads etc of the later ZX brakes. (I don't recall if all control arms are the same in 280zx's or not...). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
labrat Posted September 11, 2001 Share Posted September 11, 2001 I know what you mean with the ujoints, i busted a brand new "heavy duty" ujoint today on my way to the parts store. And this was just with the 6 cyl. I definitely need the zxt cv axles for the smallblock... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 11, 2001 Share Posted September 11, 2001 The only u-joint I ever broke was Spicer. It lasted 30 seconds. One burnout, one hookup on the Hoosiers, and good by u-joint. The axel made one more revolution, (it broke on the diff end) and locked itself to the lower control arm inner pivot shaft. The car came to screeching halt. Not fun. I had installed this u-joint the night before. Searched my used axel supply and put stock OEM 1971 axels with OEM U-joints and have never had another problem. The car runs in the high tens and low 11's. I did build half shaft axel "driveline loops" after this experience. I understand that NHRA may have changed the rules to allow 2000 plus pound IRS cars to run faster than 10.99 if so equipped. Anyone heard of such a change in rules? If you must run a drilled u-joint with a zerk in it, always install them so that the zerk is located in the crush quadrant of the U-joint not the stretch area. I have been sadly disappointed by the total bearing tolerances of supposedly good quality u-joints. Some of them have had more play in them than the worn OEM joints I rejected and replaced. I built a test stand to clamp the flanges onto, and then wiggle the axel to check total bearing play. OEM u-joints have smaller diameter roll pin bearings and more of them than most of the aftermarket u-joints I have compared. The cheaper U-joints seem to have less needle roller bearings, and definitely more play right out of the box. The lesson is don't assume that new is better than your used unit. Test them first before condemning your OEM joints. Leave the good ones alone, and replace only the worn ones. John Lindsay's 10 second GNX turbo 240 has broken every u-joint they build. John finally took my word for it and bought new OE Nissan joints and hasn't had any further problems. This GNX dyno'd out at over 600 HP. Kim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 11, 2001 Share Posted September 11, 2001 Found Neapco "Brute Force" units - is that what everyone is recomending? I've got a set of adapters but don't want to pull the car down till Winter since it'll require welding and I'll probably switch stub shafts at the same time. I think this time a machine shop will be drilling the flanges for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted September 11, 2001 Share Posted September 11, 2001 Scottie or Ross, Could these CV adapters be easily converted to accept the R230 CVs? If not do you know of an existing option, or am I on my own to have a fab shop mill something out for me? The R230 is already mounted, all I need is to have the sideshafts shortened and 'hooked up' to the stubs. Thanks, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 11, 2001 Share Posted September 11, 2001 Mine broke on the diff side as well. I tried to put the zerk in crush but it seems to me that no matter where it's put it'll be getting stretched in some manner (sigh). Will be checking Pep Boys tonight for solid Us. Pics of those and my broken one when I get a chance. Hrm, my Spicer had maybe 15miles on it tops. Almost as much time on a rollback as it had the road (ahem). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 11, 2001 Share Posted September 11, 2001 sweet, I MAY have ZXT CVs as early as Sunday. May also have a source for th estubs and companion flanges. Not sure when it'll get installed mind you and I'll want to do bearings while I'm at it but this is a BIG start towards getting CVs done. Ross, I'm also sending someone your way who's interested in those adapters - any ETA yet? Lastly, if we pull these CVs Sunday I might be able to take measurements of the entire ZXT setup - would that be helpful? Pics? This friend may also have some brakes and stuff for sale - is there much interest? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted September 11, 2001 Share Posted September 11, 2001 "CV adapters - any ETA yet?" As per web update, just awaiting arrival of the prototype pair and then it's a quick dimension check and off to the CNC shop to be cranked out I have the committments I need to go ahead now just in the past few days so only awaiting their arrival/design check/then the CNC queue. Thanks for the referall Jim, depending on what brake stuff he has I might be interested in some trades etc... "Lastly, if we pull these CVs Sunday I might be able to take measurements of the entire ZXT setup - would that be helpful? Pics?" overall compressed length is of interest if we can gather data of the various shafts....I know the Z and 280zx shafts have been measured/documented somewhere(Pete?)......but overall R230 info I haven't seen? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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