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diff mount option ron tyler or techno versions


nissun1

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Same thing, just updated to allow brake and fuel line clearance.

 

The technoversion has ADDITIONAL clearance for the fuel and brake lines. Fabbed the Ron Tyler mount per the original drawing and tryed to put it into my Datsun 240Z. The strap holes are closer together on the 240Z. Made two additional holes and installed. There was not clearance for the GM mount on the top of the retrofitted R200 differential. Made a steel snubber block with rubber cushion on top to collide with Ron Tyler mount. As typical there are no dimensions on the technoversion to know that it is taller than the Ron Tyler designed mount to accommodate the GM mount. Need to contact Technoversion to find out if their mount is taller than the Ron Tyler one.

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tech-toy bought theirs from z'sondabrain over at classiczcars, and dave built them using rt dimensions with the bends for additional clearance for the brake and fuel lines.

 

Using the gm mount, it lowers the nose of the differential for those who have v8 conversions. For those of us who still have the l6, we still use the stock diff mount along with a bump stop/snubber and cut it down.

Edited by Darrel
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tech-toy bought theirs from z'sondabrain over at classiczcars, and dave built them using rt dimensions with the bends for additional clearance for the brake and fuel lines.

 

Using the gm mount, it lowers the nose of the differential for those who have v8 conversions. For those of us who still have the l6, we still use the stock diff mount along with a bump stop/snubber and cut it down.

 

The RT bracket works just fine with the L6 and only the GM mount (no OEM mount). You need to notch the the mount slightly to fit the rounded nose of the diff.

 

Nigel

'73 240ZT

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The RT bracket works just fine with the L6 and only the GM mount (no OEM mount). You need to notch the the mount slightly to fit the rounded nose of the diff.

 

Nigel

'73 240ZT

 

Nigel:

 

That is a very good tip to notch the GM mount to fit the rounded nose of the diff. The RT bracket as fabricated from the drawing needs to have the horizontal cross brace of the bracket on the forward side in other words just reverse the mounting as that shown on the drawing. Otherwise it just gets in the way of things. I have the Energy Suspension GM urethane mount and will grind/notch for the round nose of the diff. If lucky may fit as I have a R200 Long nose diff in a 1971 Datsun 240Z with the original forward "A" Arm mount/pivot from the original R180 diff mount.

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rsicard:

 

I JUST installed the Techno Versions mount last week, I have an SBC swap with R200 on a series one (no tool box, rear hatch vents 1/1971). I had to do some modifications to the mount itself to fit the GM poly bushing on the diff, just re-drilled the mounting hole further back and then relieved some material from the back stiffening rib to allow room for the bushing. I ended up not having to notch the bushing.

 

I ended up using it in conjunction with the stock rubber mount and xmember. My diff doesn't move at all, anymore. I love it, makes the car feel so much more solid on the road. Well worth the $100 I spent and the couple hours disassembling, measuring and cutting/drilling.

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rsicard:

 

I JUST installed the Techno Versions mount last week, I have an SBC swap with R200 on a series one (no tool box, rear hatch vents 1/1971). I had to do some modifications to the mount itself to fit the GM poly bushing on the diff, just re-drilled the mounting hole further back and then relieved some material from the back stiffening rib to allow room for the bushing. I ended up not having to notch the bushing.

 

I ended up using it in conjunction with the stock rubber mount and xmember. My diff doesn't move at all, anymore. I love it, makes the car feel so much more solid on the road. Well worth the $100 I spent and the couple hours disassembling, measuring and cutting/drilling.

 

Really appreciate your comments as they are valuable. What modifications were made to the RT mount in order to accommodate the GM poly trans mount? Don't understand the portion of the comment about using the stock rubber mount or is that the outer mounts for the front(s) of the suspension "A" arm(s)?

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There is a stock "cup" (which consists of two plates of steel that conform to the shapes of the cross-member and the bottom of the diff, the plates are joined by rubber between them) which attached to the underside of the nose of the diff and then to the cross-member (the piece that holds the front of the A-arm bushings). This was used in conjunction with a "strap" that went over the top of the nose, originally (the strap is the piece that the RT mount replaces).

 

As far as modifications to the mount: On the mount there is another plate of metal that joins at 90* angles to the sides and top of the mount (I believe it's there for stiffening). I had to basically "notch" that plate (in the shape of the top 1/4" or so of the GM poly mount) so that I could move the poly mount's location 3/8" to the rear to line it up with the bolts on the nose of the differential. I think this is due to the fact that I am using the '73 and newer mustache bar to eliminate the forward angles in the axles, if you are using the original 70-71 mustache bar I don't think it'll be an issue for you.

 

I also had to trim some material from the forward side of the mount to get it to fit in the series one drive-tunnel, as there are flanged pieces of sheet steel there (that I assume are not there on the later cars) that would keep one from installing the mount without a little trimming. It's basically trimming one of the three bolt holes off and then continuing that cut about 2.5~3" up. I basically pulled off the plates the original "strap" went to and used them as templates. It's okay, because you'll only have two bolts on either side of the mount, so it's not like trimming a hole out of the mount makes a difference. I think they're there to make the design more universal so the end user can trim as needed.

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