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Everything posted by toolman

  1. Orginially I was thought I could get away with repairing the frame rails. But after cutting open the frame rails, corrosion made them unrepairable. So rail replacement was necessary. After checking out the replacement floor pans and frame rails available, I decided to construct my own. Normally one can get away without bracing the body to do the replacement. But I found some corrosion on the front of driver side rocket panel. Could not determine how strong the rockers were without cutting them open. I constructed body bracing inside the car just above the floor pan. The bracing was mounted to the two lower door hinges mounts. The outer seat belt mounts were used for the other side of the body brace. 1" square steel tubing was used in a crossing pattern to provide support for the floor pan. I want to make it bolted in instead of just welding it .Construction took about two days with all the fitting that necessary. floor panel corossion pics of removed rusted areas lower door hinge mount top view of the body bracing above the floor pan close up view of door hinge mount picture of repaired crack in rear transmission tunnel frame rail rust
  2. Tools used for undercoat and paint removal The Veteran Day holiday provide me additonal time to work on my car. I tack welded all of the seams in and out of the engine compartment,Strut tower also welded, A 4 1/2 electricgrinder with twisted wire cup brush was used befotre blasting. The interior of the car masked off so the compartment could be media blasted whjile keeping most media inside the car. All open holes in firewall were masked off using duct tape. The windshield area was covered with large pieces of cardboard. Canvas and plastic sheeting covered doors and hatch areas. Face respirator and face shield were used when media blasting. In this case, 80 grit abrasive was utilized. I used a large wet/dry SHOP VAV to recover the media and reuse the media. A wire mesh filtered the recovered media before reusing.. self etching primer applied to prevent corrosion, The 16 gauge plates above the frame railings reinforce the floor panels.
  3. While in Tokyo, I found this plastic 240Z model car at a toy store. Fairlady Z is what the Japanese called the 240Z. They came with a twin overhead cam engine. Also some had GT front end nose too. This model car was about $20.
  4. One of the reasons that I went to the SEMA Show 2017 was to check on the latest LS motors. This motor is the LS376/480 the updated version of the LS3. It basically has a cam change. the motor produces 495HP and 473 ft lbs of torque. Perfect for me. .This Chevrolet High Performance manual has all necessary part numbers to build and install their motors in almost any car or truck. It gives even measurements for engine and its accessories(air conditioning,power steering,etc).i choose files...Click to choose files.url
  5. Back to the Build. wire brushed the cowl area but vent must be removed to clean area around vent box. So vent cover was carefully removed.After cleaning , area was primed with self-etching primer to prevent rust before media blasting.Driver side cowl after priming. Vent cover after sand blasting and painting with weld thu primer
  6. IMG_1912.MOV Just returned from the SEMA SHOW in Las Vegas. The ROAD KILL 71 240Z with Mustang 5.0 with Ford truck turbo blowing thu Holley carb. Low budget build but with a lot of fabrication work. IMG_1903.MOV A clean Z car with fender flares E we Bored out motor with Weber carbs Wide flared 240Z car. Someone told me that there was a early Z with a Skyline twin cam motor but I must have missed it. There were hundreds of cars and trucks to see at the show.
  7. First pic is top view of restored battery holder. Second is the bottom view of the holder. The third pic is the battery holder "test fitted". I still have not decided whether to install the holder or a marine type of battery box in the rear of car. The last pic is the firewall after I plugged unnecessary holes.
  8. IMG_1837.JPG Underside view of patch

    From the album HD FRAME


  10. IMG_1836.JPG Patched area viewed from top

    From the album HD FRAME

  11. IMG_1833.JPG top view of patch

    From the album HD FRAME

  12. IMG_1825.JPG replacement patch for area

    From the album HD FRAME

  13. IMG_1823.JPG Marked area for removal

    From the album HD FRAME

  14. IMG_1816.JPG Inside View from back

    From the album HD FRAME

  15. IMG_1784.JPG Left side support mocked up

    From the album HD FRAME

  16. IMG_1778.JPG Template for Left Side

    From the album HD FRAME

  17. First picture is the top view of the patch welded in. Second pic shows the bottom view of the patch. I have not decided whether to reinstall the battery holder or relocate it to the rear of the car.
  18. Patch had to be held in place with Cleco clips for welding. Sheet metal screws were also used.
  19. First picture is the completed radiator core support. It is welded to both sides of the front fenders and to the square tubing frame. Picture 2 show the rear of the support. I drill holes in the inside of the front tubing to lighten it and for looks. The third picture shows the front area where the bumpers and hood hinge are located. Spacing of core support and hood hinges are critical to prevent interference of moving parts. Check clearance before welding support in. Next step was to strip the engine compartment and weld up any small unnecessary holes. But I discovered the area under the battery holder was corroded. So the holder was cut out. Photo 4 shows the corrosion. Pic #5 is corroded area is to be cut out. The last pic is the top view of the patch to be installed .