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Everything posted by toolman

  1. Doing some of the small welding stuff before wet media blasting. Stabilizer mounting holes Two 8mmx 1.25 nuts welded to 1/8 x 6" steel plate This mounting was taped to 3/16 tubing to install in frame tubing. The two bolts are loosely installed. the tape is scrapped off to remove braket off tubing, Both bolts are tightened down. Then each bolt is removed and checked individually for hole alignment. With alignment done, the mounting plate is plug welded to frame rail. I hope this additional details were helpful to someone.
  2. Orginially I was thought I could get away with repairing the frame rails. But after cutting open the frame rails, corrosion made them unrepairable. So rail replacement was necessary. After checking out the replacement floor pans and frame rails available, I decided to construct my own. Normally one can get away without bracing the body to do the replacement. But I found some corrosion on the front of driver side rocket panel. Could not determine how strong the rockers were without cutting them open. I constructed body bracing inside the car just above the floor pan. The bracing was mounted to the two lower door hinges mounts. The outer seat belt mounts were used for the other side of the body brace. 1" square steel tubing was used in a crossing pattern to provide support for the floor pan. I want to make it bolted in instead of just welding it .Construction took about two days with all the fitting that necessary. floor panel corossion pics of removed rusted areas lower door hinge mount top view of the body bracing above the floor pan close up view of door hinge mount picture of repaired crack in rear transmission tunnel frame rail rust
  3. Finally got some time to work on the Z again. This is after a trip to Japan, Holiday stuff, get the scooter running and fixing the house drain pipe, Used couple of days to remove the rest of the undercoating and paint on the bottom side of the left rear wheel well and quarter panel area.Looking up from the ground to left/rear quarter panel These areas were covered with thicker than factory underseal so made it more difficult to remove. In case, you are wondering about the brazing in the upper portion of the r/wheel well- this is old( 40 years) sheetmetal extension from wheel tube to the added metal fender flares. This area might have to be altered as the new tires might be 245/40 x 17 with 12" wide wheels and new flares might have to be set higher.
  4. As if the Holidays wasn't keeping me busy already, I had a plumbing leak in the house to repair. But I managed to work on my car. I wanted to "box in" the tension rod support area. I painted the inside of the box with black paint. I used 16 gauge metal for the inner and outer sides of the box. The interior of these pieces were painted with weld through primer. Then they were tack welded in place.Then it was covered by self etching primer to prevent corrosion. I can across a deal that I couldn't pass up. A 2013 Chinese 50CC 4 stroke Moped for only $200. It has only 10 miles on the odometer!! It wasn't running but had compression. Probably carb or ignition problem. Merry Christmas, everyone!!
  5. Richard, Love to see more information and pictures of your beautiful project car when you have the time. Sunny
  6. The car was p[aced on its side to remove rear undercoating. This area is really tight to remove the undercoating. Mostly the undercoating had to heated with the heat gun then hand scraped off. The air scraper was used only on large open areas. After scrapping was done, the 4 1/2 grinder with wire wheel removed most of the remaining underseal.Then the area was media blasted with Number #60 grit abrasive. This media is one step rougher to remove heavy underseal in tight areas. Even so, I had media blast this area several times to do a decent job.
  7. I needed more room to better job sandblasting so blocked off the front hatch area.Put a large plywood to hold up the blue tarp covering the open hatch area.Richard, the spare tire area was cleaned. Saved for now. After blasting, all seams were clean out and spot welded. This area will be primed with self etching primer to prevent corrosion.
  8. Hatch section was masked off carboard,plastic sheets. duct tape and plywood to control sandblasting. Used a plywood sheet to lay down on to do the sandblasting. It was tight and hard to move around and blast. After blasting, still more cleaning necessary. I haven't decided about the tire well yet. But am leaning to remove it and replace it with a fuel cell.
  9. Decided to beef up the seat mounts and keep them off the floor to prevent corrosion. I utilized 1" square box tubing with reinforcing plates on each end. Even if I go to different seats, these mounts should be a good base to start with. driver's side mounts passenger's mounts. Thanks Richard, most people don't realize how much work is actually involved in this type of build.
  10. Tools used for undercoat and paint removal The Veteran Day holiday provide me additonal time to work on my car. I tack welded all of the seams in and out of the engine compartment,Strut tower also welded, A 4 1/2 electricgrinder with twisted wire cup brush was used befotre blasting. The interior of the car masked off so the compartment could be media blasted whjile keeping most media inside the car. All open holes in firewall were masked off using duct tape. The windshield area was covered with large pieces of cardboard. Canvas and plastic sheeting covered doors and hatch areas. Face respirator and face shield were used when media blasting. In this case, 80 grit abrasive was utilized. I used a large wet/dry SHOP VAV to recover the media and reuse the media. A wire mesh filtered the recovered media before reusing.. self etching primer applied to prevent corrosion, The 16 gauge plates above the frame railings reinforce the floor panels.
  11. While in Tokyo, I found this plastic 240Z model car at a toy store. Fairlady Z is what the Japanese called the 240Z. They came with a twin overhead cam engine. Also some had GT front end nose too. This model car was about $20.
  12. One of the reasons that I went to the SEMA Show 2017 was to check on the latest LS motors. This motor is the LS376/480 the updated version of the LS3. It basically has a cam change. the motor produces 495HP and 473 ft lbs of torque. Perfect for me. .This Chevrolet High Performance manual has all necessary part numbers to build and install their motors in almost any car or truck. It gives even measurements for engine and its accessories(air conditioning,power steering,etc).i choose files...Click to choose files.url
  13. Back to the Build. wire brushed the cowl area but vent must be removed to clean area around vent box. So vent cover was carefully removed.After cleaning , area was primed with self-etching primer to prevent rust before media blasting.Driver side cowl after priming. Vent cover after sand blasting and painting with weld thu primer
  14. IMG_1912.MOV Just returned from the SEMA SHOW in Las Vegas. The ROAD KILL 71 240Z with Mustang 5.0 with Ford truck turbo blowing thu Holley carb. Low budget build but with a lot of fabrication work. IMG_1903.MOV A clean Z car with fender flares E we Bored out motor with Weber carbs Wide flared 240Z car. Someone told me that there was a early Z with a Skyline twin cam motor but I must have missed it. There were hundreds of cars and trucks to see at the show.
  15. First pic is top view of restored battery holder. Second is the bottom view of the holder. The third pic is the battery holder "test fitted". I still have not decided whether to install the holder or a marine type of battery box in the rear of car. The last pic is the firewall after I plugged unnecessary holes.
  16. IMG_1837.JPG Underside view of patch

    From the album HD FRAME

  17. IMG_1833.JPG top view of patch

    From the album HD FRAME

  18. IMG_1823.JPG Marked area for removal

    From the album HD FRAME

  19. IMG_1816.JPG Inside View from back

    From the album HD FRAME