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About Boog

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    Bellevue, Washington

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  1. I can definitely tell you like Z's! I've had mine 5 years and have loved every bit of it. As for the update, drove it just a few minutes ago. Going to CV axles eliminated the driveline vibration. I'll probably still do my front diff mount, but I'm not frantically ordering parts now. As for the brakes, there is as expected more pedal travel. I knew this because I didn't upgrade master cylinders yet. There is only maybe another inch or two, definitely nothing bad. The brakes make a whirring sound when I get on them, but I assume the pads are still bedding. I've been accelerating and braking +/- 30 mph as I've read, never coming to a stop. In sure they'll only get better with time. I did my CV axle swap at the same time, and I have a new topic to post regarding that. I still need to crawl under and give everything a little tighten for my conscience sake.
  2. Thanks for the input both of you. I got them bled tonight. The hand brake cables work great, i just swapped their sides over the diff which shortens them a little bit. I zip tied them up out of the way. Brake lines all have correct fittings, no leaks, no kinks. There is one tight turn, but it seems ok. I used brass washers on both sides of the banjo. Unfortunately in the bleeding process I was topping off the wrong master cylinder reservoir. So I actually ran the rear dry, so I ended up using a ton more than expected to make sure I didn't have any bubbles. I'll update on performance when I drive it tomorrow!
  3. Hey guys, Sorry about posting this in the FAQs first, didn't see what category I was in. I recently got the Zcardepot.com Rear disc brake conversion kit, the sport one with the drilled and slotted discs. It uses a maxima caliper. They didn't send me any install information, just a box of parts. I have searched around and haven't found anyone who has documented the install. I did my best to install it how it makes sense, but I want to make sure that it is correct before I bleed the system and drive the car. I've posted some pictures below of my install, sorry for the lighting. I usually do all my work with a headlamp on, so pictures are either too bright or too dark..... I posted a picture of the brake line included, as well as letters showing where they are located on the installed caliper. I used the factory bracket to hold the middle of the brake line fitting. I also used the caliper with the R for right side on the right side of the car. I literally couldn't even find info on how the pads are supposed to be installed. They seem to be left/right specific, as the pad touching the caliper piston has a large tab off the back of it that sticks out. Mostly I am wondering: 1. Is the caliper even in the right position? 2. Is the brake line routed correctly? 3. I read that to make the hand brake cables work, i should swap them across the car so they are short enough to use them on the front of the disc. That is my plan, but have yet to do it. Is it correct? 4.Is there anything I am missing documentation-wise? I can't even find a maxima caliper swap guide. The one I found has broken picture links, so it isn't much use. Thanks in advance!
  4. Thanks for all your input. As an update, the car runs perfect with nothing changed as far as resistors or anything. All I did was tell Megasquirt that I have 440cc injectors now.
  5. Hey guys, quick question. I have an L28ET in my car (with MS) and I am upgrading to supra injectors, the 7mgte ones. From what i have researched, they are 440cc and work with a pallnet 11mm rail, which I just ordered from him. I am confused as to what impedance I need. Here's what I currently believe to be true: L28ET injectors are low impedance, and require the resistor pack to make them work. 7M-GTE injectors are also low impedance, and should be used in my system with my current resistor pack. However, all the 7m-gte injectors on eBay (don't worry, not ordering from there) are listed as high impedance. I just don't want to order the wrong injectors, is there anyone who is running the 440cc injectors on an L28ET who can chime in to what their wiring system is? I don't want to order them before I at least have some answer.....There is so much weird and confusing information out there about this stuff. Thanks in advance!
  6. Compression numbers (1-6): 130, 160, 150, 140, 160, 140. Cold engine, 55 degrees out. I had just enough oil in the bottom of a quart to do a wet test on the #1 cylinder, which brought it up to 160. Couldn't get the pictures on here, but I got them in an album at this link: http://imgur.com/a/fxeX5 Sorry that the plug numbers are out of order in the album.
  7. I'll take pictures and pull a plug tomorrow, I might have time to go out and collect a log. Compression test on Friday. Thanks for the help so far Brian.
  8. They didn't give me any paperwork. I guess that's what I get for going with the cheap guys. They said my block just needed a hone, as it was in good shape. I'm still planning on using the compression tester this weekend, any other information I should gather to come to a conclusion?
  9. I bought ITM pistons with the rings they came with. I used NAPA's machine shop, which is a separate location from their normal chain stores. I assembled everything myself, with proper oiling, lubing, torquing, and ring alignment. I can guarantee you that the gaps are within spec and lined up properly.
  10. So really big update. I tried three things to fix the problem. Firstly I tightened my manifold bolts. Then I went to napa, bought a pcv valve and hooked back up my crank case vent. I also stuck a hose from the valve cover to the throttle body. The smoking stopped completely, I went and drove it around and it was great. However, the idle got all weird. It stumbles between 1500 and 1000 rpm and drives worse. I took the valve cover hose off and capped the throttle body, which made the idle much smoother and it ran way better again. However, with the valve cover hose disconnected and venting to atmosphere, the smoke from the exhaust came back. I love that the smoke is gone, but I can't drive it with that hose connected. Which port on the throttle body should it be connected to? Does this point to valve seals? It doesn't smoke until warm, but it also doesn't smoke when there is vacuum to the valve cover. Help!
  11. I also just had a break through that I hope comes to fruition. My crank case vent is basically the oem hose turned down with a filter, wedged near the motor mount. Based on my symptoms I have told you guys, plus what I assume is my leaking main seal and my leaking capped turbo return bung, I think that my hose might be kinked and that there is no crank case venting. All that pressure is causing the the seal to leak in the rear (apparently this is common on mustang 5.0's). I am going to go check it right now and I'll report back. I am also going to hook back up the valve cover vent to the intake. EDIT: My vent hose was not kinked. I tried re positioning it, but no fix. I also paid close attention to when the engine started smoking. I started the car up, and there was no smoke. I gave it a very light rev, no smoke. I was starting to think it was fixed until the tail pipe started wisping smoke around the 2-3 minute mark. It then got worse and worse as the engine warmed up. After it was decently warm, I gave it a rev up to about 4k, and smoke blew out. I also noticed the wall behind the tail pipe had a black soot circle on it. 2 feet away, and it left a black circle probably 8 inches around. Is it possible I have oil in my exhaust that is burning off?
  12. Hey guys, small update. I really took care to watch the exhaust while doing a short drive on it today. I really beat the heck out of it, and made sure to do a ton of engine braking. The smoke occurs on acceleration, deceleration, and transitioning between the two the most. When idling, it really doesn't smoke at all. It also didn't smoke at all when I started it, or when it was warming up for 5 minutes idling. Isn't this different from valve seal symptoms? I thought those leaked down into the cylinder and smoked a ton on startup. Compression test is planned for this weekend.
  13. I no longer am running a turbo, I was before but my oil pump failed and killed everything in the engine oil related. I am back to NA until I can get the engine running happily and solid, then I'll consider slapping the turbo back on. The machine shop said that the cylinders just needed a light hone, so I went with standard size new pistons and rings. The reason I got new pistons is because the old ones were donezo after running with no oil, and the donor block had flat tops. My head is slightly higher compression, so I decided to just stick dished ones in it on the off chance I go turbo again soon. Today I was able to drive the car about 10 miles of city driving, with a few small pulls. The oil smoke has definitely gone down, but is definitely not gone. I am definitely considering just doing the valve seals, for peace of mind. All things considered, they would be about 80 bucks and a few hours time to knock out. I'll do the compression test first though.
  14. Thanks for the ideas. I'll head out today and do the second gear pulls. The majority of my driving so far has been spirited, not beating on the car but not just putting around town. The reason I have been thinking it isn't valve seals is because the worst of the smoke is just starting off driving from a stop. However, I took my head to a NAPA machine shop for the work and I HIGHLY doubt they replaced the seals. Then again, I highly doubt they even pulled off the valves.
  15. Hi guys, I just recently finished rebuilting my L28 in my 280z. It is NA, F54 block, N42 head. I had a machine shop check and hone the cylinders, as well as tank the block. Head was "gone over" as they said, but I put new valve seals in it within the last year or so prior to this. Fresh plugs, fresh rotor and wires, 80 miles on the rebuild so far. New oil pump, water pump, bearings, pistons, and rings. I did all the assembly myself. The motor has great oil pressure, also great operating temperature. My main problem is it has been puffing oil smoke.This blue smoke occurs when I am on mid throttle, just starting out from a stop light, or maybe some on heavy throttle or engine braking. I can easily make it puff a plume if I give it a light rev up to 3 or 4 thousand, after it has been warmed up of course. There is no oil smoke on startup, which makes me think that the valve guides are fine still. It also stays the same or maybe gets worse with warming up. I am worried that I did not break my engine in properly. I had some trouble getting it started at first with megasquirt, and I ran it with incorrect timing (around 10 degrees) for the first 10-15 miles before I realized the problem and fixed it. It also may have ran rich. My main concern is that my rings did not seat properly. I cannot think of any other problem, as it does not match the symptoms of valve seals. My valve cover and my crank case are both vented to atmosphere with filters, as I could not retain my crank case vent to the intake with my headers. Am I right in assuming that these are not contributing to oil smoke? I am planning on doing both a compression test and a wet compression test as soon as I can borrow a tester from a friend. Until then, does anyone have an idea on what is causing the problem, or what I can do to fix it? I had the car running before the rebuild with the vented valve cover and crank case, and they did not cause the exhaust to smoke like this. I am worried my rings did not seat properly, Thanks in advance for your input.