jessejames

Im also interested in dash, center console and doors for a 240z.

I've got the efr 6258. I'm really impressed with the build quality and the packaging. I've not installed it yet as its too cold. Heres a couple of pics. http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/7401/20110121140017.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I was on the phone with Full Race today. I think there manifold will fit with some modifcation. I purchased the EFR6258 turbo. Im going to wait on the manifold. You can find more info here. http://www.full-race.com/articles/borgwarner-efr-turbos.html

I have nothing against running another manifold. I just like the idea of running a twinscroll manifold. Does the peak boost manifold spool just as fast?

IM considering buying the full race twinscroll top mount manifold and the gtx3071r for my sr20. Can anyone tell me if the manifold will fit? Is there any advantage to using duel wastgates?

My Buddy put the vid up. Don't mind the talk. Enjoy

I'm seeing 210F at the track and I pit in. Usually on the Street i'm between 180-190F. How how is too hot for these motors? Thanks

Hey guys, I'm posting on behalf of Jesse as I was doing some trouble shooting on his car (A no power situation). Fusible link was good, so I started checking continuity from there to the ignition switch, and there was a lot of resistance. So I figured it had to be where the ammeter wires were joined (As he no longer has one in the car). So anyways, upon looking back there, the two wires are completely burnt up and green. I held them together to give the car some power and they heated up almost immediately. Now he does have fuel injection in this car, and from what I can see, it's all running through that one main wire coming off the starter (I could be wrong, but I don't think so). I have done the same thing with my classic Mustang, but I used separate 10gauge wires running to the relays for the incoming high power (to the relays). It looks to me like whomever did the wiring for the fuel injection used relays, but didn't give them their own power from the battery. HOWEVER, I'm not sure if that is the problem. If the whole system was drawing too much power (And making the ammeter wires, which all power has to flow through) heat up, you'd think the fusible link would burn up, or at least start getting warm, but it doesn't seem to me like any of the other wires are getting hot. Anyone experience this problem?

I purchase a 4age from tigerjapanese about 12 years ago. There service was ok but the engine was good. I went back to tigerjapanese in 2007 to purchase my sr20det. The staff were too lazy to move the s13 engines out of the way so that I could look at an s14 engine. They asked me to come back another day. I live an hour away and did not want to go home empty handed. I then went to torontojdm and looked at their selection. Prices were very similar. Service was much better. The first engine we looked at had very bad compression in one of the cyclinders. So I end up having to buying an s13 blacktop. When I took the engine home I realized the ignitor chip was damaged. I went back a week later and they replaced it free of charge.

any idea what the stock seats and bumpers weigh on a 1973 Z?

It really depends on what you want to use the car for. Is this daily driven? Track car? Drag car? Both engines are awesome. You cant go wrong either way. My goal was 350whp and less weight. I know the RB could do that almost stock. But it weighs 200lbs more than the SR20. Plus most parts have the RB tax. Try to figure out where you want to go and then figure out how to get there.

I went with the sr cause it can give me the power I want with less weight.

I was looking for pictures of volk te37 wheels on s30z and I found this. http://prolifik-one.com/2010/05/26/rocky-auto-carbon-fiber-s30-z/ Enjoy. Also if anyone has the te37 on their s30z could you please post some pics along with size and offset. Thanks.

I have the Whitehead Performance cradle. It also came with a transmission mount as well. Greg and Mike are great to deal with. http://www.whiteheadperformance.com/

There are threads on this board about showcars-bodyparts. I have never purchased from them. But do your research here before you buy from them.

What do you think of using a fuel filter as a catch can? I have attached a link. Do you think this is a good idea? I'm afraid the filter would clog and not let air to pass through. Any advice? Thanks

any more pics of the victory spoiler? I really would prefer to see some before I buy. Thanks.

Johnc, when you did amir's swap you managed to get his car down to around 2100lbs right? How did you reduced 200lbs off the car?

I just weighed my 73 240z with an sr20det in it. I have a full interior. Stock suspension and stock brakes. I have stock bumpers without the over riders. I have removed the spare wheel and gas tank. I have an atl 15 gal cell. I weigh 165lbs. I had close to 90%full gas tank. With me in the car, the weight came in at 2560lbs. I'm alittle disapointed. I'm going to be switching to an r200 with the 300z cv's and groundcontrol coilovers in the next couple of weeks. I will weigh it again then. I weighed my car at a local cat scale truck stop.

Problem solved. I had a leak from the solenoid to the actuator.

Here is the link the to manual http://www.blitzpowerusa.com/techsupport/pdf/sbc_i-d_iii.pdf I know have a proper reading on boost on both the controller and gauge. The Controller is overboosting. I set the boost to 10psi and it hit 18psi. I then lowered the boost setting to 7psi and it hit 9psi. The gain was set to about 10. The controller is on automatic mode.

I've got an sr20det with an autometer boost gauge and a blitz sbc ID spec R controller. I set the controller to 10psi and took it for a spin. The gauge read 15psi while the controller was only showing 7psi. I unhooked the controller and installed the factory vacuum lines and then took it for a drive again. This time both the controller and the gauge read the same psi around 7-8psi. I then connected both the boost controller and the gauge to a air compressor and they both read the same 15psi that i had set it too. In the car both the controller and gauge are reading pressure from the hose between the FPR and intake manifold. Please Help!

I've installed an SR20 and am trying to clean up some of the wires behind the dash. It would be helpful if someone could chime in and identify what some of the wires in the following pictures. It's a 1973. Thank you.

I've got an S13 Blacktop sr20det. I'm running a walbro 255 pump, a FMIC, and 3inch full exhaust. I've been reading that 10psi is the maximum safe boost levels. Two local shops. Saisan motorsports and SG Motorsports say I should be able to run 13-14psi on my setup. Any recommendations? On a side note I'm switching to an electronic boost controller. I've decided to go with the Blitz SBC ID, just not sure if I should go with the Spec S or the Spec R. The Spec R has two solenoids. Does it really make that much of a difference. My plan was to eventually switch my turbo to a GT2871r. Any suggestions help. Thank you.