260zman

First of all, has this engine setup in your z previously run prior to the MAF problem? if not, then did you wire up the MAF? the autoelectrician which did mine, wired my MAF incorrectly (2 wires switched around) and so it started, smoked (really rich) and then over fueled itself. Not sure if this is same as the problem you've got, but check the wiring and check what colour sticker is on your MAF, from memory i think you require a pink sticker.

Hey Kiwi303, love your work! i'd be a keen starter if you get this into production. I've always wanted an alloy oilpan in my 260z, instead of my custom one (tank switched around, new baffles, extended wings etc). keep us posted with whats goin on!

Jeez guys! they're only spacers for bolts. All i did (last week) for mine was used some 1/2"OD stainless tube which is just about 3/8" ID. i cut off the spacers 10mm long in my drop saw (nothing techo about this i know, but my lathe aint going right now), then linished the burr off the ends, used a bigger drill bit to remove internal burrs, and then pressed them (or use a vice/big hammer and anvil) into the 12mm holes. when linishing the ends, i put a bit of a lead in on one end to help guide the bush into the housing. The 1/2" tube is an absolutely perfect interference fit in the hole (1/2" = 12.7mm) and if they've been pushed in squarely, they wont require much for the 10mm bolt to go in. I think i had to ream 2 or 3 with a 10mm drill bit but that was about it. So there you go, it took me around 20-30 minutes all up to make them up, and i had no idea when i opened the diff up to swap ring gears -that i would have to make spacer bushes. Some people do try to apply rocket science to things that arent going to the moon.

I'm running the factory fan. and also the factory datsun radiator shroud (on a 260z radiator with the outlet pipe swapped over). i had to do very minor mods so that if the motor flexed any on the mounts the fan wouldnt chew the shroud- but nothing dificult.. i guess it depends on what engine mounts you are using, as it would dictate whether it would be high or low within the shroud. i know there have been guys who didnt use a shroud and had overheating issues until they put one on.

the front Brakes will go on, by either redrilling the R33 rotors to suit the 4 stud or buying new 4 stud skyline rotors (these are available- i got some which are 310mm diameter- ventilated). use the R33 front brakes with an adapter plate to fit them to the datsun strut. the skyline strut will not work without totally redsigning the front end. Rear brakes: the R33 rears have an internal drum handbrake inside the rotor. i tried to use this style rear brake but it makes it really hard to adapt. i know u're trying to use as much of the half cut as possible but in the case of suspension stuff, prob not altogther useable.

whoops, sorry- i didnt tell you what car that diff came out of!! It was an 1988 R31 GTS skyline, japanese spec. (so had the rb20det, independant rear end, r200lsd, 4ws, and the front struts you can directly bolt 4 pot skyline brakes onto). it has to be jap spec as Australian ones dont have the same diff, but have a solid rear axle. You should be able to still buy the drive unit from Nissan. hope this helps.

There were several different ratios. It depends on model of skyline, and if it came out of an automatic vehicle, as what i've found is they are quite a bit different. i found on these forums once upon a time, a list of all the ratios, and the speedo drive gears (colour of the drive gear is different for each ratio). for the ratio you're looking at, its the same as mine, which came out of an R31 rb20det (old red top motor), it had the longnose r200 LSD, and i think the plastic speedo drive was blue. not sure if i've helped?!!

Hi folks, Heres mine- a 260z 2+2 with a s2 rb25det. Only 'finished' it about 3 weeks before leaving to go to Canada for 8 months! so i have something very tempting to go home to now!! Cant wait to get back home and get some more Km's under its belt. Its only running on the factory ecu for now, but will be changed to probably a Link G3 when i get some more money. Disk brake rear, 4 pot skyline fronts, adjustable koni's allround. Exhaust is a twin pipe- 2.25" diameter. I did it like this cos i wanted to get away from the "chuffy" sounding 3" or large diameter pipe, and have a "tight" sounding but flowey enough exhaust. it sounds amazing, not at all like the average skyline boy racer with big bore- which is what i wanted. Was way harder to make though! Let me know what ya think! Justin.

Hi folks. These are some photos i took last weekend in Japan at the Nagano Nostalgic car show. ok ok i know theyre not in zed cars but hey gotta love the exhaust on that GTR! they're all out of GTRs actually, i was a bit dissapointed by lack of 240z's- only 2.

he he, this may surprise me as i've never listed my mods or car parts used! 1974 260z S2 Rb25det R33 skyline motor. Diff- Jap r31 skyline r200 Front brakes- Skyline R32 Gtst 4 pots, and rotors. Rear brakes- Mitsubishi vr4 callipers. R30 turbo skyline rotors. Front struts- R31 turbo skyline. Gearbox- R32 rb20det skyline, Master cylinder- 280zx 15/16" driveshaft- 260z. rear sway bar- R31 skyline again! Shock Absorbers- Koni adjusties- Z31 300zx Radiator -260z, hoses- r32 skyline. Hmmm, will probably think of more later but thats a start. Thats only 8.

Yeah, i was pretty keen to go to BC, but then a house swap situation came up in Edmonton, and a few good job opportunity for my wife so decided on there. I'm unsure how jobs will go, i'm a fitter by trade, but i'll give anything a go!!! New update on my 260z with rb25det: i got it home tonight from the auto electricians. Bled the clutch. and now i just need to get a fuel leak sorted and a bit of a timing check and she should be good to go!! its running real rich, which could be due to the fact i havent set the fuel pressure on the pressure regulator. at least it wont lean out! Now as for you fellow kiwis offering to look after my beast!! insurance you say kiwi303?!! now thats something i need to organize. i'm 27, have lost my licence once due to too many speeding tickets and i'm a little freeked of what my insurance bill is going to be for a turboed classic!!

You wouldnt believe how many guys have said that to me!!! Thanks for the very kind offer though!!

Hi everyone, I'm all very excited!! First of all its because my rb25det cranked into life this week, so i should be creating some tire smoke this weekend all going well!!!!! And secondly, in June my wife and i are going to live in Edmonton, which will be our home until early 2010. We are leaving New Zealand in May, going to Japan to get a Japanese Nostalgia Car show and plus what ever other car stuff i can see (any suggestions!!). Then we flying to Vancouver, hopefully buy a camper or van we can live out of, and then we drive down the west coast of the U.S, eventually getting back up into Canada and to Edmonton by the beginning of July. I have no idea what i'm gonna do work wise, but i'll sort something out. However i'm keen to catch up with a few fellow z owners, and maybe i can get a few spare parts etc to take back to NZ! Whats your thoughts my fellow zedphiles?!! Anything going on that we should most definitely not miss? ANyone in Vancouver with a van for sale?!! Cheers guys. Justin

There are different clamping styles available. First off theres the good ol drill vice. http://cgi.ebay.com/New-HDC-4-Steel-Iron-Drill-Press-Vise-Machine-7005_W0QQitemZ350158523765QQcmdZViewItemQQptZClamps_Vises?hash=item350158523765&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50 Then theres the adjustable locking clamp system (works like locking pliers but with only the top arm). http://cgi.ebay.com/9-DRILL-PRESS-LOCK-CLAMP-Vise-Hold-Fast-Precision_W0QQitemZ140298323764QQcmdZViewItemQQptZClamps_Vises?hash=item140298323764&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50 PLus theres the slot bolt sets you can get. these are fairly cheap and i reccomend you get a set. http://cgi.ebay.com/52-Pc-Clamping-Kit-Clamp-1-2-T-Slot-For-Bridgeport-Mill_W0QQitemZ390026984512QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Tool_Work_Holding?hash=item390026984512&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50 i find that the lock down clamp works real quick and easy for the basic stuff, and plus its good just for holding the vise in position. hope this helps as we dont want you doing anymore 'helicopters'!!

Well done on the lathe score!! You'll have endless enjoyment/frustrations with it!! What tooling did you get with it or using? high speed steel, or carbide inserts? the old school way and cheapest way is using high speed steel which you have to grind to get the correct cutting angles and tip rake. these are probably the most useful for a homebased machinist doing the odd bit of machining, as you can make just about any tool although you'll have to spend a little bit of time learning how to gring the toolsteel correctly. Carbide inserts are awesome but not usually very cheap. the tool holders for them are however! Speed and feed is very important as well as Minimal overhang. by this i mean, dont hang stuff out of the chuck more than necessary, and same goes for the tool. this will help with surface finish and stop things climbing out of the chuck! Just a few things which may help?