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getZ

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  1. 72 240z 383sbc with many mods

    title now in hand. I will talk to the bank about how to do the transaction.
  2. 72 240z 383sbc with many mods

    I will try and get the pics tonight. I have the long adjustment tubes from modern motorsport and two sets of springs (250 lbs) springs in different lengths.
  3. 72 240z 383sbc with many mods

    I assume you mean pics of only the rear suspension? What are you looking for exactly? Do you want to see possible rust areas, craftsmanship, etc. The only reason I ask is the view is pretty limited with so much stuff in the way. If you name specifics I can focus better. There are some picures of the CVs, fuel pump and a few other parts in the archives is you do a search on getz.
  4. 72 240z 383sbc with many mods

    I haven't noticed any cracks, but I have never launched the car hard on a drag strip. Driving it 800 miles? I'm not so sure, personaly I wouldn't do it. My biggest concerns were overheating and running out of gas. Right now the temperature is cycling between 195 and 165 as the thermostat opens and closes so it looks like it has capacity in the cooling system. I've had a couple of issues with the low speed fan not coming on, but I never found the problem, it kind just starts working again. On a more positive note the high speed has never failed. I would guess there is a bad connection somewhere. The gas guage doesn't seem to have the right range. It has a new sending unit, but it only goes to almost half when the tank is full. When it's about empty the guage does read empty.
  5. 72 240z 383sbc with many mods

    I'm lowering the price to $6500. It has a Holley 750 hp now with mechanical secondaries and a battery kill switch for the track.
  6. 73' 240Z 7MGTE 500+ rwhp

    What are you going to do if you sell the car? Gardening? See, that's why you work on cars.
  7. it's hard to tell how far in the headers tilt toward the engine block. That's one area of concern to keep it away from the frame rails. I run block huggers on a JTR setup and it runs really close to the steering linkage on the driver side as well. If you are running MSA or Scarab motor mounts there are long tube headers made for those mounting positions.
  8. Like I said before, the idea I had was for a drag race only setup. It would also be for a dedicated race car. The fan could be put in place of the passenger seat, much like the intercooler setup the NMCA guys are running. The fan will not be running for more than a few minutes at a time. One of the problems with big fans is they take forever to spool up to speed. With an electric fan you could spool the fan up and just blow the excess air out, like a waste gate. During a launch you reroute the air to the engine intake. Getting three phase out of DC shouldn't be that hard with a phase converter and an ac convertor. Although this may not be necessary, the torque of a three phase may not be necessary if you plan to spool the fan up ahead of time.
  9. seriously, I think it would work, but why would you want to do that over just running a regular turbo or centrifical super charger? Take a look at the tesla electric car, powered by a three phase motor, you wouldn't need a motor that powerful.
  10. I've kicked the idea around of an electric turbo, but something much more sophisticated and for a drag racing burst only. If you used a big bank of lithium ion batteries on a big three phase fan, I'm sure you could get big boost, but the trade off would be the weight of the extra batteries plus the monstrous price tag that goes with it. The thing in the hyperlink is junk, but I think an electric turbo is possible.
  11. MM + R200 = trashed diff.

    Believe it or not I had the whole assembly masked off pretty well when I grinded. The only place I couldn't mask off real tight was around the splines themselve and I wiped the whole thing down several times with alchohol before taking the picture. Without the flash you could not see any of the dust in just normal lighting. The camera flash really makes it look filthy, but it's fine dust not shavings. I used a cutoff wheel on a dremel tool, it sounds slow, but it only took about 15 minutes a side and never put enough heat into the shaft where it was uncomfortable to touch.
  12. ?????? Nobody said anything about flipping inner part of the CV. I only flipped the outside ball bearing cage as per MMS instructions.
  13. You don't need to cut back quite that far. You can gain quite a bit without having to recut the groove. Pictures and all: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134383&highlight=300zxt&page=2 The thread is getting a little old now, but the pictures say it all.
  14. Location for wideband O2?

    You should be able to put it where the two collectors become one. It's not super critical. Just remember to point the sensor down slightly or you'll get condensation on the sensor and over time it will fail. I use a wideband to watch over my AFR, but keep in mind with carburetors your target AFR is not always the same number over the entire rpm band if you are tuning for best power. I'm going back to tuning old school and watching vacuum. The air fuel meter is more for reference and to give me and idea of whats going on during differenct conditions and throttle positions.
  15. even with the right CV shafts the axles may be to wide. It seems the guys having problems are the ones running the aftermarket LSD's. I have a power brute and somebody else had a Quaife., I don't know if the stock Nissan LSD had problems. Somewhere in one of the posts, somebody put the specs on the shaft lengths. There is definitely a long side and a short side.
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