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build after 24 years

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Nobody understands such work and it doesn't make any sense. It's even worse. The guy in the bodyshop now told me the car had an accident. Was repaired by exchanging the radiator support welded over the wrinkeld inner fender and needs to go on a jig. (he has like 30 or so z in his garage quite some parts to use) but thanks for your infos.


Indeed it is a full resto. but I putt the car in the garage in 1988 with this in my mind. It took just a bit longer to start it then I thought :-)

and yes the engine is a good result. Exactly the way i wanted it with even a bit more hp then I thought.



About the noise I will first try to pass with a not so restricting system but nead to figure out a bit more about the test.

With the idea from tony with the endpipe direction (You explained that in another tread). second partial changable and last full change.

The Intake should be ok with the lamborghini filterbox im going to use for the test.

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Some more pics


Half shafts powdercoated and reassembled.



Strut derusted powdercoated assembled and Big Brake Kit installed



Reassembling the Differential



The last thing on the suspension is the back.

Disc conversion kit I bought did not meet my quality standard. Therefore I have to customize it before I can reassemble the rear struts.


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Hmm that's unfortunate about the car having been hit, At least it wasn't bad enough that it was obvious that it had happened. Putting it on the Jig should align everything well enough that it won't ever be an issue. It's not nice to find surprises. Always more $$, no to repair it are they going to pull that Rad support out and fix the wrinkled metal, or are they just going to smooth things as best they can?  If he's got parts cars, it may be easier to have him just replace the sections again. Perhaps the whole front, forward of the swap bar mounts? it's up to you how much you'd want him to do, and what you can live with, but in a full restore, knowing it's right is priceless.


Please tell us what you're using for your big brakes? It looks like slotted vented calipers, maybe Z31, I'm not certain. I can't identify the calipers, but they look similar to the Skyline calipers, the picture isn't clear enough.    What was wrong with the rear brakes?  What kit did you buy, and what did you find was wrong with it?





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Yes, in the quest for quiet, the EFI S30's actually had a plastic snorkel with silencer built in, that went to the passenger's fender and sucked air from inside there!


When you put a CAI on one, it's whistling, wheezing, growling.... It was louder in the car than my double muffler exhaust! So I put the stock box back on. No performance drop.


One thing I looked at was the spacing of some of the BMW M-Series Engines and their intake plenum and feed hose. They are heavy...but would definitely muffle intake resonant roar! (The do a nice job on the BMW's!)


Good Luck on your tests. Let us know how it turns out.

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My idea is to have no soldering visible no body filler where possible. Yes I want him to pull that Rad support out and fix the wrinkled metall. I want to have it done right this time.


The fronts are Toyota 4 Runner (Piston 43mm, 43mm) with 271mm Rotor vented not slotted.


The problem with the back brakes is the template they use to drill the studholes is not well centered. therefore the rotor center is asynchrone to the hub center (would work but not in balance).

Now I have to drill the studholes bigger and construct a ring to adjust the two centers (Rotor Center is bigger then the Hubcenter).


And TonyD

Yes I love The M series engines and intake plenums (I used to be a BMW mechanic in the 80's)

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This Is the first draft (exportet in jpg) to use with my 3D Printer to print a template. I have also DWG, 3DS, and STL files if someone wants them.




To print there are 2 templates. a negative and a positive to spray the colors one after the other.

Edited by munters

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Nice,  What 3d Printer do you have?  I've got a Prusa and an i3.  I do a little design work. You can also inkjet onto 1mm white plastic.  Pretty cool. I wouldn't mind a copy of the design files.


Its a Multimaker

I Attached the Fuel and Volt template as a positive and negative (first the white bar and then the small black line in the white ). I din't have the time till now to print them. check them before you print.


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Finally the Body is done...


It tooks a lot of time (over a year) and it was frustrating, because I could not go and check it. 600Miles is just to far to go and look quickly.

But finally I was able to pick it up and the work he has done is quite good.


















Edited by munters

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Yes, I was waiting for 8 month or so for the body to be ready. All the restored parts are waiting... I even found the Synchron rings for the FS5C71A in Australia.

All Drivetrain parts powdercoated and waiting to putt on.


The paint is a No 1 Job I have to say. Zero Orange peel.

Some pics before I went to Canada for the Holidays.

1-5 is at the pickup and 6-11 is my place

all painted. Inside and underneat as well in body color.

Happy me as soon I come back i have to find a way to heat my place to start the assembly.











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Welcome back its been along time, looks like it has had alot of work done, will it be painted when you pick it up?

how much more do you need to do before you can drive her?

Oh, Yes, It has been a long time.

Actually I don't need too much anymore. I already bought every gasket, bearing (and installed them of course) and screw new.


(exept the screws for the underbody. I will buy them as I need them and new Brake and fuel lines should arrive the next few days while I`m on holidays.)


The whole interior is already repaired and all pannels covered in black leather.


Now I "just" need to assemble everything.

Edited by munters

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Great color, I love it. It's only going to look better as you add parts.

Yea I love the color as well. It took me a long time to find this one within all the blues between 1970 and 1973 to keep it Vintage.

I also look foreward to see it getting better with every bit installed.

Edited by munters

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Finally I could start with the assembly/Panless(Full) cabling.

First was the realocating of the Fusebox and build a box around the fusebox to protect it from feets under the dash.

Take bundles apart to rebundle them for the Z. change it for Europe usage and not US. like flasher/brake seperated and no park lights.






next step is to build a cover to protect the cables at the exit of the box.

I ordered also a lot of parts from nix240 to install new Brake and fuel lines (4.75mm Brake, 8mm Fuel feed and 6mm Fuel back)

Hope to be able to work sometimes from now on, but at the moment I get just 46° max in my place...

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Time passes so quick and Im not a good writer so I guess I just add some Pics.

The cable installation is not Painless at all.





Build a tool to straighten the brake lines



Then the dampening everywhere



Rebuild the diff



Rebuild the transmission





Installed the leather interieur and dash




Take some time off



Installed the rear end






Installed the engine and front axle at the same tine (sorry blurry pics)

You can see the yellow battery it's a LiFeYPO4 battery (Lithium Ferrum Yttrium Phosphate) I love it. Extremly powerfull.




Take some time off again



At the moment I am at the Carb tuning stage.

a lot to read and learn because the last time I tuned the carbs is 29 years ago with this car (don't remember that much).

End of installation pics will fellow.

Edited by munters

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