Jasonmreiss Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 I have cracks in my dash that I was going to try the fix on. I've heard it would probably crack again so I want to try something different. I already widened the gaps a bit to get rid of the rotten foam. My question is, can I put regular bondo in the cracks to even it all out before I glass? I don't suppose I could try a just gap over the cracks with the glass? I can put up pics if needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Glassing the whole thing has been documented plenty. Why fill it with bondo and not foam? Heavier, more expensive, more time consuming... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LanceVance Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 I used wire to 'stitch' the dash back together, then I filled with foam. The wire held the foam from curving up at the edges, and gave it enough rigidity to glass without any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galderdi Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 I used bondo to repair the cracks in a 240z dash and then used the dash to make a mold. From the mold I made a brand new glass dash. I think the results are pretty good but in hindsight I should have cut the mold to make it multi piece. That way it would have released easier. But all things considered it was a good result. It will last long term and its light weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonmreiss Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 Ive done lots of reading on the other dash projects. That's why I decided to tackle it myself. I just wanted to use the materials I have already instead of buying more. I'll buy the foam if I need to though. I don't have cracks as big as lancevance but they are about a half inch wide. 3 of them above the pods. So will there be a problem with the thick chunk of bondo in there if I glass the entire top half of the dash? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 If you glass the whole top it doesn't hardly matter what's underneath, the glass isn't going to crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearheadstik Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 I am trying to build a mold for the 260z 280z dashes, to be able to mold fiberglass replacement dashes. I had a really nice dash with only one small crack but have chose to sacrifice it to make a mold... Sure hope I don't regret it. I am going to do a write up when getting close to completion. You would be able to mount original gauges, heater controls, and glove box lid. I will probably then fill the glove box lid and smooth for a race dash option, then build another mold. I figure if I can accomplish this it would be a good option for everyone thinking of dash repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayven14 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 If you glass the whole top it doesn't hardly matter what's underneath, the glass isn't going to crack. +1 Fiberglass is pretty tough stuff, In this case I think your more than safe going down the path your on. Be sure to post pics of the finished product Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonmreiss Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 Ok will do. I'm at a standstill with everything else anyway due to money. This is cheap, and will help me practice for more advanced fg fabrication. Like console, hatch area, and door skins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 I am trying to build a mold for the 260z 280z dashes, to be able to mold fiberglass replacement dashes. I had a really nice dash with only one small crack but have chose to sacrifice it to make a mold... Sure hope I don't regret it. I am going to do a write up when getting close to completion. You would be able to mount original gauges, heater controls, and glove box lid. I will probably then fill the glove box lid and smooth for a race dash option, then build another mold. I figure if I can accomplish this it would be a good option for everyone thinking of dash repair. How much are you planning on selling those for? I was thinking about doing it at one time (along with a whole list of other things I've yet to make time for) but then I saw that someone already does it and that was kind of a turn off. Although theirs aren't exactly cheap... If I were to do it though my intent would be to make it like factory, this guy doesn't offer a glove box version etc. http://www.pdkfabrication.com/Dash.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonmreiss Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 Yeah that's a bit spendy for all the extra work it'd take. I'm not too worried about weight. Fg seems pretty easy to work with anyway. I'm inexperienced, but have read lots of projects. More for car stereo stuff but it's all the same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearheadstik Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 (edited) How much are you planning on selling those for? I was thinking about doing it at one time (along with a whole list of other things I've yet to make time for) but then I saw that someone already does it and that was kind of a turn off. Although theirs aren't exactly cheap... If I were to do it though my intent would be to make it like factory, this guy doesn't offer a glove box version etc. http://www.pdkfabrication.com/Dash.htm Yes, but theirs is a 240 dash... I plan on the 280z first since I dont think anyone makes them.... Not sure on price yet, good fiberglass is not cheap and a ton of time is going into the mold, it will prob be about the same as theirs... Just have to see how much it takes once mold is made. Been working on it but its pretty complex when u have to fill in all the the openings with something rigid like steel... Then the bondo anf primer work... I will try to post a pic today of what I have so far. Edited February 22, 2012 by gearheadstik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dershum Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 (edited) What about wrapping it in vinyl material (like used for seats, not stickers)? I think you'd have to use something other than bondo as your surface material, since I don't think that most 3M-style adhesives stick very well to it. Maybe something like RTV, that's been smoothed over top of spray-in foam? I've been kind of thinking of doing something similar, instead of some of the very extensive repair jobs that others have done. Most of them are gorgeous, but I'm looking for something a little simpler and possibly more durable. I've done some searching here but I haven't seen anything quite similar to what I'm thinking, but I did find a couple links online to others that had done something like this: http://www.vtr.org/m...ecovering.shtml Edited February 22, 2012 by Dershum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearheadstik Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 (edited) don'tnt know how much they would charge, but thought about building a few fiberglass ones and sending them to someone like these guys and having them covered if you wanted to look just like the real thing.... I bet they would look perfect.. Watch the vid. Edited February 22, 2012 by gearheadstik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearheadstik Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 (edited) What about wrapping it in vinyl material (like used for seats, not stickers)? I think you'd have to use something other than bondo as your surface material, since I don't think that most 3M-style adhesives stick very well to it. Maybe something like RTV, that's been smoothed over top of spray-in foam? I've been kind of thinking of doing something similar, instead of some of the very extensive repair jobs that others have done. Most of them are gorgeous, but I'm looking for something a little simpler and possibly more durable. I've done some searching here but I haven't seen anything quite similar to what I'm thinking, but I did find a couple links online to others that had done something like this: http://www.vtr.org/m...ecovering.shtml Just a warning, The vinyl used for things like that does not stretch much and when it does, it distorts the pattern. I used to work in a auto upholstery shop... The contact glue is not a problem it sticks to most everything when used right. Edited February 22, 2012 by gearheadstik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dershum Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Just a warning, The vinyl used for things like that does not stretch much and when it does, it distorts the pattern. I used to work in a auto upholstery shop... The contact glue is not a problem it sticks to most everything when used right. Would maybe using fiberglass mats underneath the vinyl help with something like this? Or is it more of a function of heat/movement of the material itself, and not what's underneath it? Also, what about putting a thin layer of padding between...you'd end up almost with something like a modern dash where it has a little "give" under the material on top. Almost like a nice leather dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Would maybe using fiberglass mats underneath the vinyl help with something like this? Or is it more of a function of heat/movement of the material itself, and not what's underneath it? I believe he's saying that the vinyl doesn't allow for much stretch during installation. The vinyl they use for seats etc. doesn't go around complex contours very well. That video was cool, at first I thought they were just making dash caps out of abs. I wish I had a thermo table that large. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dershum Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 I believe he's saying that the vinyl doesn't allow for much stretch during installation. The vinyl they use for seats etc. doesn't go around complex contours very well. Ah, I get you now. I still might give it a try though. I'm thinking it might be possible to make the cover in a few pieces and stitch them together nicely along the surface edges...must consider this further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonmreiss Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 This is what I'm starting with. I'll start filling in the cracks with bondo tonight, and should be able to sand and start fiberglassing tomorrow. I'm just trying to think of anything to add or delete before I start it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearheadstik Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 (edited) Here is what I started with the tape marking my cracks and the next pic is the dash with most everything plugged up for the mold... Maybe tomorrow I will get it in primer and smoothed out. Take note you guys repairing your dashes and let me know what kinda time and money you have in it by the time your through... Hoping this will be a good option for people instead of paying the 1k plus that a dash in great shape cost.... Edited February 23, 2012 by gearheadstik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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