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redzedturbo

red rocket 280zx build

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Hey guys sorry for the long wait! almost a month ago i went under the knife to get my super crappy pain in my low back fixed and had my right si joint fused together with some new titanium pins (to save weight) i told them not to use stainless BECAUSE RACECAR!!! Its been a few weeks now and i cant remember ever feeling this good. So back to the zx racecar. The broken gear is ordered for the z32 box and im soon to be ready for the racetrack. For those of you that dont know look up ncm raceway in bowling green ky. more to come.

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Well between japan and texas nissan dealer i have all the keys and spring rings and junk for this z32 box! hopefully next week xnke and myself will get it together and in the car. Just for the record if any of you guys plan to go this route save your self some cash and alot of time just buy a 98+ jdm transmission with 25k miles on it and call it a day. it would have been cheaper for me to pay 800 for a known good box than get a junkyard one for 100 bucks then 300 for master rebuild kit then 100 for small broken parts and worn out things that do not come in the MASTER rebuild. All to crack the center plate (plate adapter) of the trans trying to press it apart to do the rebuild in the first place! By the way the plate adapter from nissan is $110 and it is a revision so you got to buy the new 1st gear to work with the new plate $298. so if you have as much trouble as we did this fresh new fs5r30a trans will cost you a wopping 900 bones not counting man hours if you pay someone to do it for you. And lets not forget the $400 L6 Adapter from hoke and bell machine work ohh and a new drive shaft too. I hope this thing is unbreakable in the end. soon guys soon!!!!

Edited by redzedturbo

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Well guys all is well in the datsun world the infamous r30a box got finished last night after 10 hours of cursing. wooohhh it is hanging out in the hatch of my subaru untill next saterday then going into zx. still gotta make crossmember and finish driveshaft. will be pic heavy stay tuned!!!

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NEWS!! The trans is in the car and man this thing is big and fat. using the hoke adapter the shifter location is about 4" back from the t5 which required trimming of the tunnel shifter hole. also the tailshaft end of the trans so big i had to trim a ear off the trans crossmember factory mounts on the bottom of the tunnel to clear the case. JTR said the center of the tailshaft should be 4" from the top of the tunnel my shifter is HARD on the bottom of the tunnel and tail shaft is 4 1/8 so should be ok with some hammer time. the reverse and saftey switch on the passenger side are on the tunnel. the stock trans mount fits on the z32 box but the crossmember needs moved back behind the mounting ears in the tunnel and im going to slot the trans mout and weld on washers to relocate the holes some to move mount reaward to match the crossmember. the drive shaft looks to be 2.5" longer than the t5 was although the r30a looks longer its not! I still need to put the new diff flange on in case its thicker and measure again and i will post length for sure with pics.

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update guys i have made a temp crossmember and made some room in the tunnel. now on to the cool stuff a buddy of mine gave me a cop car driveshaft from a crown vic that we could shorten for my z. xnke and myself took this 60ish inch monster aluminum driveshaft and used the trusty lathe to cut the weld and remove the weld yoke from one end. The total length for what i neened was 25 1/4" center to center and it ended up being 25" oh well also if you guys are using a 2.5" or smaller shaft yours will be around 26 to 26 1/4 long but this monster is 3.66 in diameter so i could not run it with the slip yoke only pulled out one inch its about 1 1/4". i got napa 1310 to 1330 u joints for this project because joey said the shaft had 1330 u joints well i was assembling the slip and diff yoke while jake (xnke) was finishing up the shaft on the lathe then we realized upon trying to put the ends on the shaft this beast has 1350 u joints not 1330. so back to napa to get the 1310 to 1350 joint that were 28.50 each OUCH! i removed the wrong u joints and replaced them with the right ones about 3pm last evening. this thing made it into the car last night around 10pm. it fits without interference all but its about half inch off the bulge were the handbrakw cable protrudes into the tunnel. hopefully the soft z32 trans mount i used dont let the trans move enough to bang the driveshaft on the floor or ill have to get the hammer out again!!!! i had a local guy make me a new clutch line about 3" longer than the stcok zx line because mine would not reach the slave. also used the lathe to cut myself out a bronze bushing for the shifter so i dont have to use the cheap looking plastic ones that came with the shifter. will be driving soon guys and laying long elevens in the street thanks to the obx l.s.d oh yeah its installed also filled everything with royal purple 75/90. more to come!!!! 

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oh by the way guys all you running this trans (fs5r30a) AKA 300zx z32 manual trans the bronze shifter bushing that everyone sells you can make your self the od is 14mm cut it for 13.98 for press fit the id is 8mm and it is THIS LONG oh you cant see my fingers? can you? well i will have to measure it and get back but the steel bushing that you remove is the length you need to cut the new one. This is if you dont want to pay 15-25 bucks for a pair of them and wait for shipping. peace!

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I forgot to mention the speedo drive from the t5 does not fit the z32 box it is way to small and just falls into the trans. for now i used a expand tite rubber plug from autozone. I think it was 1" to 1 1/16th and at almost full tight it is very snug. there is an end from a pathfinder that will work with my cable and fit hole in the trans but gotta find part number again. 

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I made a complete 3" turboback exhaust all mandrel bent with no muffler tonight took me 8 hours of cutting and fitting!  the down pipe slips into the flex joint then runs back to just before the rear sub frame were its connected with a band clamp then over the sub frame into another band clamp then exiting at the rear bumper. This way i can remove the whole exhaust and not have to cut it apart when crap needs fixed and the exhaust is in the way!!!

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well nothing bad in the trans fluid light syncro shimmer and some steel stuck to the mag on the drain plug. refilled trans noise still there started thinking pressure plate bolts? so scopeed in the bell housing and all bolts are in and all trans front cover bolts are in but still noise even out of gear reving. so removing trans AGAIN!!!! to see if clutch disc has came apart there are marks on the pressure plate like a bolt has hit it but all in random spot like something has been bouncing around in there but i cant find anything thoughts guys???

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Well she is running better than ever at 18 psi BUT this trans is making noise like i dropped a hand full of marbles it it. The noise is for sure in the trans first and second gear sound terrible but much more quiet in any other gear but what gets me is it shifts fine no grinding or crunches!! guessits got to come out and soon!!!!! I MISS MY BooST ahhhhhhh

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Well noise fixxed me and xnke ripped the box out and found a thin gear shaped steel part behind the reverse gear that was missing a c clip and was flopping around on the shaft lol. It had rounded off all its teeth and was sawing its way through the tailshaft housing sooo we removed it because we could not see a need for it other than possibly noise or vibration damping. This is where all the steel on the magnet drain plug came from. Im going to knock my clutch and flywheel off tomorrow and replace my rear main seal for it is seeping into the bell some. then she goes back together and some gopro footage per xnke!!!! 

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Well got the clutch and flywheel off thanks to my uncle and his over priced cornwell cordless lithium impact wrench!! the rear main seal has been installed with little effort so i though well im here change the pilot bearing because i could not get the old one out when the xtd clutch went in like 4 years ago. With the right tool it was an easy task to remove it and install a new one. I could not find my clutch alignment tool agghhhhh so i called orielly's and ordered a clutch kit and then went to pick it up today and when i got there the guy at the counter went to the back got the clutch kit brought it out to me. I proceeded to open it and removed the alignment tool and told him i would bring it back in the morning and then he could send the clutch kit back to the hub because i dont need it lol. The look he shot me was pure amazement i maintained my composer until i got into my car then proceeded to laugh hard!!! hopefully i can find time to reinstall the tranny in a few days. Till then guys!!!!!

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Wooooohoooo she is back!!!! I got some new 10.9 m8x1.25 by 16mm long flanged head bolts nine of them to be exact to replace the (6) 8.8 bolts for the pressure plate. Me and Xnke put the trans back in and installed the aluuminum xterra yoked cop car hybrid driveshaft with new nissan driveshaft bolts. Also the circlips i dug out of the open diff are installed in the obx diff. We used a socket with an extension to drive them in the axle holes till they fell into the groove in the obx, then reinstalled the axles. Now everything is smooth as silk no noise no vibration nothing. videos soon.

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Well guys the old red rocket has been running good the z32 gear bag has been smooth and holding up. The obx diff is working beautiful twin stripes everywhere i roll them up. I got a secret xnke and i have been keeping hahahaaaa. The ported head and intake AND p90 supercharger setup is going to end up on my zx!!! Ahhh dont remove the turbo you say?Well guess what im not instead a larger one in its place to force feed the inlet of the supercharger.......yes i said it TWINCHARGED suckers!!! Im starting a mild 5.3 swap into a 77 4 door caprice to daily. There after full stupid effort full nasty full twin noise makers for my weekend toy. Lancia did it long ago but those cars rust faster than our datsuns so this is the next best thing.

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