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Positively Displaced


Xnke

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All I'm waiting on is a chance to get down to Rivergate to pick up that gear...might come sooner than I thought, since it's not looking like my current employer is going to make payroll this week. Again.

 

Other than machining and installing the speedometer gear, the transmission is complete...you can run it as-is right now, as long as you add the proper amount of gear oil.

 

 

Back on topic here, I've got everything lined up to pull the engine saturday, drill and pin the crank, and install my new clutch and flywheel for break-in. I'll also be reworking my header for a better exit angle and a v-band clamp, which means running an open header for a few days, but that's not a big deal around here...ran one for a week once due to shipping delays. I have all my parts up front this time, so should be able to fab up the modified exhaust over a few weeknights.

 

Hardest part is going to be straightening the header flange; it's got a slight gap on #2, and burned the gasket out there. The manifold gasket will tell the tale.

 

Was hoping to have the new intake manifold ready to go on this weekend, but money is uncomfortably snug and it still needs a few things, like a fuel rail. The rail is drilled, but needs the o-ring bores polished and the mounts gently corrected with a file, that's 5-10 hours of fitting and welding to get the fuel rail finished and leak-free. I should have the intake manifold in place in the next two weeks; if all goes well, and the upgraded C-box in place before May.

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Time just got infinitely extended, I won't have the money to make the trip now that I just smashed a ford escape into a toyota highlander in my driveway. All the money I had saved up to go is now gone.

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Dang I hate that,,,, Last week running to get pizza (dad sent me to the wrong pizza hut-ordered from the wrong one), in my haste I accelerated faster than the person in front of me and they hit there brakes, I couldnt stop and hit them. Thank goodness I did not damage anything. Can't really hurt my dads 98 Tahoe, thing is a tank.

 

 

Anyone needing any fab work Contact Znke. Does good work, knowledgeable and good communication! Lets get him some money!

 

 

Hey do like others have done put up a donation request. 

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Nah, don't need any handouts. But, anyone who wants the Aisin AZ6 trans behind their L, hit me up!

 

I did get the crank pinned saturday, and the clutch changed out for the complete 350Z 250mm clutch and 14lb RB20DET flywheel. Definitely revs faster. I actually needed a LONGER throwout bearing collar, but I was able to get the short one I had to work using the adjustable pushrod for the slave cylinder...but only just. When I put the rebuilt transmission in I'll exchange the collar for the longer 240SX collar.

 

The crankshaft pinning went smoothly, no worries about that. I made a jig to fit how the reinforced crank washers fit, with a small machined register to fit the bore of the damper, and this also helps support the drill bit since the damper and crank snout are not flush with each other. Drill, ream, drive pin, done.

 

Bolted everything back up, and lost my timing indicator. Just the little pointy bit, so timing got set in a slightly less accurate fashion. Still within 1-2 degrees, though.

 

Next on the list is finishing up the transmission rebuild...my synchros should be in tomarrow afternoon, so I can get my rollerized Frontier transmission fitted up and we'll see just how strong I can make the box. I definitely don't think I'll be able to hurt it even at 10lbs out of the M62.

 

Today, I got the new exhaust fitted up; with help from a lovely assistant. 2.5" 24" long Summit Glasspack in the driveshaft tunnel, with the Summit 2.5" "welded" muffler out back. MUCH QUIETER! The glasspack is installed "backwards" with the open louvers facing the engine. Using a manometer and a huge roots blower at an undiscloseable testing location, we flow tested the glasspack both directions and the difference in total pressure drop was only 0.5"WC at the maximum volume of flow that thing can put out. To give an idea of the flow available with this machine...

 

You know the trick with the ping-pong ball and the hairdrier, that keeps the ball floating in the air? This blower can do the same trick...with a 2" diameter solid hard rubber ball.

 

It's a 6" diameter, 3 lobe unit, with rotors 18" long. Single compression stage, but serious displacement. If this machine only shows a 0.5" pressure difference, I'm sure the engine won't care which direction I put the louvers. It's MUCH much quieter with the louvers forward...and NO DRONE! I can once again hold a conversation in the car at 70MPH.

Edited by Xnke
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Good to get rid of the drone. My dads 98 2 dr Tahoe has custom exhaust with 2 Dynamax 40's dumping down in front of the rear axles. That sound bouncing off the pavement back in the truck is annoying. No room to run exhaust because of a 6" drop.

 

Your making progress. Keep pushing. You can get it done in time and put the other stuff on the back burner. 

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Had to order more transmission parts tonight. (At least I'm trying to place the order with nissanpartszone...)

 

The 3/4 shift coupler and hub were worn...and when I diassembled the hub and coupler to inspect the keys the hub is actually broken. Since they're sold as a set, a new pair will be installed when they get here.

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Trans parts won't be in until the 15th, best case, fuel pump shows up tomarrow, need to polish out the ports on the fuel rail to allow a not-quite-a-deathgrip on the injectors, and re-fit the fuel rail to the manifold. Then manifold goes for final decking, fitting of the idle control system, and fitting of the PCV system.

 

Those last two items may be a PITA, but a kludge is acceptable if it works. Right now, I need to get the intake finished, the exhaust manifold to quit leaking, and the car in a tunable, reliable condition. Then the belt can go back on, once that's done.

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Getting the injector bores honed out this evening, and re-fitting the rail to the manifold by midnight tonight. Once the rail is fitted, the short list gets much shorter...idle control and PCV.

 

Idle control will be very crude, but effective...a bleed valve on the vacuum log. I can get fancy later.

 

PCV will be controlled by a catch can, the can will have full vacuum on it all the time, and the PCV valve will be between the can and the block. This should allow the pcv vapors to condense in the can while still maintaining proper evacuation of the block.

 

The intake and the exhaust will be going to the machine shop for decking monday morning, and while they are gone the megasquirt harness will be connectorized, leaving a nice single disconnect at the firewall instead of disconnecting 16 connectors individually.

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Exhaust manifold is in the machine shop today. There will be hood clearance issues; fortunately they align precisely where I intended to chop holes in the hood and put in vents at a later date.

 

So the vent on the driver's side will get moved up. I will have a minor adventure in fiberglassing, if it looks like crap, well, it'll look like crap. But it'll go like stink, too!

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I'm confused on the "forward" and "backwards" definitions you give for the glass pack.

 

My units show "flow direction" as the openings (louvres) facing the engine. I would define that as "forward" and it cuts sound quite effectively with slightly higher restriction.

When reversing the direction (opposite OEM Stated Flow Direction) the resistance is likely lower, with sound out the pipe in back louder, but resonant "snarl" decreased on decel.

 

Drone seemed cut with both orientations, and WOT noise reduction was not my concern with installing it, but removing the "snarl popping" on decel and less backpressure was a nice addition, so figuring that, I've always specified "reversed" ...

 

 

Your testing as stated seems to be diametrically opposite in the end as your "forward" seens equivalent to my "reverse"--was the glass pack marked as to flow direction? Reverse wasn't referring to baffle cuts per se, but to stated flow direction (which has always had the scoops facing the engine in "proper installation" orientation.)

 

I got a blower that can do that to a 14# undrilled bowling ball. Look up "Atlas Copco ZA-8"! Had three in LA at a pharma company for growing cultures on antibiotics (sparger tubes)---replaced two Roots units at Navajo Refining in New Mexico...customer said "so when will we start 'em?" Start em? They're running NOW, and been fully loaded for a day now!

 

They could not believe how much quieter the Lysholm Screws were compared to those old Roots Blowers!

Edited by Tony D
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The "forwards" flow direction on mine was marked to have the louver's open ends away from the engine, or the "backwards" direction on yours.

 

Essentially, I installed it the way your describe as being the originally intended flow direction. Mine's just marked backwards from yours.

 

Going to get started doing some fiberglassing today to get the new intake manifold under the hood, a 2* mismeasurement puts the intake plenum at valve cover height at the front of the engine...where the hood is curving downward, and the valve cover needs the bulge in the hood to clear.

 

At least the hood was going to be vented there anyway. NBD. The plug will be built using the fiberglass over foam method, and then If it looks good...and only if it looks good...I'll pull a mold off it and think about making more.

Edited by Xnke
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Interesting...what brand is your muffler?

I find that marking very interesting...

Thanks for the clarification.

 

Oh, and that photo of the Novi-Supercharged 240Z I showed in Post #71?

 

I go to meet the owner and hammer out transfer details within the next 48-96 hours. Hope to have it in the yard before MSA...

 

Don't know if it will drive to the event... But it should soon be MINE!

 

Jump the flight from Bangkok in 11 hours, pick up Frank280ZX at LAX, go buy a Mercedes 380SEL, head to the house...pick up a 95 LT1, T56 Firebird Trans Am the next morning, and hopefully get the 240 that afternoon. Bank Transfer Funds Willing!

 

And then get the Turd running for MSA... Or the SC-Z! God Smiling...Both!

Edited by Tony D
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Sweet! Think you'll be able to snap a few photos of the engine bay and plumbing setup when you get it going?

 

I plan to have mine at Branson Z Fest in a month, maybe one day I'll have enough funding to make it to The Big Show.

 

The muffler is a Summit Racing cheap glasspack, heavily constructed of mild steel. I don't intend for it to last more than two years, so for 21$ it was no contest. If I get more out of it, great!

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First session of layup. 3 layers of 5.75oz cloth, in Famowood Glaze-coat tabletop epoxy. Only downside to using epoxy is that it has a 24hr cure time.

But it is less brittle, a little stronger, and it was readily available. It also doesn't attack foam, doesn't stick to packing tape, and I am well practiced at mixing it.

IMAG0570_zps2f23116d.jpg

IMAG0569_zps01e47902.jpg

I am working on a vacuum bagging method tonight, to put down the two layers of chopmat that will get sandwiched between another two layers of glass cloth. I had some bubbles between layer 1 and 2, had to go back an fix those. (easy with epoxy, not so easy with polyester resin...)

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It runs!

 

No plenum installed, IAT sensor hanging out in the breeze, zero control over the spark map due to some code issues and snorting fire out the trumpets, but I was able to drive the car around the block a few times this evening.

 

It revs FAST, and it's not even close to tuned correctly! No exhaust leaks, no intake leaks, idle vacuum about 68kpa. I could probably still run speed-density on this...

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