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Oil pan gasket


daddydonuts

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I had no luck with the super duper msa gasket, on my last attempt. Spent ALL day making sure everything was clean and straight too..Still leaks, back passenger corner...

 

But, I chose to do it "the right way" without any gasket material (like RTV) against the machined block surface, and the top of the pan.....I won't do that again..

 

I'm going to either lightly RTV both sides of the gasket now, or I've also heard that certain marine greases do NOT allow permeation of oil. So I may look into that avenue as well.

 

 

Another thought was to make a metal trim ring that surrounds the WHOLE pan, instead of halfway, as the OEM pieces run.

 

Interested to see other thoughts on the dark magic required to keep the oil on the INSIDE. :)

Edited by OldAndyAndTheSea
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When you MSA's one do you mean the competition gasket? I used that with some high temp rtv and didn't have a problem till 20k in. even then it was minimal leaking.

Yes, it was more to ship it to me than the cost of the gasket. The fel pro looks just as good for a third of the cost. I guess I will just RTV a cork one...they seem to stay together when compressed

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I used Nissan silicone sealant on my oil pan and no gasket, with no problem when I was swapping my turbo parts, onto my n/a engine.

People say not to do this but to me the problem comes from people using too much or the wrong type of sealant. The other issue is making sure the oil pan mounting surface is flat. Lay the pan face down on a flat smooth surface and tap the lip around of the pan with a a hammer. Don't move the pan, just tap around the entire pan keeping it still. Turn the pan over and tap the mounting holes with a punch to flatten it back out also. 

 

I was a Toyota dealership technician for 5 years, then became a Nissan dealership Technician in 1997. I still am a Nissan dealership Tech. If you were to ask for an oil pan gasket for one of there engines you would get a tube of silicone sealant. Nissan and Toyota recommend the use of there brand sealant to seal up timing covers, oil pans, some transmission pans, camshaft tower caps and so on. The engines are put together this was from the factory.

 

I will do this again when I rebuild another L-28 with no concerns.

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The Nissan sealant is good, I have never had engine parts leak oil after using it. You don't have to let it sit and cure, just put it back together add oil and go.

 

I had to re-seal the rear timing cover on my 97 Maxima, O-rings started leaking at 60K miles. I did the job 10 years ago and it still has not leaked from using that sealant. I have 255K miles on my Maxima now and drive it every day to work. :o)

 

The older Toyota sealant starts to set up in 5 minutes, so you have to be ready to put the parts together as soon as you start squeezing it out. Someone said Dodge has some similar quick curing sealant.

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