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My Turbo LSX Z31 Builld


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#101 nismo kid

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Posted 11 October 2016 - 03:35 PM

Here's the new belt

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#102 nismo kid

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Posted 11 October 2016 - 03:35 PM

To keep a clean look I chose to relocate my ignition coils. So I purchased Michigan Motorsports ignition coil relocation kit. Unfortunately it wasn't a plug & play install. Even though I had coils that were advertised to fit.  They didn't. Here's some pics showing the Coils not fitting. 

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#103 nismo kid

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Posted 11 October 2016 - 03:35 PM

After some quick machining they fit perfectly. It's worth noting Michigan Motorsports did issue a reimbursement to cover machining costs. I couldn't be happier with their customer service. 

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#104 nismo kid

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Posted 11 October 2016 - 03:35 PM

Now to tackle making mounting brackets for them to bolt to.   
Driver side

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#105 nismo kid

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Posted 11 October 2016 - 03:35 PM

Passenger side 

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#106 nismo kid

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Posted 11 October 2016 - 03:36 PM

Another preventative step I took was the installation of new sensors & intake manifold gaskets. Also installed new steam port gaskets. The steam port gaskets I used were Dorman #56390. New stainless steel hardware was used to secure the TPS & IAC. The stainless steel hardware specs was M4x.7mm x 12mm & M4 washers. Only thing left is to weld the IAT bung on & install new oil pressure sensor. 

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#107 nismo kid

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Posted 11 October 2016 - 03:36 PM

Last but not least was the making of the spark plug wires. I didn't want my spark plug wires to take take away from my "clean look". With that said I chose to run them behind the exhaust manifolds. Accel Extreme 9000 wires were chosen. Due to not wanting to deal with melting boots all the time. These wires have cermic boots that withstand 2000 degrees. In kit #9001C the shortest plug wire was 31.5 inches long from the base of the cermic boot. This kit doesn't come with boots for LSX coils. I used Taylor Cable #46069 boots. For extra protection DEI Titanium Protect-A-Sleeve was installed to cover the portions of wire nearest to the exhaust manifolds. 
Pics of the parts used to make my wires. I'm also posting the measurements of all the wires included in the #9001C kit. Maybe it'll help someone that stumbles on my build.

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#108 nismo kid

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Posted 11 October 2016 - 03:36 PM

Spark plug wires complete

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#109 nismo kid

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Posted 11 October 2016 - 03:36 PM

Spark plug wires installed
Driver side 

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#110 nismo kid

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Posted 11 October 2016 - 03:36 PM

Passenger side

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#111 nismo kid

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Posted 11 October 2016 - 03:37 PM

Can't even see the coils or wires. Just the way I wanted  :) Thanks again to all for stopping by. 

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#112 nismo kid

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Posted 16 February 2017 - 10:27 PM

Woo Hoo! A post holiday's update.  I hope everyone had a fantastic holiday season.  This is one of, if not the busiest time of year for me. Got the regular holidays plus my daughter's birthday. Which is exactly 1 week before Christmas. Makes for a busy finish to the year no mater how much preparation is done.  With the holidays out of the way,  I finally got sometime to spend in the garage. 
 
To kick this update off I removed the kit to gain access to my wastegates. That way I could install my wastegate springs. I paired the green & red springs which should net me around .7 Bar/10.15 Psi. 

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#113 nismo kid

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Posted 16 February 2017 - 10:27 PM

To make removal/installs go much faster, I opted for some vibrant quick disconnect V-band clamps. 

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#114 nismo kid

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Posted 16 February 2017 - 10:28 PM

Just a fair warning lube the threaded "bolt" prior to install. I normally do but I forgot to on 1 of them.  Which cause this failure the 1st time I removed it. Another tip is to weld some Stainless Steel threaded stock to replace the threaded rod portion of the V-band

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#115 nismo kid

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Posted 16 February 2017 - 10:28 PM

Figured I'd go ahead & tackle the wastegate signal lines. I hadn't had great luck with hoses or the push-to-connect stuff on previous builds. The push-to-connect tubing would melt. The rubber/silicone does the same, collapses or just blows off. Not saying it doesn't work I just hadn't had greatest luck with it. So my final decision was stainless steel tubing with an/jic fittings. The search began for tubing. All the straight sections were decently priced but shipping was outrageous. Coiled tubing was the answer to keep the cost down. Staying in spirit of budget friendly I made my own tubing straightener. Off shelf units cost upwards of 150-200$. My solution came in around 20$. It isn't the prettiest but it works. Here's some pics of it.  

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#116 nismo kid

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Posted 16 February 2017 - 10:29 PM

I knew I was going to make plenty of flares. So my cheap 37degree flare tool needed to be replaced. I originally purchased the eastwood professional flare tool & 37degree dies. It was a stout tool. Tried it out & it worked flawlessly but, seemed to leave more to be desired. Well of course a week or so later the Mastercool hydraulic flare tool went on sale. The reviews made it sounds like the best thing since sliced bread.  So I purchased & received the Mastercool hydraulic flare tool. For comparison I flared tubing with the Mastercool & Eastwood tools back to back. They both flared steel, aluminum, nicop tubing with equal amount of ease. When it comes stainless steel this is where the tools differ. The Eastwood flare tool took more time & effort to flare the the stainless steel. Flaring the stainless steel was smooth as butter with the Mastercool unit. It took almost no effort. There's no comparison when flaring stainless steel. The Mastercool tool is superior by far. It does more types of flares, & more sizes than the Eastwood unit. If you're on the fence about what flare tool to purchase buy the Mastercool hydraulic flare tool. The price is a hard pill to swallow but you'll be blown away by the Mastercool unit. With that said I sent my Eastwood back for return. I also picked Eastwood debur tool. Which I couldn't be happier with.

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#117 nismo kid

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Posted 16 February 2017 - 10:31 PM

Luckily I had switched to the quick disconnect V-band clamps, so install & removal was a breeze. I already had a rough idea where the boost solenoid would be located. With all the tooling figured out, I began to fabricate my hardlines. I used 1/4" 20ga Stainless Steel tubing. Paired with Parker 4 an/jic tube nuts & sleeves. It took a decent amount of time but, I couldn't be happier with the end result. 

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#118 nismo kid

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Posted 16 February 2017 - 10:32 PM

Next I mounted my 4 port Mac Valve & tapped my compressor housing for my boost reference signal. Tied it all together with some 4an hoses I made.

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#119 nismo kid

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Posted 16 February 2017 - 10:33 PM

I tackled the turbo feed & drain lines next. DEI Firesleeve was used to protect the turbo drain.

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#120 nismo kid

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Posted 16 February 2017 - 10:33 PM

Got the IAT & Swirl pot bungs welded up. 

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