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Longtime member has a component wiring question

wiring electrical

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#1 Lengeo

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Posted 26 March 2017 - 10:07 AM

I've been a member here for 13 years and have probably read every post (twice).

Now I have a bunch of questions so I tried to wrap them all up into one big question with the use of a wiring diagram.

Would someone with good wiring knowledge please look over my drawing and advise me if it’s OK as is or what needs to be changed.

Thanks guys!

 

1977 Datsun 280Z Restomod

2005 L33 Chevy 5.3L V8 Motor

Carb Manifold with MSD Ignition

 

Attached File  Zwiring.jpg   65.85KB   2 downloads

 


"I will not go quietly" - Don Henley
---------------------------------
Restomod 1977 280Z - Carbed L33 - ST10 4 speed


#2 NewZed

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Posted 26 March 2017 - 06:02 PM

So the question is about how to wire in a Honda push-button starter?  The oil pressure safety switch is the hardest part for me, the rest seems functional.  The safety switch looks like it's supposed to cut ignition but you show a hot wire directly from the ignition switch, bypassing the oil switch.  Can't figure out what function it would have.  It's also connected the the starter solenoid, for some reason.  Most safety switches get bypassed at Start.  Maybe I'm missing the meaning of the C and the NO and the NC.

 

I'm not an electrical expert, just another layman's view.

 

Edit - forgot to say, that is some nice illustration work.  Pro?


Edited by NewZed, 26 March 2017 - 06:03 PM.


#3 ZHoob2004

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Posted 26 March 2017 - 06:40 PM

So I think the idea with the oil pressure switch is that the normally closed terminal connects to the starter signal to provide fuel pump power when cranking and then switch over to battery power when oil pressure rises while running. This way, if the pressure falls the fuel pump loses power since you're no longer cranking.

Idea seems pretty good, but I feel like there may be a period between cranking and running where the starter is no longer energized but there also isn't enough oil pressure to trigger the switch. This may still work if it starts fast enough and fuel pressure doesn't fall too quickly.

Also as a preference thing I would take the power for the ignition switch from a more vital circuit than the cig lighter. My idea with this is to need as few circuits as possible to run the car.

Edited by ZHoob2004, 26 March 2017 - 06:47 PM.


#4 Lengeo

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Posted 27 March 2017 - 09:56 AM

NewZed: Pretty sure the starter wiring is correct. Thanks for the compliment. I'm a graphic artist. I drew the layout then cleaned up a scan and added the words with Photoshop.

 

ZHoob2004: I'm thinking the same way as you on the oil pressure switch. The switch pressure is adjustable and default is 5 lbs so should not be a problem when starting. The power for ignition is coming from the key switch. The power for the push button is coming from a fused 12v circuit (cig lighter that is already wired to that location) and is only exciting the relay. Thanks for your reply.


"I will not go quietly" - Don Henley
---------------------------------
Restomod 1977 280Z - Carbed L33 - ST10 4 speed


#5 ZHoob2004

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Posted 27 March 2017 - 05:34 PM

Only reason I mention the accessory plug circuit is I can imagine being stuck on the side of the road and needing a fuse. Lighter is usually a great place to borrow a fuse from but in this case the car wouldn't be able to start then.

#6 Lengeo

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Posted 27 March 2017 - 08:11 PM

Good thing there is a place for 4 spare fuses at the base of the panel.  :D

 

Anyone else see any problem with the circuitry before I start soldering it together?


"I will not go quietly" - Don Henley
---------------------------------
Restomod 1977 280Z - Carbed L33 - ST10 4 speed






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