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I'm curious to know why the fuel cell? Problem with the stock tank? Save weight? Certainly it will be less convenient when it come time to add gas to it. And this I know because I swapped one into an Alfa Romeo and had to pop the trunk, pull out any luggage if we were travelling, and then very carefully fill it. I had to lift the nozzle away carefully so that last drop didn't hit the outside of the tank or fall into the trunk and stink up the luggage. (I did it to save weight--and in fact stripped out almost 400 pounds from that tiny car. Made a nice difference at the track.)

 

This isn't idle curiosity. I want to consider the pros and cons, because I'm just getting started on a 280Z with a 350 and am firming up  plans for the project.

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The previous tank was a plastic jazz cell. Most of this cars time is spent on the track but it is tagged and insured. The plastic cell was always in the back of my mind.  Between  the cell and the cage for the cell,  I’m sure this set up weighs more than the stock tank. If this car was primarily a street car I would have left the stock tank. 

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When you built that engine, how close did the rear surface of the block check to being perpendicular to the crank C/L?  It should be less than 0.002" max.  You should also indicate the bellhousing to be sure the radial runout is less than 0.001".  Any more than that and you'll have shifting issues for sure.  Very imp on a T56.

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jt1 as usual you bring a level of detail and expertise that I normally get to after I’ve broken things 3-4 times.  The block is perfect. The bell housing was out of spec by a couple of thousands. I can only imagine the shifting issues this would have caused.

 

I was able to use a plumb bob, carpenters square and a finger nail file to bring it back into spec.  Again appreciate your input on this project. 

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Posted (edited)

Woah. I don't mean to hijack the thread but now I am concerned about the bell housing being out of spec?! And the Block clearances? About to sound like a total idiot....here I go:

 

I bought an Lq9, had a machine shop rehone it and I then installed new bearings. Well, I got a T-56 off a guy on craigslist a few months before. The engine ran great, everything was cool for about 20 miles and then the transmission got hard to shift and started grinding 3rd, 4th gears. Then flat out denied entry, and then the input shaft failed completely.

 

I just sent the transmission to Tick Performance. It turns out I had a complete transmission failure. "It experienced extreme heat". And yes, it was filled with trans fluid properly. Lost pretty much everything... Dropped 3,500 For new internals. I could have bought a new trans for the price, but I need this car up and running again. I just got the transmission back Christmas Eve and reinstalled. Never checked bellhousing clearances nor block clearances. Any links or help on how to do this? I have never heard of it before... I am terrified to repeat the situation. Particularly because the transmission seemed just fine at first and then completely failed. I have yet to drive the car after the reinstall and may delay this depending on the severity of these clearences...

Edited by appleslicer

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Their website is down so I cannot find the specific part number.

 

But, the "Hardened Hub" disks look like this, each friction has it's own splined hub:

Untitled-6-21.jpeg

 

The "Gear Drive" disks look like this, where there is one larger hub and the 2nd friction rides on that:

img_6287_zpsf3497a02-jpg.245491

 

I had the 6 leg 7.25" V-Drive clutch in the Evo I had for ~40k miles.  I went through a set of hardened hub discs every 8-10k or so, while the gear drive lasted a bit longer. That car made 897hp/715tq to the tires and the clutch held fine.

 

There is certainly a learning curve to that clutch and the hydraulic TOB, especially with the race compound friction discs.
 

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22 hours ago, appleslicer said:

Woah. I don't mean to hijack the thread but now I am concerned about the bell housing being out of spec?! And the Block clearances? About to sound like a total idiot....here I go:

 

I bought an Lq9, had a machine shop rehone it and I then installed new bearings. Well, I got a T-56 off a guy on craigslist a few months before. The engine ran great, everything was cool for about 20 miles and then the transmission got hard to shift and started grinding 3rd, 4th gears. Then flat out denied entry, and then the input shaft failed completely.

 

I just sent the transmission to Tick Performance. It turns out I had a complete transmission failure. "It experienced extreme heat". And yes, it was filled with trans fluid properly. Lost pretty much everything... Dropped 3,500 For new internals. I could have bought a new trans for the price, but I need this car up and running again. I just got the transmission back Christmas Eve and reinstalled. Never checked bellhousing clearances nor block clearances. Any links or help on how to do this? I have never heard of it before... I am terrified to repeat the situation. Particularly because the transmission seemed just fine at first and then completely failed. I have yet to drive the car after the reinstall and may delay this depending on the severity of these clearences...

 

Appleslicer-

 

First you must understand that Mark and I are old friends.  We both are subject to over engineered solutions just because we think it's cool.  This leads to ongoing jokes about stuff like "I checked the oil and it was a little low so I went ahead and overhauled the engine, used a new callies crank and had the heads max ported.  Maybe the oil will be ok now".  A lot of people on HybridZ call it "while I'm at it" disease.

 

Generally trans alignment isn't a problem with T56's and LS engines, I wouldn't even worry about it.  It's difficult to check with the T56 bellhousing arrangement, but I've never known of anyone having trouble.  I used to run a TKO in my car, and they are much more sensitive to alignment than 56's.  I posted a write up about centering the bellhousing several years ago if you want to hunt it up.

 

Sorry to cause you to have second thoughts.  If the trans went together smoothly and the clutch works OK, I wouldn't worry about it.  Most likely you just got a worn out trans,  Been there/done that too.

 

John

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John

I was going to post a tutorial on my trans alignment procedure. 

 

Brama

thanks for the link. Didn’t know about those discs. Looks cool. Maybe next time I change the oil I’ll look into using those. 

 

Apple

jt1 knows his stuff. 

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Thanks for the reply. I totally get the joke. My buddy and I were that way, but now we are just hypersensitive. I swear I find out something new we should have done every day!

 

I guess the issue of alignment is mostly a guaranteed issue if you use an aftermarket bell housing. Particularly Quick Time Performances'.

 

Lastly, just want to note that my Stage 2 rebuild from Tick Performance is running smoothly. My buddy drove the car about 7 hours straight yesterday while I was tending to another matter. It's nice and smooth and not difficult to shift in any way as some people claim it does with bronze pads. So if you are considering a rebuild in the future, in all seriousness, I would try giving them a call.

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