PUSHER Posted June 4, 2005 Share Posted June 4, 2005 I'm trying to transfer over the stub axle and bearings from one strut housing to another. I've gotten the stub axle nut and stub axle out and only have the bearings left. Is there an easy way to get the bearings out besides taking it to a shop? Or my other plan is to just buy new bearings, but what else do I need since I cant get the original off? Do I just need a outerbearing, spacer, rubber seal, innerbearing? Could someone give me more technical names then spacer or rubber seal so I dont have to spend a couple hours explaining what I need from autozone. Thanks. This is on a 76 280z rear strut housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSHER Posted June 4, 2005 Author Share Posted June 4, 2005 Alright I searched and found that removing the wheel bearings is gonna be a pita. So, what are the parts that I need? My other strut housing is completely bare and all I have off the old one is the stub axle, the other side of the stub axle and a nut that ill replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 4, 2005 Share Posted June 4, 2005 You should have the stub, the spacer, maybe a copper washer, the wheel bearings (inner and outer) the seal, the companion flange, a washer, and a nut. The spacer is the big thing. You're not going to find it at the auto parts store. The strut has a letter stamped on it that I think corresponds with the spacer you need. The letter is on the front end of the strut right around the bearing area, on the inside about an inch inside of the backing plate. Every strut I've had has been stamped "B". The spacer will also be stamped "B" as well. Some of the struts used a copper spacer washer when the factory spacer wasn't big enough. What the spacer does is to hold the bearings apart. so that the outer races sit in the strut housing, and the inner races contact the spacer. If it is too short, then there is way too much pressure on the inner races, and I guess you'll know if you need the extra copper washer if you put it back together and the stub axle won't turn. The nut is the peened nut that is a PITA to get off. If you use the 280ZXT nuts you don't have to peen them, so it will be easier to get the nut off again if you ever have to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSHER Posted June 4, 2005 Author Share Posted June 4, 2005 So any way to get either the inner or outer bearing off so I can get to the stuff inside short of disecting it with a plasma cutter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 4, 2005 Share Posted June 4, 2005 Yeah, you remove the peened nut then drive out the stub axle. The peened nut is kind of a PITA, but we talked about that in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101668. Then you need to push the stub axle out. I drove mine out with an air hammer, but if you don't have one you can use a big lead hammer or a slide hammer (slide hammer is going to be impossible without the strut mounted to the car I think). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudeboy Posted June 4, 2005 Share Posted June 4, 2005 Pusher, Check this Canada Z club page. I did my suspension (bushings,springs and shocks) with this site and factory manual. Print the pages and bring to the garage !!!! Good luck http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html If you go back to tech tips, there is a front bearing page also with picutres. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSHER Posted June 4, 2005 Author Share Posted June 4, 2005 Right after I posted that thread I went outside, stuck a crowbar inside of it and hammered the outter wheel bearing out, inner still wont budge, but atleast I got the stuff inside. So now all I need to get is an inner bearing. I didnt really encounter any rubber seals, so where is that and where does it go? There might be one on the outside of the innerbearing I cant tell if its part of it or not though. EDIT: omfg thank you for that site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudeboy Posted June 4, 2005 Share Posted June 4, 2005 That site will save you a couple of dollars. If I can ask, are those Diamond Steel wheels on the white Z ? My reason for asking, I am thinking about buying a set of Black steel wheels. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSHER Posted June 5, 2005 Author Share Posted June 5, 2005 Diamond racing wheels, yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 ...Some of the struts used a copper spacer washer when the factory spacer wasn't big enough... FYI Jon; The copper washer is positioned directly under the companion flange on _top_ of the inner wheel bearing (not underneath it) so it does not add to the spacer length. So what does the copper washer accomplish? Well, according to Nissan Technical Service Bulletin #TS72-06 (dated Jan 12, 1972), the copper washer was added to “absorb metallic noise originating in the rear axle of some 240Z’s.†It’s interesting to note that Nissan recommends that the tightening torque of the bearing locknut should be reduced from 180 to 240 ft-lbs to 95 to 125 ft-lbs when the copper washer was added. There’s more. Nissan Technical Service Bulletin #TS74-091A (dated Oct 3, 1974) states “the copper washer has been eliminated from the 280Z modelsâ€. The tightening torque of the bearing locknut was reinstated to be from 180 to 240 ft-lbs. No explanation of why the washer was no longer needed is given. Based on this, I would conclude that if you come across the copper washer during disassembly, then you can remove it and torque the bearing locknut to the “traditional†value of 180 to 240 ft-lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSHER Posted June 8, 2005 Author Share Posted June 8, 2005 I pray this is my last question, but, where do I get a new nut? autozone/carquest do not have access to them and a dealer is a bit away for a nut. Anyone know any online places? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCZ Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 Get the stub axle nut from your Nissan dealer. Get the one for the 280ZX turbo. It is the same size and self-locking so you don't have to peen it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ampsman Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 how wide are those wheels and how much backspacing? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest blue Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 (edited) New Nissan Part Numbers for looking up rear wheel bearings and assembly parts at the dealer: - Inner rear wheel bearing: 43215-E4100 - Outer rear wheel bearing (with built in seal) 43210-E4100 - Inner rear wheel bearing seal: 43232-E4100 - Stub Axle Nuts (280ZX type w/o peen: 43262-W1200 SFK Bearing Numbers: - Outer: GRW-117 - Inner: GRW-116 Edited December 16, 2010 by blue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 haha, Looks like fun. I have all mine out also and I gotta admit these bearings add up super fast in retail pricing. Why don't you just order the nut online? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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