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Ford V8 Conversion Writeup


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#21 Dudeboy

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Posted 24 May 2008 - 02:18 PM

This was some great reading. I am doing a LS1 swap, however I picked up some valuable information I will consider with my swap. Good information and detail.
Glenn A.
1977 280Z V8 in the works !!!
2004 Corvette Coupe

#22 axman61

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Posted 17 June 2008 - 12:14 PM

Did you consider the factory 'shorty headers'? I have a set lying around, is why I ask. Also, do you think that without too much abuse the diff in a '75 model would hold up?

#23 Z8driver

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Posted 19 June 2008 - 06:49 PM

I did wander around the wrecking yards to try to find a good pair of cast iron headers. I couldn't find a decent one for the right side though. With regard to the standard '75 Z differential, I would guess you would be fine if you didn't get wild about tire size and drive somewhat rationally.

#24 axman61

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Posted 20 June 2008 - 03:26 AM

Thanks for the reply. What color is your car? I didn't see the color name in the write-up. Oh yes, will the early bumpers like yours fit the later cars?

#25 slyhog22056

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Posted 20 June 2008 - 05:51 AM

have bought 3 different sets of the shorty headers, seem to dump in the right place but wont know till install time. Biggest problem is they seem to be pointing to the firewall and the spread across the exhaust bores is different by about 1/4", got a torch and welder to fix that though but will find out later about the firewall problem. I still have the cast iron manifolds if anyone can use them.
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#26 jeffsilverz

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Posted 24 June 2008 - 08:59 AM

Nice job on the conversion. I'm in the middle of putting in a Fuel Injected '89 5.0L GT motor into my 72.
I've done my mounts differently than yours and I have one question regarding your crossmember. How did you mount it to the frame rails? No where in the write up do you say how this attaches to the car. I've noticed in other peoples write ups and in pics of this type of mount that the means of att. is not evident. You must have put some thought into this as squeezing the box frame is just going to collapse it.
Thanks in advance for the info
Jeff

#27 axman61

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Posted 25 June 2008 - 03:52 AM

Not to speak for Z8Driver, but in this forum I've seen that when bolting the crossmember to the frame rails, regardless of the origin of the crossmember, many drill over-sized holes and insert tubing through the frame rail. In this manner the bolt may be tightened without collapsing the frame rail.

#28 Z8driver

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Posted 25 June 2008 - 07:34 AM

Jeff - Good question about mounting the motor cradle to the frame since you're right, the frame is thin material. That's an interesting approach mentioned by axman61 about using a spacer through the frame - I hadn't thought of that.

I ended up with three bolts on each side of the cradle, but only two are of value. One of them goes down through the frame near the spot where the compression rods mount to the frame. The frame is much stronger in this area - the metal is doubled up underneath so you can tighten the bolts without crushing the frame. In the front, the cradle bolts directly to the crossmember that carries the steering rack, and also had the original motor mounts for the Datsun motor. Between these bolts, it seems strong enough.

With regard to axman61's question about the color, it's a gray used in late model Mazda 3s. As I recall, it is called Mica.

Brian

#29 280zStang

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Posted 25 June 2008 - 08:15 AM

well i have an 83 mustang and im in need of an L28E oil pan, i have my Z motor in my Mustang, but if anybody can help that'd be awsome, ill have pics real soon.

#30 jeffsilverz

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Posted 25 June 2008 - 11:20 AM

Brian
Thanks for the answer! I know it sounded like a dumb question....but you know:icon12:
I've actually used axemans technique a few years ago when I ripped the sway bar mounts out of my frame rails during an autocross.
My mounts are somewhat unorothodox I guess because I'm using the stock type headers from the Mustang GT and the ford motorsport oil filter adapter to turn the filter to the front. I fabricated my own mounts which bolt to the datsun crossmember. I removed the tower off the drivers side and put the mount there and fabricated a piece from heavy wall tubing to get me up to the where it bolts to the motor. The passenger side is simpler in that I just extended the mount forward and installed a new mount on the existing tower on the crossmember. Of course the mounts are reinforced in (hopefully) the right places and its pretty stout material I've used. Nothing is running yet, so we'll see how it works.

#31 frosty383

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Posted 16 August 2008 - 02:48 PM

this is one hell of a great write up!, I,m surprised I have not found this considering all the researching I do on this site. Anyways I currently have a SBC V8 260Z (i,m including some pics) but this is what I have been llooking for to put together a clean 280Z with a roller 5.0 HO carbed motor and a 5 speed. The reason I would like to go with a 280 instead of a 240 or 260 is cause the availability and price of the latter. anyways great write up. thanks
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By speed38374 at 2008-08-06
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By speed38374, shot with KODAK DX4530 ZOOM DIGITAL CAMERA at 2008-08-06

#32 lilredZ

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Posted 17 November 2008 - 08:45 AM

What headers (diameter?) did you use?

#33 Z8driver

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Posted 20 November 2008 - 10:37 AM

I used Patriot H8427 headers. They have 1 5/8" tubes (oval near the head) going into a 2 1/2" collector. They are nicely made. It's a little disconcerting how the left one appears to be pointing into the motor, but that can be corrected with a little angle on the weld at the collector mating connection.

#34 Guest_cobra_4_*

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Posted 20 November 2008 - 12:53 PM

Wow that is one impressive build!!!

#35 Gostlrs

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Posted 07 December 2008 - 07:22 PM

how much difference is there for a 280zx

#36 slyhog22056

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Posted 06 January 2009 - 06:09 AM

Well started to put my front crossmember in and found out that my 75 z isnt the same, the cad drawings say the top of the angle should be 2 1/2" well it was too wide, after powder coating now i had to go and cut off 3/8" on each side the outside width of my z is 29 1/2" guys please measure the outside dimensions before you have to cut and then re powdercoat everything. And the measurements for the cad drawings are from bottom of angle that sits on the frame to the bottom of the support are 9.75" after measuring mine i had to change this too as i only have 8.5" from top of frame to the bottom of factory crossmember and i didnt want this one to hang below factory crossmember.
http://www.lainefami...on_Drawings.pdf
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#37 V8INtheZ

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Posted 07 January 2009 - 08:20 AM

Yes the OP car is a 240z, and the CADs work for the 240z's. The Late 260z and all 280z cars are different in many ways.
1974 Datsun 260z-EFI 5.0L HO T5 Project
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#38 slyhog22056

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Posted 07 January 2009 - 09:03 PM

Yeah i just found out for myself tonight, put the engine for a test fit... no good news, wil have to remake the crossmember as it isnt deep enough, motor sits 3" too high in the front, i apoligize for making any accusations to anyone about it being wrong. will have to cut out the rear section of the regular crossmember between the rack mounts, motor wont go far enough back to drop below the crossmember. will have to make something to fit around the mounting points in front of the rack, plenty of 1/4" angle and flat iron laying around. headers i have rub the sides of the original frame so i will have to do something else there too and ..of course steering rod wont fit around the headers... will have to beat a few places in the trans tunnel too or just cut it out and patch it back together after wards....1 question though.. with the car sitting flat isnt the front of the motor supposed to be inclined about 3 to 5 degrees?? You know how it is once you hit 50+ i dont actually remember what it is supposed to be.
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#39 Trevor

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Posted 08 January 2009 - 06:42 AM

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Ideally, the angles between the crank / transmission output shaft and driveshaft, and between the driveshaft and the differential pinion will be equal and opposite.
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#40 74_5.0L_Z

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Posted 08 January 2009 - 03:25 PM

The best explanation of driveshaft angles that I have seen is provided by Pete Paraska (a premier HybridZ member) on his site:

http://alteredz.com/drivelinemods.htm




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